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Projects Paint stripping to bare nekkid metal

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Katuna, Oct 8, 2015.

  1. Katuna
    Joined: Feb 25, 2005
    Posts: 1,822

    Katuna
    Member
    from Clovis,Ca.

    What would be the best product to use to get through all the layers of this? The PO had started to strip it by just sanding it down. I'm looking for a better alternative. I believe my hat is the original paint but I don't know what the green is. Trim tag says Sultana White which is what I'm going back with.

    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1444340313.405450.jpg
     
  2. Aircraft/paint stripper,sand blasting or water stripping.

    The paint stripper will be the cheapest way but more labor intensive. HRP
     
  3. 56premiere
    Joined: Mar 8, 2011
    Posts: 1,445

    56premiere
    Member
    from oregon

    I just had my 54 chevy blasted with water and glass. It was the nicest I have had done as compared to plastic and chemical.The metal was a perfect profile for the epoxy primer and all traces of paint and rust was gone. It is messy in the car but not as bad as the plastic was. They put a rust preventer in the water and also after for the rinse. Guaranteed not to flash for 72 hours .There was no need to wipe off the inhibitor before paint. That was per the ppg rep and the men who blasted it. Cost 650.
     

  4. 49ratfink
    Joined: Feb 8, 2004
    Posts: 18,820

    49ratfink
    Member
    from California

    which do you have more of, time or money? the best way is to have it blasted one way or another, I think I like glass bead blasting. the cheapest way is paint stripper and sanding.
     
  5. Bandit Billy
    Joined: Sep 16, 2014
    Posts: 12,257

    Bandit Billy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I purchased the Eastwood double blaster, sand in one tank, baking soda in the other. I sand blast the frames and soda blast the bodies, works great and doesn't harm glass or chrome (so they claim). I restore the occasional vette and soda works great on fiberglass. Also environmentally friendly, soda just messes with the ph level in ground water a bit.
     
  6. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,458

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    And, if it isn't prepared properly a soda blasted surface will not take paint well either. Or can cause problems later after painting.
     
    Paint Guru likes this.
  7. Katuna
    Joined: Feb 25, 2005
    Posts: 1,822

    Katuna
    Member
    from Clovis,Ca.

    Most definitely have more time than money! I didn't specify because it didn't cross my mind but I'm looking for a liquid solution. This is a project thats waiting in the wings and will be awhile before I get to it. Figured I could do a piece at a time. It's nasty business but I don't have the coin to get it media blasted.
     
  8. seb fontana
    Joined: Sep 1, 2005
    Posts: 8,428

    seb fontana
    Member
    from ct

    Razor blades will work on large relatively flat surfaces..:)
     
  9. 49ratfink
    Joined: Feb 8, 2004
    Posts: 18,820

    49ratfink
    Member
    from California

    one thing for sure if it is "waiting in the wings" just leave it alone until you are ready to do the whole job at once.
     
  10. Paint Guru
    Joined: Sep 9, 2015
    Posts: 522

    Paint Guru
    Member
    from Bowdon, GA

    $70 variable speed buffer 8" pad for psa sandpaper and 8" 80 or 180 sandpaper. It will take no time to strip off.
     
    LeoH likes this.
  11. Katuna
    Joined: Feb 25, 2005
    Posts: 1,822

    Katuna
    Member
    from Clovis,Ca.

    I don't have THAT much time! Besides, holding that little blade makes my finner tips hurt.
     
  12. treb11
    Joined: Jan 21, 2006
    Posts: 3,940

    treb11
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

  13. I have more time than money also. I like to use my 8 inch "mud hog' DA sander with 40 grit to start. Then switch to 80 grit on my 6 inch DA sander to make it pretty. The DA sander is much more forgiving than a grinder( it doesn't gouge the metal and removes old paint real well.
    I tried the soda blaster route once and had paint adhesion problems. My fault I'm sure for improper prep, but still. It was a mess. Luckily it was underside of a deck lid.
     
  14. mikhett
    Joined: Jan 22, 2005
    Posts: 1,515

    mikhett
    Member
    from jackson nj

    IM with BUGGUTS in this one.I hate chemical stripper residue! I use my mud hog and 80 grit. If you have money hire a pro stripper like the other guys but I like having control over what im going to paint.
     
  15. Katuna
    Joined: Feb 25, 2005
    Posts: 1,822

    Katuna
    Member
    from Clovis,Ca.

    Maybe I'll just chemically strip the front fenders and hood given that they're in the condition they're in. I could sand out the rest of the car.

    It's a shame he tried sanding it down as the paint wasn't that bad. Every panel except the roof has been sanded on.
     
  16. Paint Guru
    Joined: Sep 9, 2015
    Posts: 522

    Paint Guru
    Member
    from Bowdon, GA

    It will take you longer to chemically strip and more harmful to you, than using any type 8" sander/buffer. I have stripped well over 50 cars, and I can strip most any car in 1 day with a cheap ass buffer and a 8" pad. Also with a buffer you don't need a air compressor. The only reason you would need to use chemical stripper is if the paint kept clogging the paper, not allowing the sandpaper to work properly.
     

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