Projects Model t or a on chevy chassis???

I think this is the car jst wandering is talking about

 

Forgot picture. Keeps tell u ng me I don't have permission. Just google Richard Riddell

 

I somehow attached the picture.

Neal

 

Hey Andreas

That type of frame mods, might be a pain to MOT.

I'm working with almost the same ideer, except scratch build body on a 29 frame.

A newer pick up front Axel and Brakes fit. But I dont know much about the 32 frame.

You should try to keep it stock looking, to ease you MOT.

Remember you will need fenders.
What about engine plans?

 

Maybe i just make it a racecar to put on a trailer after the styleline, i know Denmark is a pain in the a** when it comes to MOT. But sometimes you need to bend the rules, and just pray to that you don´t get caught. There is always a way. My motor plan is a Chevy straight six, i have a pair of 235" on hand.

 

Here's a couple. I just used the main rails and fabbed the crossmembers. The rails are flat and straight so it's real easy to configure them about any way you like.

 

Nice job. Is the front suspension a repro?

 

I believe dual rear leaf springs conversions were once a common option for some pre-WWII Fords, greatly improving the ride and also used in circle track racing to some extent. You might try Chassis Eng. Inc or Posies for parts or kits. Gary

 

guess you are right that the handling might be better, but an original Ford fenderless front is nicer than a Chevy at the same age.

 

If one of those 235 is gonna be in excess after your build, I might be interested.
Is they manual and with a flywheel?

It could be awesome with more then one build going on in DK!

 

The axle and bones are original, the spring is a Posies.

 

A few months ago I applied for a 235 ", and got a lot of requests. One of them had two running from 1958, one was going to swap to V8 in winter, and a couple more also applied. So they are laying around out there.

 

Have you seen Jimmy B impressive build, inspired by a famous Dry Lake era racer?

Its awesome. He did good with the Stock Chevy frontend!!
I got a major photoalbum with the pictures of his car and the car he goes after.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...1925-chev-roadster-build-thread.471395/page-9

 

Is a chevy 1933 frame larger than a 1931 chevy?

 

Yes.

Some thing to remember while thinking this one through. Back when the track roadster thing started back after the war in '46 or so, one of the rules for the CRA at least was that the frame used had to be production rails. Two very popular types were '27-'28 Essex, and '28-'31 Chevy, simply because they were simple, sturdy, and already kicked up. If you look at almost ANY early track roadster featured in the early mags, and many that later ran at the lakes after their circle track career was done, you have a strong chance that it was on Chevy rails.

 

Okay, i think i will buy the 31 chevy frame. It´s a complet frame with Danish papers, for about 300-350$ But maybe a model T tudor is not the right body, but a steel coupé or roadster are very expensive in Denmark. Maybe i should buy a glassfiber body, they are pretty cheap.

 

Thats a fair Price, I paid about the same for my 29 that all but the frame is junk. :-/

How much is the T tudor?
And how bad?

 

The "problem" with the T tudor is that it´s in very good shape, maybe to good... The price is about 3500-4000$. I don´t think i´m going to use it, because i want this thing to be very cheap.

 

That aint bad enough for me to afford it.
Or I dont want it bad enough.

 

More pictures

 

Go for it.
Hot rodding always used to be about using a mixture of what parts you could dig up on the cheap.
Seems now that people expect you to use same brand components, but to me, that's street rodding, and costly.
Get your parts, mock em up, stare at em, change em about, stare at em some more, and when your happy with the look, start bolting, welding together and making it work.

 

it will work nice but use a ford front end so you can lower it. leaf spring fronts are limiting.

 

I just been offered a 1927 olds chassis, complete and running. That would make a awesome underslung to. I been looking at fiberglass bodys in sweden which would be much easier for me. They are very cheap, and i always loved the ´23 T´s with turtledeck or with a little bed. I never been into to fiberglass hot rods, but if i will keep the budget down, that´s a good alternetive

 

I drug this Chevy frame home a couple of years ago for my roadster project.

It is somewhere between 1928 and 31. A previous owner torched out the rear crossmember and it needs to be squared up. The rails would look nice under a T if you ran a Model A front crossmember and built your own middle and rear crossmembers.
That underslung sedan looks wild and now you have me thinking again. This roadster I am building is totally freeform with no rules except it has to be Hamb Friendly and look like a late 20's 2 seat race car.

 

I realize you're on the other side of the pond, but if you're thinking fiberglass, check out the 3" widened version of a 27 roadster body that Class Glass offers:
http://www.classglassperformance.com/27 Ford.html
I've done some preliminary measurements on the 31' Chevy chassis I have tucked away in my dad's shed loft, and it looks like this body would be a really good fit as the extra width would makes it clear the frame rails in the back and make the firewall/cowl about even with the outside of the frame rails. If I could ever get my other projects completed, I may try a build like this with a 235 that I have.

 

About being out of options, when running parallel springs in front is not all true.
A stock 1949-55 front truck axel will fit, will give you a 2 inch drop. A 2 inch dropped axel gives you 4 inch drop total.
I belive there is dropped spindels avalible too.

The Stock steal rims goes from 21 to 19. Wires goes down to 17".

If you swap for a 5 bolt hubs, you can go down to 16 and 15. That should also give about 2 inch drop.

There is a set of 17 inch wires on Veteranposten, the Danish craiglist, they are 5x4.25 inch. Thats new Volvo wheel pattern.
And a Volvo 740 rear fits great and is avalible.

Nissan King cab rear fits and gives
You 4.11 gears and same wheel pattern as early chevy (6x130).
There is also an early set of wires on veteranposten.
And 19x4 ferguson tractor wheels also fit for an early speedster look, and means you dont need to run split rims.

There is plenty of option.
But again If you dont like the look of two springs this dont help you much.

This is also an option:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/index.php?threads/What-exactly-am-I-buying.796045/

 

Just got pictures of the ´27 Oldsmobile chassis. It´s looking better than i thought. It´s been restored in the ´80s and then the body was sold, and the chassis was push over in a corner. The engine was done by a motor-company and everything was being restored, blasted and painted. When i look at it i think it maybe would be cooler as a boattail speedster??? What do you think and what would you do??? I saw a thread one day with a guy building a boattail on a chassis something like this, believe it was a Chevy, it was red and black. But now i can´t find the thread, and i don´t know what to search for?

 

Just attach a T coupe body on that Olds frame and run it. i think it would be way cool.
The 20*30's Chevy frames are an excellent idea for a T or an A project. Way better than a T or A frame.
r

 

It´s very clearly a better framework than the T and A frames. I actually think it's pretty neat with the old brakes, wooden wheels and all.