If it can be put in a Rambler wagon, it can be put in near anything! So hear goes a quicky tech article, just covering the basics: 1. Find a donor first. Most common ones are 80s XJ6 models. That's fine! All the axles use a Salisbury differential. That's ALMOST a Dana 44. Salisbury is actually a subsidiary of Dana. Be prepared to replace ALL seals in the diff. This isn't costly, just a bit time consuming. A Jag repair manual will help. 2. Be prepared to change the gears unless you need 2.88 gearing. Bearing sizes and such are different than the D44, but you can use a D44 ring and pinion. This requires a special installation kit available from Jag parts suppliers. The bolts that hold the ring to the carrier are different, so special shoulder bolts are supplied in the kit. The pinion shaft is also different, but special bearings take care of that. You'll also need a standard u-joint yoke for the D44 pinion shaft. 3. You will either have to narrow the axle or buy deep backspace wheels. Unless you want to pony up the $$$ for special outer hubs, you're stuck with the old big Chevy bolt pattern (5x4-3/4"). The Jag XJ rear tread is about 64", darned close to my 63 Rambler width of around 63". Should be a piece of cake, right? Well, the Jag uses deep set wheels! AMC (Rambler) uses a standard 5x4.5" wheel pattern (same as Ford & Chrysler). I looked at custom wheels, but no one made a 5" backset 7" wide wheel (didn't want anything real wide, would have needed 6" backset on a 8" wheel though, also a "no go"). I ended up lucking out though -- Weld Draglites come in just about any backset and width you'd want! So I gout my 7" wheels with 5" backset, no narrowing required! Narrowing isn't tough IF you're a good pipe welder and have access to a lathe. The lower arms are tubular. Cut a section out of the middle, bevel grind, clamp tight in the V of a piece of 2"x2"x1/4" thick angle, and carefully tack weld back and forth across. If you don't know how to weld something round and make it straight, get a pro to do it! The axles are the upper arms. They are drop forged steel. They can be cut, beveled and welded, but leave that to a pro. If you want to DIY, find a piece of tubing that will slide over the cut axle. Cut the same amount out the center as the arms, bevel a bit then slide the tubing over. You'll likely need to put the axle in a lathe and smooth it for the sleeve. If you can slide the sleeve far enough up the axle, butt weld the axle, grind, then slide the sleeve over. If not, just weld on both ends of the sleeve. The tubing sleeve needs to be thicker than 11 gauge! Hmmm... you don't like the axle shortening? Then have new ones made! The u-joints on the axles are a stnadard Chevy size. That means you can measure how long the axle needs to be and have a short tubular driveshaft made. That's the way Chevy did it on the early Corvettes. You might run into a coil over shock clearance problem, but you can space the shocks out a bit further if necessary. Of course that will mean finding some longer hardened steel rods -- that's what the ends of the shocks mount on. You'll see when you get your core. 4. You have a few choices when it comes to mounting the axle. It comes out from the Jag in a triangular sheet metal "cage". The cage is rubber mounted to the body. That cage will usually sit right in the rails where a normal rear axle was. you cna just make steel mounts to bolt where the rubber ones were, or even get new rubber mounts. Solid mounting is better for performance, rubber for ride. the ruber ones wear out with age and affect handling. If you drive an older Jag and it feels a little loose in the rear, the mounts are shot. Most people strip it of the cage and make an upper crossmember. I did that. I cut a piece of 2"x3" 11 gauge rectangular tubing 1/16" narrower than the inside of the rear suspension rails (or frame rails -- but I've got a unit body car!). I then welded 11 gauge 3" wide steel strips (overlapping the tubing by 2-3") that extended to the outside of the rails and bent up and over the outside about 1". Yes, it's wider than the tubing (tubing mounted with 3" going up). That allowed more welding room. I drilled this to fit the two 3/8" bolts on ech side that formerly held the rubber bumpers on. They just support the weight of the axle when the body is jacked up. To be safe, I drilled a 3/8" hole and installed a self tapping screw in the 1" lip on the outside of the rail. 5. You'll need to make upper shock mounts on the new crossmember (CM). I made mine up from 11 gauge plate, but a piece of tubing welded on the bottom of the CM with a hardened steel rod through it (like the lower mount) will work fine. I'd gusset the tubing also. 6. Mount the diff to the CM by welding a piece of 11 gauge plate in the middle. I forget the exact dimensions, but believe I used a 12" square plate with a 1" lip bent down on the left and right sides for stiffness. Weld in place then drill four 5/8" holes in it. Use the old cage or bolt holes in the top of the diff to get the pattern. Drill so that the centerline of the axles is the same as the CM. Put four 4" or 5" threaded 1/2" studs in the four holes on top of the axle, use Locktite or a punch to keep them from coming out. Now put four nuts on the studs, set the CM on the diff, and put four more nuts on with lock washers. You can adjust pinion angle and height this way, and the 5/8" holes give you just enough room for the angle adjustment. 7. The only thing you need now are lower control arms. I used 30" four link arms from Pete and Jakes. Order four adjustable ends with urethane bushings while you're at it. One end fits where the original Jag arm did, the other mounts to the frame. I made mounts from 11 gauge again. Had a lot of the stuff around! 8. MISC. STUFF: Instead of buying tie bars for the inner control arm mounts, I cut the center sections from the cages. Don't look as good as bought aluminum or stainless bars, but were there and the axles is hid underneath anyway. These are easy enough to make that look better. I used the bottom plate form the cage also. It cost me $100 for a core axle assembly from a pick-n-pull. They originally wanted to piece-price it out, but I talked to a manager. first thing I said was "do you know how much this thing costs to rebuild?" Then he asked if it was worth $100. Would have given up to $250, but lucked out! I bought a set of 3.55 Jag gears instead of going the D44 route. Cost me $150 for the gears, $150 to have a pro set them up. That was the biggest expense. I had to change one set of hub bearings, so changed both. One of the bearings (on each side) had to be pressed off and on by a shop (no hydraulic press!), so that cost me a bit ($75??). One caliper was rebuildable, $20 kit. the other was rusted solid, $175 caliper! replaced both rotors also. All the u-joints and bushings were good (needle bearings in the pivots!). Spent $700 total on all parts/labor to get the axle in shape to use, and replaced ALL seals. Everyting but gear set-up and those bearings I had to have pressed was done by myself on the garage floor. I'm open to questions!! Hows this for a tech article?