Mopar flathead 6 motors- whats to be expected

I will try to get that number in a pic.

Side note, I know the motor is not original (1950 Plymouth) So I found a rebuilt 230. The code is T214-4617 can someone tell me if this would have come from a 47 WD-15 or was it only used in the power wagon? Would this make a good lightly modified build? (increased compression, dual intake, dual exhaust)

 

T = Truck but what application I can't say. Military power wagons typically had water proof ignitions and other extreme use items. Might have some forged stuff inside. There is a site that will tell you what that number came out of but I can't recall it. It should be a 230. I have a 56 230 Plymouth engine in mine and withthe modes you mentioned is a pretty stout set up.

 

So I will ask a few silly questions, forgive me but we all have to learn somehow. Please be descriptive, like you are teaching someone who has never seen one of these over the internet (cuz that is what you are doing)
1. What is the starting procedure for a 1947 Dodge truck?
2. What is the shift pattern for the original 3 speed?
3. What are the 4 knobs in the lower middle of the dash? the writing is gone.

 

Does you truck have a stomp switch to engage the starter? Cold start or hot start
column shift or on the floor, picture of the knobs would be nice, but they are usually related to heater defrost and maybe aux lights like fog lamps.

 

Was able to get a picture of the disti numbers


The truck has a stomp switch above the gas peddle. 3 speed on the floor
The pull/buttons I am talking about are at the bottom of the dash in the middle, one is choke, one is lights, not sure of the other two.

 

So the guy I am buying it from says he has started it a bunch of times, with a 12volt battery. I don't believe it has been converted to 12 volts, what kind of damage is he doing using a 12 volt battery in this truck?

 

none! probably the other knobs are heater/defroster related.

Cold start Pull the choke out full, step on the gas pedal to set the high idle. Heel on gas pedal about 1/3 open truck in neutral, engage starter with your toe. When it starts let of the gas,adjust the choke to get an even idle. Engine at operating temp, heel on gas pedal about 1/3 open engage starter with toe.

Three speed floor shift is non synchro, read up on double clutching for shifting up and down. Low is bottom left, reverse top left, second top right, high bottom right.

6v starters will work fine on 12 volts. you don't have a solenoid (well err your right foot toes) they probably don't care about voltage either. Only damage might be to the coil if he was feeding 12 V to it for prolonged periods, if not no worry. While we are on the subject you know the truck is wired for POSITIVE ground right? Primary battery cables should be minimum 1 gauge, not these whimpy 12 volt things they sell today. If you have thin battery cables, get over to your Tractor Supply or similar and get some 6 V cables.

 

All good info, I remember double clutching an old international on a farm I grew up on so that will be fun again. The last knob in that bank of 4 says throttle, what is that for? As for the positive ground, I will do some research on that. Awesome info for a newbie, Thanks for the patience.

 

The throttle cable is connected to your carb, after you start your car you can pull the throttle cable out to set rpms, lock it by twisting clockwise and take your foot of the gas!
Then the car can warm up by itself or you can use it as a crude cruise control on the road.

 

You can start a 6v vehicle on 12v, be sure you turn off lights, radio, heater etc.

Do not run it too long or you could overheat the coil. 10 - 20 minutes is ok. Remember the battery will not charge, you will need to charge it up after.

 

So good to find easy guys who don't mind answering basic questions. My goal is to keep the truck on the road as a survivor and possibly replace the non original motor with one that is correct for a truck of that year. I ordered a few parts for the interior to make it a little nicer "Happy wife (in passenger seat) happy husband in drivers seat" I am also missing two small hub caps in the rear. They are the small moon type with "Dodge" written in script. anyone know the name I should be using when searching for these, or where to go?

 

Andy Bernbaum robert's motorparts Egay

 

This might help you.

http://t137.com/registry/help/otherengines/tengines.html

 

I was able to score a 230CI out of a 46 power wagon. It has the 4 speed transmission. My question is the 4 speed any better then the three speed at getting more MPH? I am looking at cruising around 55-60

 

No, both have 1:1 top gear. P wagon is a 3/4 ton 4 wheel drive chassis, that trans would be a bear to fit and not work any better than the 3 speed except it would have granny low, if you want to tow a steam shovel up the rocky mountains the hard way - straight up.

Should handle 55 - 60 MPH ok with stock gearing. Try it out. If you find it too "buzzy" you could install different rear axle or oversize tires.

 

Awesome thanks, the 4 speed will go on ebay to pay for some more new parts.

 

The 4 speed would be advantageous if you increased the rearend ratio for higher speeds. Given that the little six isn't exactly a race engine, that granny gear would become a useful 1st gear if the final drive ratio was higher, which would essentially turn that 1:1 high gear into something closer to a mild overdrive.

 

I dunno about this, I have a Mopar 8 1/4 diff, with 3.23 gears and an Acme T 98 4 spd trans, and with this combo, 1 st gear is still too low for any use other than stump pulling.

 

top gear is still 1 to 1 how does starting out in a "work the field" gear effect the high gear?

 

It just lets you run higher gears in the rear end for freeway running capability and still be able to pull off the line quick. Put a set of 2.70/1 rear gears in the car with some tall rear tires and get the RPMs down low at highway speeds and still be able to pull away from a stop light without slipping the clutch to death or bogging/lugging the engine in first gear.

 

except the truck 1st gear is only good for about 10 mph. Even tall tires isn't going to change that much.

 

Howdy all, new guy here. I have 50 De Soto S-14. It has the 230 flathead six and the motor was rebuilt about 2 years ago. It runs strong, doesn't smoke or leak. I love the flathead, not such a big fan of the old fluid drive transmission. In the spirit of making a good family cruiser, driving it in parades and such, I am wanting to upgrade to a real automatic transmission, and I would like to keep the transmission Mopar. I read almost every entry of this thread looking for something solid about doing this conversion. I don't have a lot of money in the budget for experimenting with different set ups so I am asking your help. What is the best transmission to use for ease of conversion. What will be required for the conversion?, i.e. adapter, cross members, etc... There is quite a bit of knowledge on this site and I am hoping you will share. Thank you.

 

Nix50, Wilcap has a few different adaptors to allow late model auto's behind the sidevalve 6's however in doing so you loose your parking brake so then you need to fit a late model rear axle...........however Dodge & Plymouth used the smaller 6, 23" long with both PowerFlite and Torqueflite Autos up till 1960 and they maybe able to be used, tho you would have to do a bit of fiddling regarding the fitment, but at least these Mopar trans will have the parking brake included........dunno if this helps...........andyd

 

Thanks andydodge, yes, that does help. Fortunately there is a good classic car salvage yard nearby, and he is well stocked in old mopar, I will go see what he has available. I looked at Wilcap's website and I saw an adapter for Chevy transmissions, but nothing for mopar. Perhaps a phone call would reveal more. However, I would prefer to keep the parking brake so I will look into the PowerFlite and Torqueflite. It will likely be a winter project but I will post what I learn when completed.

 

Talk to Gary 73RR on here he makes adaptors to mate the 904 on to your 6 banger...don't put that chevy crap in your desoto.

 

Thanks for the feedback Frankie47, couldn't agree with you more about putting Chevy parts on the Desoto. I have owned 4 GM's over the years and everyone one of them made me walk home or call for a ride. I developed what I call a "bowtie allergy". Been bowtie free for about 15 years now.

 

I'm telling on myself here, shoulda done a little more research before I stated that my Desoto has a 230. It has the 25 in. head so must be a 236. I.m learnin'.

 

The Plymouth flathead six was such a terrible engine that Lee Petty only won six NASCAR races with them.

 

Well, finally decided it was time to make an account after I have been reading a half dozen flathead articles and join in on the discussion. I have a 50 dodge truck that is getting a built motor. Bored .060 over, decked the head another .060 to increase compression, have new rod bearings, crank bearings, pistons, rings, head bolts, water pump, custom camshaft by edgy, valves, lifters, will be making my own intake/exhaust manifolds. Hoping for around the 150 hp mark, if I do better than that I will be very happy. This motor is a 218 out of a 47 plymouth. Couldn't find a 230 at the time. Ofcourse after I have most of the parts a 230 falls into my lap and is what is in the truck now. At least I assume it is a 230, came out of a clark airport tug. Should probably grab the measuring tape and measure the head but that wasn't a priority at the time of the engine swap(overnight at a race track)

Anyways, if anyone has some advice on things let me know, I am young and inexperienced.

 

Nix50 I recommend you learn to love the Fluid Drive especially if you are on a budget. There is no other automatic that is easy and cheap to fit. And the difference is not enough to be worth all the work and $$$$ cost.

Basic driving technique based on factory recommendations, owner's manual and years of practice.

Start engine with trans in neutral and handbrake on. Let it warm up a minute. When it is idling slow step on the clutch, shift into High, release the clutch. You should be sitting still with the trans in gear. Release the hand brake, step on the gas and take off.

When you get going 14MPH or more lift off the gas. You should hear a soft *click-clack* from below the floor boards. You are now in high gear, step on the gas and go someplace.

When you come to a stop use the brakes and ignore the trans same as any automatic. Take off, lift off above 14MPH etc.

If you boot it, the trans will kick down at any speed below 50 just like an automatic.

Use Low range for slow driving, taking off with a heavy load, towing a trailer, driving in deep snow, mud or sand.

Same as High range but you can shift up at 6MPH.

You can start off in Low and shift to High manually using the clutch. Not necessary or recommended unless you need extra power taking off.

If the trans does not work correctly they are usually easy and cheap to fix. Most faults involve frayed or broken wiring, low on oil, engine idle speed too fast. The transmission is simple, rugged and seldom causes trouble. The Fluid Drive is a sealed unit with 1 moving part and normally lasts the life of the car with no attention, other than topping up the fluid every 10000 miles. Transmission oil should be changed every 10000 miles.

Use tractor oil, TDH type, ISO22 or ISO32 grade in the Fluid Drive and in the transmission. You can get it at Walmart, farm stores and auto parts stores.