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Projects Model t or a on chevy chassis???

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by dkWayfarer50, Nov 15, 2014.

  1. dk,

    The boattail speedster is on the "termites and bowties" thread- if you can locate a replacement radiator/shell, that would be a GREAT candidate for a speedster build!
     
  2. dkWayfarer50
    Joined: Aug 18, 2014
    Posts: 185

    dkWayfarer50
    Member
    from Denmark

    Both radiator and shell comes with the chassis. It´s a complete car exept for the body. The fenders, doors, runningboards and everything is there.
     
  3. volvobrynk
    Joined: Jan 30, 2011
    Posts: 3,587

    volvobrynk
    Member
    from Denmark

    Something along the Lines of: what exatly did I buy!

    Such a cool build, and so much good Info. Seems lost in a way, but I try to find it later.
     
  4. dkWayfarer50
    Joined: Aug 18, 2014
    Posts: 185

    dkWayfarer50
    Member
    from Denmark

    The original Danish registration papers and the radiator and shell. It´s not rust you can see on the shell, it´s just been sprayed with some kind of tectyl.


    upload_2014-11-18_20-0-48.png

    upload_2014-11-18_20-2-39.png upload_2014-11-18_20-1-43.png
     
  5. woodbutcher
    Joined: Apr 25, 2012
    Posts: 3,310

    woodbutcher
    Member

    :D:eek: Looks like this thread is going to get real interesting.
    Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
    Leo
     
  6. dkWayfarer50
    Joined: Aug 18, 2014
    Posts: 185

    dkWayfarer50
    Member
    from Denmark

    Oohh crap. The man who owns the Olds chassis, just called and he does not know if he will sell anyway, because he has found the body belonging to the chassis, but I know before the weekend. Fortunately, I have both Ford A chassis and Chevrolet chassis, but they require MUCH more work. I attached some pics of the 31 Chevy chassis.

    upload_2014-11-19_15-58-17.png
    upload_2014-11-19_15-59-20.png
     
  7. It's never a stupid idea to use something you have if you can make it work. It's what makes your project unique.


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  8. volvobrynk
    Joined: Jan 30, 2011
    Posts: 3,587

    volvobrynk
    Member
    from Denmark

    If you got to much in that build you are gonna throw out, I might be interested.

    Your piece of junk looks better then my piece of junk. :D
    And yours look more like a 29.
    Mines a 28, with no room for a straight six, between 1 and 2 crossmember and there is no "ears" on yours for the gearbox to fit between.
     
    Last edited: Nov 19, 2014
  9. dkWayfarer50
    Joined: Aug 18, 2014
    Posts: 185

    dkWayfarer50
    Member
    from Denmark

    I never throw anything out;) The good thing with the Chevy frame instead of the Olds is the price. It would be way faster to use the already restored Olds. But maybe it would be more fun to make it a very cheap-build-out-of-junk-rod. My mothers uncle got some volvo parts he´s never going to use, because of age. A volvo B18 engine, 4 speed trans, rearend and brakes would make a cheap and reliable hot rod:cool:
     
  10. volvobrynk
    Joined: Jan 30, 2011
    Posts: 3,587

    volvobrynk
    Member
    from Denmark

    I like the cheap plan! Thats my plan to.

    I plan on running a B30 straight six 3 liter OHV, with a 4 speed too, but only because I have enough. ;)

    If you want one give me a shout.
    I'm willing to swap you for it.
    If you are going for an model a front end, I'm interested in your front springs.

    The B18 is such a little stout four banger with lots of potential. And alot of get up and go parts avalible.
    With a Holley intake, and a Old School (painted) air filter, it looks the parts. You could even run a home build header. Mayby Lake style header, that would look cool.

    Only the 740 rear fits, all the others are to narrow. They are avalible with 3.16-4.20 gears and a Diff Brakes/locker set-up.
    The Front Brakes are quiet easy to fit, from a Volvo to a Model a spindel.
    A machined spacer, that moved the hub out, and machine the hub to accept a model a bearing.
    But thats all secondhand Info.
     
  11. dkWayfarer50
    Joined: Aug 18, 2014
    Posts: 185

    dkWayfarer50
    Member
    from Denmark

    YAHOOOO. Just got a `32 Plymouth 4 door body for FREE. It´s My buddy`s car, but he has a `34 2 door body he is going to put on the `32 chassis. It´s pretty rusty, but there is a good potential together with the ´31 Chevy chassis. Maybe a pickup (the rear end is in good condition, and the oval window is looking cool), a roadster pickup, a speedster, or what would do with it?
    upload_2014-11-20_20-11-20.png
    upload_2014-11-20_20-19-43.png
    upload_2014-11-20_20-25-37.png
    upload_2014-11-20_20-31-44.png
    upload_2014-11-20_20-37-8.png
    upload_2014-11-20_20-44-50.png
     
  12. 2NDCHANCE
    Joined: Sep 11, 2007
    Posts: 997

    2NDCHANCE
    Member

    I hope you have fun doing whatever combo you choose. We built the 30 Chevy Speedster from two field fresh piles of parts. Good luck with the swapping. Gary car-2.jpg TAIL.jpg
     
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  13. dkWayfarer50
    Joined: Aug 18, 2014
    Posts: 185

    dkWayfarer50
    Member
    from Denmark

    I saw yours the other day, and it is very cool. I got a hood from a Volvo 544 that could be the start for a speedster maybe? What chassis is yours and what have you changed on it? Which torpedo/firewall did you use?


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  14. 2NDCHANCE
    Joined: Sep 11, 2007
    Posts: 997

    2NDCHANCE
    Member

    Chassis is a 1930 Chevy (fully boxed), 1954 Chevy Pick Up front axle bolts on. 1995 Nissan Pathfinder rear axle, but a Chevy rear would probably work. Stock Springs with shackles and spring eyes updated. 1930 Chevy cowl and modified firewall. One piece hood (40 Oldsmobile ?) was used for the top of the boat tail.
     
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  15. dkWayfarer50
    Joined: Aug 18, 2014
    Posts: 185

    dkWayfarer50
    Member
    from Denmark

    Sounds simple, and not to expensive. Which engine are you running? Do you have pictures of the hole build of the boattail? I have seen some here at the hamp, but maybe some step by step pics???


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  16. low-n-slo54
    Joined: Jul 25, 2009
    Posts: 1,920

    low-n-slo54
    Member

    I'll be starting to put together my T on a '31 Chevy frame in a couple weeks when I get back to Kansas. It will be a RPU. I'm doing it like this because it's cool and I'm broke but need to keep my sanity. Good luck with your build.


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  17. dkWayfarer50
    Joined: Aug 18, 2014
    Posts: 185

    dkWayfarer50
    Member
    from Denmark

    Sounds cool, i´ll like to see some pics:). I don´t think i will buy the T tudor i think it will ruin the idea because it´s a body to about 4200$. And now that I've got a free (though rusty) body, i can start building for about 3-350$ as the chassis cost. Of course i´m going to spend alot of time getting the body useful. But time is free, and i still have my `50 styleline, so i don´t "need" a car:)
     
  18. dkWayfarer50
    Joined: Aug 18, 2014
    Posts: 185

    dkWayfarer50
    Member
    from Denmark

    is it possible to use a 1957 Chevy pickup front axle? or is it to wide?
     
  19. dkWayfarer50
    Joined: Aug 18, 2014
    Posts: 185

    dkWayfarer50
    Member
    from Denmark

    I just found out, it´s 3-1/2" wider, but will that look stupid? It´s because one of my friends put a mustang 2 frontend on his ´57 pickup, and the old original frontend was totally rebuild, and he´s willing to sell it cheap.
     
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  20. 2NDCHANCE
    Joined: Sep 11, 2007
    Posts: 997

    2NDCHANCE
    Member

    The Front end might look kind of different, but maybe not. That's just an 1-3/4" wider on each side. I've done most of my posting on two threads..."Termites and Bowties - Early Chevy Group" and "What exactly am I buying". I think as long as the width of the rear end matches the width of the front end you would be o.k. Now if your a going to use fenders it's a completely different thing. Gary
     
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  21. 2NDCHANCE
    Joined: Sep 11, 2007
    Posts: 997

    2NDCHANCE
    Member

    I forgot, I'm running a 292 Chevy straight six and a turbo 350 transmission. I kind of wish I would have went with a five speed stick. But the 292 is just fine. Gary
     
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  22. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 33,981

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I think that the spacing of the spring pads on the 57 axle is what is wider. I've got one quite roughly dropped axle out behind the garage that has spring pads setting about that much wider than the 47/54 spring pads.
    With the frame I showed on the other page I am building a low buck boat tail pretty similar to what you described thinking about and to 2ndChance's car above. The 28/31 Chevy frame along with a 1919 Buick cowl that I bought at a swap meet for 10.00 25 years ago when a friend of a friend had it in his booth at the end of the day and my friend said that I needed to buy it. The engine is a 254 Ford Flathead six donated to the project by a fellow Hamber, dump truck 4 speed that matches the engine that was bought for 50.00, Boat tail part of the body made from a 48/53 Chevy pickup hood that had some damage on an area that I didn't use. 47/54 Front axle donated by a fellow hot rodder and 55 Pickup rear axle donated by one of my buddies The 4 spoke steering wheel was something that one of the guys on the Truck board got with a panel he was scrapping out in Alaska and sold me pretty reasonably. Wheels are 18 inch Chevy wires that I picked up one or two at a time at swap meets over the past ten years.
    Since someone else hacked the rear crossmember out of my frame I narrowed the frame in the back so that it was the same width as the center part of the frame. Once the frame is square I'll weld everything up and start assembling the chassis to get everything to fit.
    Here is a shot of the cowl and tail mocked up on the frame to see how things might look.
    [​IMG]
     
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  23. dkWayfarer50
    Joined: Aug 18, 2014
    Posts: 185

    dkWayfarer50
    Member
    from Denmark

    Thanks for your advice and ideas. I was surfing the internet for a couple of hours ago and found an ad on a Danish US-car webside about a 1954 Chevy stepside complete frontend and rear axle up for sale for about $ 250. I called him immediately, and luckily it wasn`t sold. So now it´s mine:D I have a good feeling about this project. I think i'm pretty lucky finding the parts pretty cheap, perhaps others don`t bother having such trash lying around:confused:
     

    Attached Files:

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  24. dkWayfarer50
    Joined: Aug 18, 2014
    Posts: 185

    dkWayfarer50
    Member
    from Denmark

    It´s a cool project, and that hood/boattail really makes a good start...
     
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  25. volvobrynk
    Joined: Jan 30, 2011
    Posts: 3,587

    volvobrynk
    Member
    from Denmark

    I think I talked to that guy, but he told me it was 8 bolts so I backen out.

    Was it on smallblock.dk?

    Keep pics comming! I like the Ideers you got. They match my own.
    I Been colllecting parts for my build. And I plan on doing it like like yours. But doing a body based on my cowl, and take the Beatledeuce aprotch, and scratch build a body, with beatle rear fenders.

    But I will run 18" plate wheels for the speedster look, and keep it early Lake style.
     
  26. dkWayfarer50
    Joined: Aug 18, 2014
    Posts: 185

    dkWayfarer50
    Member
    from Denmark

    I actually don`t know if it´s a 8 bolt??? Forgot to ask:oops: But if it is, i still want it. I can always use the same wheels as them on my styleline, they are universal.
     
  27. dkWayfarer50
    Joined: Aug 18, 2014
    Posts: 185

    dkWayfarer50
    Member
    from Denmark

    i
    I thought 8 bolts only were the 4*4 or "real" trucks.
     
  28. volvobrynk
    Joined: Jan 30, 2011
    Posts: 3,587

    volvobrynk
    Member
    from Denmark

    The Hamb knows about the bolts ;)

    But I might remember wrong. But I lost interest, when he told me it was 8 bolts. But I think 8 bolt are 55-59 task force 1.5-2tons trucks.

    But feel free to correct me. And it should be possible to convert/redrill to a useable bolt pattern.
     
  29. dkWayfarer50
    Joined: Aug 18, 2014
    Posts: 185

    dkWayfarer50
    Member
    from Denmark

    I think I will find a solution, it is certainly not the biggest task in this project:eek:
     
  30. dkWayfarer50
    Joined: Aug 18, 2014
    Posts: 185

    dkWayfarer50
    Member
    from Denmark

    I almost forgot I had this pedal setup lying (I believe it's ´39 Ford). It's something I once got in a trade. Don´t you think it will work with the '54 Chevy front and rear brakes?
    upload_2014-11-22_17-38-11.png
     

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