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jag ifs swap-weld v soft mount

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by zeke51, Feb 27, 2009.

  1. zeke51
    Joined: Dec 7, 2008
    Posts: 86

    zeke51
    Member
    from arizona

    I have a 48 f1 that I am going to put a xj6 IFS into. I have been doing the research and think this is a perfect way to go based on bang for the buck. I am asking this and on FTE to see if there is a consensus. Other than the obvious one (simplicity) is there any advantage/disadvantage if I were to weld in the subframe versus soft mount. It appears I could get a bit more drop in the front end with welding it in. Maybe a bit more strength(?). Would this cause greater problems with the rear mounted r n p? If anyone has welding this setup in I would be interested in any inout you could give. Any help is appreciated pictures even better!
     
  2. aldixie
    Joined: May 28, 2008
    Posts: 1,514

    aldixie
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I have one in a 1950 Chevy sedan, not driven it much yet but mine is welded in. I did one on a 50 F1 about 8 or 9 years ago and again I welded that one and had no problems. I have an article done by custom car magazine that shows one put into a 50 chevy pickup. PM me and I'll email it to you if you don't already have it.
     
  3. Vinnie
    Joined: Aug 17, 2005
    Posts: 116

    Vinnie
    Member

  4. Flipper
    Joined: May 10, 2003
    Posts: 3,190

    Flipper
    Member
    from Kentucky

    Weld it. They look better when you fill on the space between the frame and the spring pockets.
     
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  5. Evil Wicked Mean & Nasty
    Joined: Feb 23, 2006
    Posts: 1,576

    Evil Wicked Mean & Nasty
    Member

    What about the avalibility and cost of rebuild brake parts? I've always liked the looks of the Jag IFS and hear they ride and handle good but, I can't help thinking it would be pretty pricy when it comes rebuild time.
     
  6. aldixie
    Joined: May 28, 2008
    Posts: 1,514

    aldixie
    ALLIANCE MEMBER


    Parts are readily available at the parts houses including Autozone. They are well built. Rear ends have been used for years in Rods in the UK.

    Example of prices:-
    Brake pads $21
    Rebuilt Calipers $150
    Rebuld kits $54
    Brake Hose $25
    Bearing kits $22
     
  7. Spyder
    Joined: Mar 18, 2005
    Posts: 686

    Spyder
    Member
    from Houston

    I welded in. No problems with parts. I used a xj6 in a 28 Ford and the springs were way too stiff. I was later advised that softer springs can be had. I had already switched to coil overs. As you know these front ends use 5x4.75 bolt pattern, so it's easy to find wheels in that pattern, but the center of the hub is real big and many wheels won't fit. I recently got a heads up about turning the hubs down on a lathe for easier wheel fit. it was pretty straightforward using the rack w/o power steering.
     
  8. Evil Wicked Mean & Nasty
    Joined: Feb 23, 2006
    Posts: 1,576

    Evil Wicked Mean & Nasty
    Member

    I'm surprised at that. I guess they aren't too much more expensive to work on than the usual clip job and probably a lot better engeneering. After you figure out if you want to weld or soft mount, I'd like to see some progress pics as you go.
     
  9. Flipper
    Joined: May 10, 2003
    Posts: 3,190

    Flipper
    Member
    from Kentucky

    Somebody on here posted this one done to a chevy AD truck. It gives you an idea for how the jag can be blended in with the original frame.

    [​IMG]
     
  10. Retro Jim
    Joined: May 27, 2007
    Posts: 3,862

    Retro Jim
    Member

    I have seen many rods with Jaguar rears and front ends . When I asked about them & parts they all told me they would do it again without any regrets !
    WELD it in !
     
  11. aldixie
    Joined: May 28, 2008
    Posts: 1,514

    aldixie
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    If you want to airbag them, they are real easy to do as well. I'm using some short front shocks on mine with some air ride front chock mounts welded to the crossmember.
     
  12. Spyder
    Joined: Mar 18, 2005
    Posts: 686

    Spyder
    Member
    from Houston

    When I was playing with mine it turned out some of the front end parts were stainless steel: The steering arms and sway bar mounts. They polished up nice and made the front end look better w/o $.
     
  13. Abomination
    Joined: Oct 5, 2006
    Posts: 6,599

    Abomination
    Member

    I'd love to see pics!

    ~Jason
     
  14. zman
    Joined: Apr 2, 2001
    Posts: 16,540

    zman
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Garner, NC

    I'm a big fan of making them bolt in like stock. If need be I can unbolt the one out of my Buick and put another right in.
     
  15. zeke51
    Joined: Dec 7, 2008
    Posts: 86

    zeke51
    Member
    from arizona

    From what I gather its not bad at all. In fact its quite reasonable. THere are several sites that cater to just them. Do it! You know you want to.
     
  16. zeke51
    Joined: Dec 7, 2008
    Posts: 86

    zeke51
    Member
    from arizona

    Thanks to all for the info. I appreciate it.
     
  17. LIFESTYLZ
    Joined: Apr 29, 2007
    Posts: 3,150

    LIFESTYLZ
    Member

    Just to be different, I grafted the whole front subframe from the jag (firewall forward) to my '49 Lincoln coupe.
    This gives me the exact system the Jag engineers designed originally.
    Also gives me the ability to front hinge the Lincoln front sheet metal for tilt front.
    The Jag front bonnet mount is solid and very easily adjustable.
    I have also used the Jag rear end but have custom mounts. Threw the cage away..
    Incidentally, the weight of the Jag and the Lincoln are exactly the same. 3950 pounds.
    Will post some pics when I get home from Americarna. (big event here in NZ)
     
  18. zman
    Joined: Apr 2, 2001
    Posts: 16,540

    zman
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Garner, NC

    Yeah, when it was suggested for my Buick I figured the weights would be off. The Buick with the cast iron dynaflow and original rear was 4100 lbs. Lose the dynaflow for ST400 and the weight difference in the rears and I was right at the same weight.
     
  19. cornbinder13
    Joined: Jan 18, 2009
    Posts: 61

    cornbinder13
    Member

    Check out what I did with my truck,Igot rid of the cage and went to frame with custom fabbed cross member mount.Any questions feel free to contact me.
     
  20. zeke51
    Joined: Dec 7, 2008
    Posts: 86

    zeke51
    Member
    from arizona

    will do. ii can figure out how to get pics on here!
     
  21. zeke51
    Joined: Dec 7, 2008
    Posts: 86

    zeke51
    Member
    from arizona

    Cornbinder, how can I see the pics of what you did. Im technology retarded and new to this forum schtuff!
     
  22. 73RR
    Joined: Jan 29, 2007
    Posts: 5,069

    73RR
    Member

    Jag parts and tech info available at Exotic Car Parts, 909-946-8180


    .
     
  23. Warpspeed
    Joined: Nov 4, 2008
    Posts: 471

    Warpspeed
    Member

    As I said in the Ozrodders thread, rubber mounting will give you a nice quiet smooth ride with fewer rattles, bangs and clunks. <bk/> But welding has some advantages too, especially at the front. A solidly welded in front crossmember will greatly add to torsional rigidity. A rubber mounted front end adds nothing to torsional rigidity of the frame rails.,<bk/> I guess it finally comes down to personal preference, and the intended use of the vehicle.
     
  24. LIFESTYLZ
    Joined: Apr 29, 2007
    Posts: 3,150

    LIFESTYLZ
    Member

  25. zeke51
    Joined: Dec 7, 2008
    Posts: 86

    zeke51
    Member
    from arizona

    Thanks for the pics. Great job!!
     
  26. billyolds
    Joined: Apr 4, 2011
    Posts: 2

    billyolds
    Member
    from clearwater

    has anyone been able to make the ford 5x5.5 wheels work on the swap? I understand anything is possible but im not trying to reinvent the wheel.
     
  27. moffetkustoms
    Joined: Feb 2, 2011
    Posts: 150

    moffetkustoms
    Member
    from granby, mo

    Awsome job on the international, Cornbinder. That is one gorgous truck.
     

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