Projects I destroyed a nice old car, help me fix it

Exactly, give a man a fish and you feed him for a day, teach a man to fish and you feed him for a lifetime!

 

OK, 32 A and a 32 T. I'm out.

 

me 2 C'YA

 

Very likely it was a typo, and he meant 23T. Heck, plenty of older guys look at pictures of my Willys project and think its a model A. Or they never heard of a Willys built in the 20's or 30's.

 

What's wrong, aside from throwing good money after bad you're on the wrong site.

If you want to inject it get yourself a mechanical and teach yourself to run and tune it.

 

Well, so how about this, my neighbor has a 91 ford 4.6 he wants 150 for with a trans, computer and drive shaft. What complications will i hit with this swap?

 

this truly must be a labor of love to you. if it was too much work a three door would have been neat.

 

You're going way OT with that kind of swap methinks. You're going to want to ask about that kind of stuff on another forum.

 

I am not fitting in well here, me thinks

 

You may try reading here:

http://jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/the-h-a-m-b-rules-guidelines.44274/

I think that we have a sister site where your engine choices may fit in:
http://api.viglink.com/api/click?fo...Page 5 | The H.A.M.B.&txt=www.DOGFIGHTMag.com

or there is a site called yellowbullet that you may come closer to fitting in with but they may just hand you your hat there as well those guys from what I understand are pretty serious about going fast 9 and bad mouthing the HAMB).

None of this is an invitation to leave, just leave your late model stuff out and learn what we are about.

 

x2 on the dogfightmag site. You'll probably find better answers on the late model swap type stuff and not get the guff for it.

 

Alright, formal apology. I had not recently read the rules. Traditional is what I want!! Don't shun me yet! I want to make you all proud! I can do it honest! One last question before I get back on topic. Why are my mags called "mullet mags" I like the way they look, but are they too late model ore something?

Pat

 

They were popular when Mullets were popular. Those are actually steel wheels by the way and not a cast wheel. Most wheels that we call mags are cast aluminum at the very least and magnesium is what the original name for mag wheels came from. Magnesium wheels ware pretty much made from Unobtanium these days. We prefer things made around '64 or earlier so yes I guess your wheels would be too new for most of us to be interested in.

No one is mad at you, don't get shook. Start where you are at, with the body and go from there.

 

And if you decide to use a OT engine, keep the hood closed and don't talk about it here and you will be OK. Post the stuff that fits in with this site and keep anything else hush hush.

 

Those mags were popular when I was growing up in the 80's and so was the Mullet hairstyle, so those wheels always tend to remind me of that era and the hairstyle. I'm not bashing them, I had a set like that on an OT musclecar project I had back in my early 20's; I just think more period steelies or maybe some 5 spoke mags would look 100 times better on that car.

 

LOL you can't see them in this pic but I have a pair on the back of this old heap. They were 6 lug 8 wide and cheap. The moon caps hide them really well though.

Hubcaps will cover a multitude of sins.

 

So I've been working on the inside a bit more. Slow rolling with work and all. Both doors shut and latch now. Gotta cut some access holes tonight to get the latches working. I'm at peace with the windows being drag style. Got a big box of harbor freight stuff waiting for me at home! More pictures to come!

 

Some inspiration for you...

 

So, I now have both of the rear windows in, and both of the latches working. Next up is to do the metal work on the passenger door, and then rework the drivers door. Moving along. So... my radiator has pin holes all over the place. I do believe that aluminum radiators are frowned upon here. This is the factory brass one, it may be a Blackstone i'm not sure. I want reliability with this one. I can and have soldered some of the pin holes up, but i'm worried about future leaks. There is a rad shop in town that is really good. Should i have them hot tank it? or should i just get an alum one and paint it black? Obvious Note: Stock or aftermarket has no bearing on my decision. I'm looking for the cheapest option besides stop leak. Also, beating the old engine WOT on gravel makes the old six run way hot even full of fluid. I.m sure the car wasn't built for this, but what are the options? How to decide?

 

Lots of stuff is frowned upon here it just depends on which click is doing the frowning today.

Aluminum will fly in a car like yours well enough, painted is OK just don't get crazy with the paint and ruin your cooling. Also cheap alternative is a rad for an early mustang they run about 125 or so. Get a 3 or 4 core incase you decide to go V8 at a later date if you go that route. it should fit quite nicely in your car.

I have run patched radiators a bunch in my life. If you can patch it yourself then you are golden as long as you are not starting with Swiss Cheese. I guess it is a judgment call on your part.

 

Aluminum. Paint it black. I'd try a rattle can of Radiator Paint and lay it on thin.

 

So what sort of things can be done to a little 196 inline? I cut out the larger copper tube in the intake that obstructs fluid movement. BTW, if anyone needs a holley 1909, ive replaced mine with a carter RBS. This made a major difference. I was told a cam will help a bit? I have read a bit about using an eaton M90 supercharger? Id like to keep the stock inline for the sake of not being able to facilitate an engine swap. I think I'm as carburated as I need to be for now. Can all old transmission valve bodies be modified to run manual like a torque flight or a gm-turbo?

Just curious about all of this.

 

You can probably find a shift kit for your transmission I am not sure about a manual shift body.

Camshafts help, headers are probably available. I neat trick would be a small roots style blower set up with clutch style pulley (like an AC pump pulley) then you could boost when you wanted to road warrior style. Keep your boost down so you don't have to rework everything.

N2O is easy and cheap as well. Someone will scoff at it but who really cares.

 

Ive actually thought about using a lawnmower pto clutch for a roots blower, and no, a header is not available. I also really doubt the shift kit, but all is possible.

 

Well you got a welder and U bends are cheap so a header is available.

 

Why not worry about getting the door situation done first? whats the point of a hot motor in a car thats already had its doors blown off?

Like my guru tells me when I'm having issues with my projects. Back to basics, start with the small stuff. One step at a time

 

I just ran across this thread... got some good laughs out of it...
But in all seriousness, I think the best (by FAR the best) advice that was given was to stitch it back together (I might ad-- as cheap as you can), nix the further mods until you're finished with school, and then tackle it again after you're out of school. Don't focus on building a car right now, just use it as a way to drive to and from school for now. It is very, very important to get your income as high and as stable as possible before doing intensive car building... trust me on that.
And one more suggestion from me. Seriously. Check into eliminating all excitotoxins (found in almost all processed pre-prepared food) from your diet. Then your brain won't be spinning so much and you'll be able to focus on things and to make better decisions. Been there, done that...
Good luck!

 

This has been a fun thread. Pat, your first post was asking for help, guidance and FOCUS on your project. Reread the posts in reply and you will see that most are gentle and trying to get you to do exactly that - FOCUS on finishing the stuff you have started.

We all dream of the finished project and the mind can wander further than our time, money and skills can get us. While it can be entertaining to think about other major mods, you need to finish the doors, followed by the quarters, windows and posts. Once the body you started is useable, move on to getting the current drivetrain reliable (radiator) and go through the brakes and steering to make sure these will hold up. Get it all in primer. Get the interior installed. Fix the stuff that breaks and work on basic maintenance and reliable operation. This isn't different or glamorous, but it will take all your talents and limited funds. A set of tires and brakes is more important than a set of injectors and fuel rail and lines for a system that isn't even built.

Gasser stance (I assume you are considering a straight axle), scratch built EFI, drivetrain swaps and other MAJOR mods will take more time, money and skills than you currently have.
You are also learning at a fast pace and you should know that what you mentally design now will be much better after 6 months or a year from now with a good education and reading/researching here on the HAMB and other sites. Also as said, developing your skills at planning will help in your professional career and personal projects. Having been the bright-eyed young man with a thousand different ideas all screaming for attention and building, I understand the desire. Try to listen to the posts here and understand that a good many of them speak from experience with the project that started out great but ended up either scrapped or redone after more money, time and skill was available. This is not to dissuade you from going for it, just concentrate on a what you have started until it is complete and plan (and budget) the next steps before you leap.

 

Many replies were gut busting funny....especially Beaners shortened wagon ( with custom rear hatch entry) ....but seriously young man get one part of the project done then get the next part DONE etc. etc....make it safe have fun and learn as you go!

 

Damned Beaner! I was gettin' wood 'til I realized she was workin' on the car!