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MINOR Corrections to Vern Tardell's Book

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Richard D, Jul 7, 2010.

  1. I have read there were a few typos, could we list them here so I can write them down in my copy, and others will have a reference as well?
     
    Last edited: Jul 8, 2010
  2. stude_trucks
    Joined: Sep 13, 2007
    Posts: 4,754

    stude_trucks
    Member

    Seriously? Not trying to be a smart ass, but why not just read it yourself and correct them as you go? Fix the ones you catch and don't worry about the ones you don't even notice. Or just don't worry about them. I don't have a copy myself, but can't imagine they are anything to worry about really. I only look at photos myself, so typos don't bother me. :D
     
  3. I am not knowledgeable enough to do that. I have read it but didn't realize the typos were there until they were pointed out, but I don't remember what they were or where I read about them.
     
  4. stude_trucks
    Joined: Sep 13, 2007
    Posts: 4,754

    stude_trucks
    Member

    Are you talking just simple typos or actual errors in facts or info? If you did't even notice them, I wouldn't worry about it. Maybe I am getting old, but I have learned to not invent problems for myself I never knew I had. I have enough obvious one. I don't need to go around making any more for myself. So, if I had read the book (and probably should), and didn't see any errors, I don't think I would be worrying about it.
     

  5. need louvers ?
    Joined: Nov 20, 2008
    Posts: 12,903

    need louvers ?
    Member

    Why does no one ever remember that Mike Bishop wrote the book, as he and Vern Tardel built the car? An author should get proper credit where it is due. I have had my first edition copy for many years now, and I can say there are very few "typos" that I have witnessed. Certainly not enough that it needs to be torn apart here. Also, a book is always going to be a guideline to those that use it's information, get the stuff you want, take it apart, put it together and you'll know where the "typos" are.
     
  6. -Brent-
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 7,361

    -Brent-
    Member

    I love the book. I've read it a half dozen times, at least. I think with mine, the errors are more with the publisher than in the writing (and I'm a proof-reader by trade).

    Overall, the content is good and, from what I can see, it's solid tech.
     
  7. I think Richard is referring to some of the measurements that have been inaccurate. I seem to remember something to this effect, though I can't actually recall.
     
  8. I think one or two of the issues were something like...let's see...1) Someone mentioned the motor mount measurements from the radiator holes on the x-member was off which threw off the fan/radiator clearance. 2) The holes in the motor mounts were said to be 1 1/4" instead of 1 1/2". Hey, it's gonna happen...
    But Need Louvers? is completely correct; the book is better as a guideline. Love my copy of the BT book, but I'd be checkin' everything I do step by step before I comitted to welding everything solid. I used to build old Harleys and I never painted one single piece until I got it up and runnin' and took it on a good shakedown run to make sure everything worked together...THEN, it was time to pull it apart and do the paint, chrome, etc...
     
  9. propwash
    Joined: Jul 25, 2005
    Posts: 3,857

    propwash
    Member
    from Las Vegas

    I have always questioned anyone that deigned to enumerate the purported errors of another. Especially those who solicit additional accusations of errata from any source, yet have not put out the effort to compile an instructional tome of their own.

    "Let's all get together and find fault with THAT guy, it might make US look better" ???

    Read the book yourself - correct the typos (or even factual errors) that YOU are qualified to edit, and be done with it. Anyone that has ever written anything of substance (and length) will tell you that errata occur - that's why proofreaders have jobs. Even technical manuals can stray from time to time.

    I think Vern and Mike have earned the right NOT to be second-guessed by anyone.

    dj
     
  10. qzjrd5
    Joined: Nov 23, 2004
    Posts: 1,339

    qzjrd5
    Member
    from Troy, MI

    I love the book. I've read it at least 10 times! It sits in the room where I do most of my reading. :D

    It and the HAMB are what have gotten me addicted to this traditional hot rod thing!!

    One thing that did bite me though was the front wishbone reference. It states you should use a '33-'34, and in fact a '32 is what's required. This is easily fixed by some cutting and welding though!
     
  11. Jim Marlett
    Joined: Aug 12, 2003
    Posts: 867

    Jim Marlett
    Member

    Yes, the original edition had some measurement errors that caused some people some grief. I thought they had been corrected in subsequent editions, but I can't say that for sure and I don't remember what they were either. I might if I'd tried to build an A-V8, but I had other motives in buying the book. So, in defense of the OP's motives, I don't think he's talking about grammar or spelling or just nit-picking. He's talking about things that got some people in trouble because they weren't aware of them. RodGuyinCO may have them completely covered, but I just can't remember.
     
  12. fab32
    Joined: May 14, 2002
    Posts: 13,985

    fab32
    Member Emeritus

    Ditto for anything positive that's been said for the above book. I built my first av8 in 1959 without the aid of any printed word. Having struggled through the process by trial and error and the help of a couple of generous old time hot rodders I can tell you that the Bishop/ Tardel book is a godsend. Pick it apart if thats your thing but a lot of av8's will be on the road because of it. Just like everthing that's custom built check,double check and tack everthing in place until all clearances and fit are verified then finalize the structure.

    Frank
     
    Last edited: Jan 28, 2013
  13. Ole don
    Joined: Dec 16, 2005
    Posts: 2,915

    Ole don
    Member

    The Bishop book is far better than most. I bought the book, built the car, enjoyed it for years, and last week it was adopted by someone else. Thank you Bishop and Tardell, I had a blast.
     
  14. This is what I was looking for. I love the book, and have recommended it to many others. I bought it years ago; these minor things may have been changed in later printings. I was by no means criticizing or trying to find fault with Vern and Mike's work. If I came across that way I apollogize.
     
  15. I have the book and love it. If I was going to trust all the printed material I have for the exact facts, dimensions, etc - to build a hotrod, I'd have issues across the board. Rarely are all the facts correct . . . it is our job to sift through them, talk to other people, do mock-ups, measure a few times more than necessary and in some cases -- fix crap that didn't come out correct. There is nobody who has built a car from the ground up who hasn't had to redo a couple things -- sometimes even major things.

    I can only hope that folks like Bishop continue to write quality material and build quality cars like this - I learn from every article/book like this and can't get enough of them.
     
    Last edited: Jul 8, 2010
  16. Cymro
    Joined: Jul 1, 2008
    Posts: 755

    Cymro
    Member

    Remember guys this book is the story of the build up. It is an excellent book I've read it from cover to cover a few times, the odd error or two is bound to crop up as they do on build threads here of the car.
    Generally editing and proof reading of a publication is carried out by a person without any specialist knowledge of the subject so some "corrections" are made in error, this is especially true in cases where texts have been checked and altered electronically. I encounter this phenomonen quite often especially where texts have been translated into another language.
    Having read the book I'm certain it's intention was to guide and inspire people to build a V8 powered Model A Roadster, which it does very well, I don't think the authors at any time envisaged a " Haynes Workshop Manual" style of build guide ie bolt part A onto part B etc etc.
    How many technical manuals have we all read, and compared it to the actual component we were working on at the time and found descrepancies?

    Great book,
     
  17. Richard, great thread. Guys, let up a bit. There are BIG errors in the book. Mike Bishop (av8) mentioned the measurements here years ago so this thread is no dig at him. I will dig around and see if I can find the thread.
     
  18. need louvers ?
    Joined: Nov 20, 2008
    Posts: 12,903

    need louvers ?
    Member

    Hey Richard D, My apologies sir, I didn't mean to just flat jump you last night when I made my post to this thread. I know of the inaccuracies within the book, but as posted in this thread, most are stuff you just flat find when doing this stuff. Any way, I hope you can just chalk it up to my having a bad evening last night...
     
  19. Please don't take offense at this but if you didn't notice them why does it matter.

    Maybe if it is something numeric like 12 inches verses 15 inches it shouldn't really make any difference at all.

    Just my take on it like I said please don't take offense.
     
  20. Thanks Tman, I even posted in that thread a few months ago, but the photos are gone, I'm pretty green, so I am here asking for a little clarity.
    As for everyone else who responded, no harm no foul. I've been around here long enough to not get my feathers ruffled.:)
     
  21. scottybaccus
    Joined: Mar 13, 2006
    Posts: 4,109

    scottybaccus
    Member

    Richard, Go buy a new copy. :)
     
  22. Be nice to have a dirty one in the garage and a clean one inside.
     
  23. At least you said the "dirty one" was in the garage . . . I was worried you were going to say the bathroom :eek:
     
  24. OLLIN
    Joined: Aug 25, 2006
    Posts: 3,147

    OLLIN
    Member

    there was a post the other day about the wiring diagram too.

    it was some small thing, like the 2 wires were backwards and he added another relay or something, but it was good info...not bashing the authors.
     
  25. Lucky77
    Joined: Mar 27, 2006
    Posts: 2,495

    Lucky77
    Member

    Wow, bullshit aside can we get back to the original question. Its a fantastic book, fab32 told me to read it cover to cover then do so again. Just when you think you know everything read it cover to cover again. Its probably the best GUIDELINE we have today but as I found out the hard way it can't be takes as the gospel.

    What I found was (in my case, yours might vary) is as follows:

    Depending on your copy it says to use a 32 or 34 front wishbone. This is an area of much confusion. If you place your 32 K member where the book tells you 5.75" ahead of the model A cross member your 34 wishbone falls short of the front cross member in the stock location. I bolted a stock 32 to my front axle and when I put the ball end in the K member the spring ended up about 1.5"-1.75" ahead of the cross member.

    I ended up unbolting the K member and letting the length of the 32 wishbone bolted to the front spring/axle determine where the K member wound up. It looked good and it might work with my 30 roadster body but there were a few problems. First, the firewall is a little different than a 28/29 so it needs a little massaging to fit. Plus if I leave it where it is I can't take the heads off with the engine in the car. Secondly the dipstick is right next to the steering box and I think the dipstick should be ahead of the box. Also don't go by the front motor mount location or hole size in the book. Get the K member where you want it and then use that to find the location for your front motor mounts. Also the hole size in the mount is smaller than 1.5" I think its 1.25" Bob Drake sells the flathead motor mount kit so I'd try him.

    Using the 32 wishbone as your guide to locate your K member gets you close but I think I'm going to unbolt the ball end and move the K member/engine slightly forward to clear my firewall and steering box. Then I'll make a new wishbone out of a model A saddle and two 33/34 bones I have. That's what I've run into so far. It doesn't mean the book is bad or anyone is ripping on anybody but there happens to be a few errors that will really mess you up if you follow the book to a T. Here's some shots of my chassis with the K member in the book's location with a 32 bone and an after shot when I let the wishbone determine the K member location.
     

    Attached Files:

  26. Great info Scott, just what I was looking for. I'm gonna print this and paste it in my book.
     
  27. Thanks for real world info Scott! I looked for another thread I remember but could not find it under Mikes posts, it is tucked into someone elses thread. Hard to search.

    Best case would be if Mike would chime in here and lay it all out again.

    His/Tardells book is amazing, nice to see the new issues are corrected but I always wonder with mine when I forget the details! DOH!
     
  28. Lucky77
    Joined: Mar 27, 2006
    Posts: 2,495

    Lucky77
    Member

    No problem. I sent an e mail on this topic to both Mike and Vern but never heard back from either. So I guess we're on our own. The K member locale is very critical besides positioning your engine/transmission and the torque tube, your pedals are bolted to the K member too. There's not much room in an A roadster (I'm 6'1") so having the pedals too far back could make driving really uncomfortable with your legs up against the steering wheel.
     
  29. aldixie
    Joined: May 28, 2008
    Posts: 1,662

    aldixie
    Member

    I have been using it as a guide. I had to mount my engine mounts further back for fan clearance. Also location of the engine mounts varies according to what type of block you are using and what front pulley setup. I'm using a F1 crossmember instead of a K member (too expensive). The book has been a great read.
     

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