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leaf spring perch to reposition rear end

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by phastwilliam, Jan 10, 2012.

  1. Can somebody tell me how or even if its possible to do. I need to put the rear end 2 inches further back than where it sits now....is it possible to buy or make a spring perch {9" Ford rear end , 2.5 " leaf springs} I have not welded the spring perch to the rear end housing...seems as if I could just take a piece of 2x4 heavy wall rectangular profile mild steel and do that...but if someone makes this part...Id do that ...help please, I looked at tech suspension posts but couldnt find anything
     
  2. Springs mounted in boxed frame in front and spring hangers in rear are through the boxed frame ...new springs and remount all that stuff not an option..have to work with set up as it is now...move the housing back with a offset perch
     
  3. Andy
    Joined: Nov 17, 2002
    Posts: 3,362

    Andy
    Member

    Just redrill the hole in the existing pads. If necessary, add a tab for the hole. Easy fix.
     
  4. I've done it by drilling a new centering pin hole in the pad. Let me guess, you putting some BIG TIRES out back and now the tire rubs the 1/4 panel up front.
     
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  5. Topless Ford
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 560

    Topless Ford
    Member

    Order a new set of springs with the pin located 2 inches back. For instance, in the OT off road world, using wagoneer springs in a wrangler nets a 2 inch wheelbase stretch on the front or rear or both. If you use 2" offset blocks, you are asking for trouble. Just order new springs with a different pin location.
     
  6. need louvers ?
    Joined: Nov 20, 2008
    Posts: 12,161

    need louvers ?
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Actually, search any company that makes rear suspension parts for early Chevys. They all stock relocation kits 'cause when you use the stock springs on any chevy up to '54, you have to relocate the new rear back 2 1/4"... Chassis Engineering comes to mind. Personally, I would just redrill the spring perch and lower plate you have, or just make a 1/2" lowering block wioth the holes drilled off set.
     
  7. ray-jay
    Joined: Feb 23, 2008
    Posts: 196

    ray-jay
    Member
    from Buford GA

    Why not just drill a new hole in the main leaf and move all the other leaves to this new location ? It sounds wrong when I think it but as I consider it more it's not like the main leaf is independent of the others.
     
  8. Just drill a new hole in the pad 2 inches forward from the existing center hole. It does not have to be athe middle. It just locates the rearend so it does not slide on the springs. Don't overthink it. People do it all the time on 49-54 Chevy cars when they put an open drive rear.

    You can't drill the leaf springs for a new pin hole for two reasons: 1) the springs are heat treated and very hard to drill, and 2) the old hole will potentially become a crack initiation point.
     
  9. Seems simple enough to just drill a hole...Im on to that, thanks guys for helping me think it out....
     
  10. Don's Hot Rods
    Joined: Oct 7, 2005
    Posts: 7,529

    Don's Hot Rods
    Member
    from florida

    I think Ray-Jay has a brilliant solution there. Wish I had thought of it. :D That two inch rearward shift won't be enough to mess anything up strengthwise.

    BTW, you will burn up a drill bit or two, even with HS drill bits, spring steel is tough. But if you use cutting oil and go slow it will do it. Maybe there are some drill bits that are better for this, but I don't own any so I only use what I have.

    Don
     
  11. leaded
    Joined: Nov 17, 2005
    Posts: 327

    leaded
    Member
    from Norway

    Remember that the spring tension will be altered when the spring center is moved!
    The centerbolt is placed there for a comprises of tension and stability. and the original hole, will be a weakened point of breaking.........
     
  12. Looks as if the path of least resistance will apply here...I found a couple pcs of aluminum bar stock 1" x 2" ...I am going to drill two holes to reposition the center line 2" behind where it is normally......since I need a one inch drop anyway, this will all stack nicely in place captured by the U bolts...best of all I wont have screwed up anything but the aluminum....Messing with the leaf spring cutting or drilling a hole is just a good way to get that spring to fail in the future...Im 69, I aint gonna wear out that leaf spring ! so why should I worry about the spring , drilling it ,that is...I tried it once...fuck that.....maybe blow a plasma hole through it tho.........You see , you always have to think about rolling down the road and thinking to yourself about all the stuff you half assed engineered...Again ....Thanks for all the food for thought
     
  13. sunbeam
    Joined: Oct 22, 2010
    Posts: 1,444

    sunbeam
    Member

    If you have allot for HP and traction the front of the pad can lift enought to come off the spring bolt.
     
  14. need louvers ?
    Joined: Nov 20, 2008
    Posts: 12,161

    need louvers ?
    ALLIANCE MEMBER


    Good way to go about it, and very close to the "kits" for relocation I was talking about. Just a hint, if you ever do have to redrill a spring, instead of cutting oil use good old Elmer's white glue for a tool coolant and lube. I kid you not, an old buddy of mine taught me this trick about twenty years ago, and i have used it a million times since. There is absolutely no logical way this should work as well as it does, but it does!
     
  15. X3, this how I've done it myself. I used an Allen fastener for the centering pin. 3/8" if I recall which has a 1/2" dia. head. Tap the center hole and the offset hole sets on the leaf.
     

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