got a 58 Chrysler 392 hemi, and need to use a center sump oil pan - putting it into a 57 Dodge Royal. I've gor a pan, intact inside, just a couple small dents, but has a bit of corrosion in one spot about the size of a 1/2 dollar. Doesn't penetrate to inside. Was thinking of body solder - the higher temp lead free type to repair before painting. Any other ideas? Has anybody had to repair a pan with this issue? Can't find a pan for this application very easy. Rear sump pans are readily available. Got to use center sump.
In a pinch, with intent of temperary repair I've used 2 part epoxy. This was perforated with pin holes and still on the vehicle. Been leak free that way for 3 years on a daily driver. Could always weld a patch in too. I think I have a center sump hemi oil pan. I can look tomorrow.
thanks. Worse case, I'd still like to fix it, and paint it. Thought that body solder might be a better option than epoxy or JB weld. No perforations, just need to fix the outer surface.
If it isn't leaking what are you worried about? Clean and paint and you are ready to go. Smooth with solder if it makes you feel better.
If the pan is off the car, the best way to fix it is to weld in a patch panel just like you would a fender. Be easy on the welding and you will be fine. Fill it with water to test then prime and paint. Good luck, -Abone.
if its rust sand if off ( or blast the pan with glass bead ) and then see how it is , on the inside of the pan it can be a tin foil thickness and look good which mean a proper repair is in order ( mid 70's gm pans do this ) , or it just can be a bunch of rust that expanded on the outside and didn't compromize anything . in that case clean it up, steam it or tank it to get the oil off the metal on the outside,smooth it out and prime and paint .
I would err on the side of caution here. Oil at operating temperatures is mighty thin and seeks out any crack or pinhole. Oil is the blood of your engine - if it leaks out and the engine runs dry ..... Well we know the answer. I struck a similar situation on a Dodge 325 rebuild and took the step to repair the sump to ensure no chance of any leak. While a "repair" at this time may seem OK please bear in mind that a bump of any kind could weaken the thin metal area creating a crack or hole from which the oil will simply flow through. The rigours of an engine running in a chassis on the road subjects the whole package to stresses and strains which could create an area of metal fatigue in the thin area
Knock it out and braze the cracks, that's what we did at the dealership without issue. Never any rework over many years.
Main step is to eliminate/neutralize the corrosion first.. pan repairs are easy to do. Do it right the first time as it sucks when you have to drop the pan out of the car to repair it!
The Jalopy Journal
