Hotrod folding top,a how too do it tech

DIY hotrod folding top at Home.
A How Too;
This design I came up with,is to actully fold down,many designs do not,and that's OK,but limits the speed your rod can go with it up. So I wanted to be able to run faster at times with it folded. There is other ways to do it all,but this is my way. I think this is adopible to most any size an shape,even T-bucket.

The bows in my design will not have extra links between windsheild and the next bow=this will simplafie the set up and let you take the header bow and just roll it up into the top,so it all folded down is much smaller a pile,but will need some straps to hold the pile inplace.
I'll be trying to add drawings an photos as I go along,but I had done this one time before long ago,but never did the fabric,so this time I'll tell ya about how I do that too.
This is on my 1928 Ford Model A roadster,but should be fairly EZ to use same thing on any type old style roadster. I've seen this done before,but have not done it myself,so we'll be winging it for the most part,an learn from my mistakes,if I make any? LOL
This is for my 28,it will take 2yards x 60in.wide of Tan Sunbrela*{if your any bigger at all get 3yards], two 8ft. x 3/4in. EMT,plus snaps ,a few SS stove bolts as bow mounts and two 1x3in.x 4ft. wood.
Plan out what your going to do. Start by making up a side view drawing of your car with you setting in it,add some sizes for top of your head and were windsheild is and back of cockpit. I like doing it best in full size on a big cardboard or something like that,you can even get a buddy to trace you out after the cardborad is cut to fit just behind windsheild and all along top edge of cockpit showing back lip, But if you good at scale do it that way if you like.
(A)Most importen to check is line of site for driver when setting in the car,can you see the road though the windsheild ,not looking over it [ most of you know this already but] =if not there are a few ways to fix this; #1 add a taller windsheild or lower your seat if posible enough to see through it .
If nethere of those canbe done,you can resort to making a custom windsheild header bow that incorperates a glass windsheild top section that stays with the header bow all the time,even when top is folded down=a bit odd but a lot of old cars did have two part windsheilds with one above the other, stock that way as built. You can get clever and make it fold also from headerbow.
First design prob to deel with after your layout is made and working out about were and what angle your bows will be at. Will be holding the top header bow in place #a and holding the backbow inplace to the body #b.
I'll try to Q an A as I go,so asked away if needed.
I'll update as we go.
First photo to give ya idea of were I'm at now,then somethings to do drawings.
Here is a tech that I did with related info on sewing parts;http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=604077
Plus my rebuild of my rod this is going on;http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=793393
I'm doing it myself like all the rest,I picked up two 3/4in. EMT tubes,thats what you see as 2 bows,the windshield header is wood,two 3/4in.x 3in. screwed together an shaped,I made up two metal lock to top of post deals=locks with a little wing bolt at each side.

 

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I'll get down to the finer points,but for now the basic.
I'm thinking about 9 snaps across the back wood lip{ nop it needed 10snaps],an stapeled front edge to headerbow with loops sewed in for the other top bows{did no loops,just added screws with nylon washers under them to each bow]. I got two yards of 60in.wide tan Sunbrela,should be more then enough.{only had 1sq. ft. left over,so I should of got 3yards maybe to be safe from a misstake,I got lucky]
To work out the panel lay out for the fabric,I'm making a pattern of some show card. Looking like 3 parts to sew together at each side of center,plus a rear window I'll cut and do last,that will be a Oval shape like the Ford logo.
Idea is for the design to fold down by backing off the two wing bolts that hold windsheild header bow and fold it back,, or to remove completely pull the two bolts at the main bow/body an unsnap the 9 snaps around rear cockpit lip.
For myself,I don't care much for a top,so will not even have it on my rod except if it looks like rain ,I like better the looks of a roadster with no top at all,but facing the fact the wife hates getting totaly wet and water dose the upholstery no go0d ether.
Danger Danger Will Robertson,header bow must lock very solid to windsheild post,best if wingbolt has a small indent to screw into for safety=this design dose not have all the side brackets like a stock set.

 

Dana, where's a good place to get the wood piece across the back? T've got all sorts of metal working tools but not much more than a Skil saw in woodwoking stuff. Not too much skil in using them if I had them.
My roadster, almost road ready now, is a Brookville '30/31 "A" and the previous owner had also bought the polished SS frame to go with it, along with the front header wood piece.
I don't really like the appearance of an "A" with the top folded down, and I'm thinking along the same lines as you about just keeping the top in the shop and install only if going outta town with possibility of rain.
I'm assuming the back wood piece is formed by soaking the wood in hot water or steam? What kind of wood, if I find a wood working friend willing to tackle the job?

 

Dirty,,Wood along the back of cockpit I made myself,of some popler type wood from Home Depot,but there are kits you can buy.
There really is not much of a trick to doing it your self an is a nice place to put the snaps. My body is a 1928,but there somewhat alike ,but 30/31 is bigger.and 32 a little extra also.
I used a diskgrinder to ark out the bottom a little to fit the body and the rest was pretty EZ,made of three parts/not all one,and sand stain an varish.
Here is a kit for 30/31;http://macsautoparts.com/model-a-fo...wood-kits-trw14/camid/MDA/cp/JS0R3CHL1096535/
They have other years then you asked for,but thats your year 30/31

 

Dana, as much as everyone bad mouths the English roadster (sports car) they did have a top system that you might want to look at as it doesn't use a windshield header or a rear header. Instead they use tenex fasteners of which the studs stay with the car with a row on the windshield frame and a row across the back of the cockpit. The top cover is loose and kept folded in the trunk (boot) and the bows fold down against the rear of the cockpit. The webbing holding the bows in place only has to be fastened to the rear of the cockpit as the top cover takes care of the rest. Now all you need is side curtains. Top and side curtains store in the boot of my TR3 and keeps most of the cold air and water. The tenex fasteners can be found at any British sports car parts house (Victoria British, Moss, ect). Hope this helps.
Regards
Greg Hornbostel

 

Greg,maybe a good idea for someone,just not me. Would look wrong with those newer fancy parts.
I looked at a MG top some time back,but not EZ to mod and has little style for a hotrod like most little sporty cars..
Nice thing about old roadsters is the look to me.
As for storing away completly insted of just folding down in a pile at the back of cockpit. I beleve if ya have a trunk that can be still used on a hotrod,it's kind of smallish,but maybe,if the top bows and header were designed to fit together in there mid point=it could all fold up fairly small and be out of site.

 

Two top mount points need to be figured out ,,too even get strated on laying out your custom folding top,#1 is how to hook to your windsheild and #2 is how to hook top bows to your body.
Here are some ideas I'll pass along; To help you design something that fits best for your hotrod.
#1 header bow can be held with custom clamps or scocket and wingbolt{like I'm doing,also I've seem straps that run down the outside of widsheild frame to a bolt/bracket. All of them use a header bow that fits the top of windsheild a bit like a upside down "U" or "L" and can have some foam seal inside that.
#2There is a number of ways to hook the bows to the hotrod body. Ford "A" used kind of out in the open tab that just sticks up out of the side of cockpit a little behind the door openning,it works well. Older bodys like Ford "T" just had a bolt that stick out,out side of body/they can be seen on a lot of T-buckets that have tops;but most of those do not fold at all.
To hide the mount point for your bow when the top is not on your rod could be good for some. A few ideas along that line are; To have 2 femal seatbelts mounted flush with mouth at top of cockpit rail,and small hole in inside of upholstery to push buttom to unlock top bow .{top bow has mail side of seat belt as part of bow. Another way maybe to have only a 1/4in. or so hole showing in top lip of body that would receve a pin as part of bow mount,would be nice to use a brass gromet or a like, to finished off the hole and keep scratchs from happening..
Bending the EMT for top bows,I like looking at were the weld seam is inside the EMT and use that as the bottom/inside of my bends=they seem to come out better that way. I use a EMT 3/4in. hand n foot bender to do them.

 

This is great tech Dana, it will come in handy when doing a top for my roadster.

 

Thanks Jimmy B,
I'm not too good about putting this in order,but will try to put every thing,if something is missing someone needs,I'm hoping they ask.
Take note when planning the fabic that the driver can see out sideways,looking around you can see tops made were the fabic comes too far forword to left and right of drivers eyes. This Ford drawing shows how far back the stock top came. Drawing found on web is handy info.

 

Dana, you are the MAN!!!!!

As usual awesome stuff!!!!!!

 

Thanks,guys!
The first photo in post #3 is show card pattern work up{old pizza box works too],from there its make seam ideas an some testing on scrap to find out what can an can't be done with tools we have.
Preplanning is the key to not wasting fabic an fig. out, to know how much boarder to add to your patten for the seam you plan on using.
So here is my working out of seams to use. I played around trying to sew a few in def. ways=found out with this Sunbrela fabic, my little house sewingmachine can only really do 3 layers with any fairly good seams,so had to give up my idea of any 4 layer seams any place.{If you have a HD walking foot sewmachine no prob,but not on my $20 yard sale Sears Kenmore]. My work sheet may give ideas to anyone trying this too,even though it's not pretty,I marked ALT types that I ended up with. I'll add it;
One handy thing to pass along is;I think its good to face the showing lap side of any seam to the back of car an or down=more aero and water will have less chance of getting/driving into the seam going down the road,so that is a way I deside how to place a seam by air n water flow over its spot it will be..

 

I like your solution for the header.


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When I reread my note,I deside a drawing would make it a little more understandible.about water flow and aero at a seam.

 

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From post #12,
So this is the test with some scrap too see what can an can't be sewed with my Kenmore,each part is a type of seam I'm planning on using as noted on drawing.
The "A" alt is for lapping the parts together.
The "B"alt is the edge lip and I desided to run the lip on out side,that way it kind of makes a bit of a drain rail that may stop a little rain from running in on the door? we'll see?
One part was a test to see if I could sew the clear plastic rear window to a back flap,it worked. I did try to sew 4 layers,but didn't do well,so 3 layers is best design for my old Kenmore

 

With the showcard patterns made,I lay them out and remember to add the edges that needs to be folded an sew for seams. It's best to ruffly do all the parts with some soapstone{like for welding]it cleans off EZ, so you know you have enough fabric=with two yards of 60in.wide there was just enough with about 1sq. ft. left over.
When sewing these parts together I stapel the seam together off the sew line an pull the stapels out after,it helps me hold it all,but some times if my stapeling is not great,I need to pull them just b4 sew if a wrinkel starts to show. I admit to not always seeing this start to happen,and need to pull seam out now an then or just deside it's good enough.

 

After looking at it,sewing the sides together seemed best to do first. Here is how I stapeled the seams to get started on each of the 3 part sides

 

I got both sides sewed OK,checking a lot to be sure I was not making two rights or lefts,but one of each{yes I've done that type of screw up a few times playing with door panels.
Not perfect parts,but OK for my tools an my first try at a top. Now to add the center main top to this.

 

Awesome work...

Stupid question: Where does the top go when it's folded back? Not trying to be a smart ass, I'm genuinely curious.

 

"randy", I designed the bows to clear my head OK n still look good to me, { I'm 6ft.] n to fold in a fairly small pile together behind the cockpit rear lip vs sticking out back as much as a stock "A",they are not designed to hideaway in to a pocket like a new car. The idea is to use 2 straps around the pile to keep wind from wipping the fabic and making nosie behind your head when top is down. Mostly I will not have any of it on the rod,it really is for those trips a bit out of town when rain may happen. or my wife is riding along with rain poss above 10%,she not into wet much.
This is not something I've done before, an my misstakes should help keep others from a few mess's that can happen.
Should have a photo of it all folded down soon.

 

I'm making the rear window of the flexy plastic that newer rears are made of ,so it will fold with the rest into a smaller pile vs a real glass one/I don't have anyway. It would be EZer to make it sq. but I like the Ford oval shape ,it fits the rod design better ,just harder to sew{ i did not follow the edge as well as I'd like it,even this way. By sewing it into the big center panel first,it will be EZer to work with. After can add the 3part side panels to each side.
I folded 1/2in. of fabric over to the inside of the oval and contact glued it,so it would stay putt,then masking taped the oval window in place for sewing{the tape peels off after sew'ed],flipped it all over to sew from out side=can see were I'm sewing ,plan was to be about 1/4in. from edge all around,worked out to about that,but could of been better done.

 

To sew the sides to the center main part of top, I stapled the tabs together so they will line up right as I sew{if you sew nice and strait your less likely to get wringles,like I did get on one of the sides.
With the top mostly done,it was time to line up snaps between the top and wood lip at back of cockpit.
I desided to make the rear window open,but I should of planed that to start with,later I found out I had not left enough tab for the velco strips I added to the back window flap=had to add another 1in. extra to the side so they fit better/could of used a zipper or even make buttons or snaps that would be much harder to get to line up,but the velco I had is fastist for a top I'm going to not used all the time and dose not need to look stock Ford.

 

Adding the top to the bows after the rear lip snapes are on,I pulled the top forword as much as I could an added two staples just to hold it as I adjusted the bow into the right place{making the bolt lock them in place. That gave me away to pull harder on top,getting it on to woodheader bow so I could put staples in on under side of header about every 2in.s or less and tucking the corners of fabric like making your bed/then cut an trim to look nice.
To besure that the 2 back bows stay in there place,I put 2 Stainless steel screws in each bow down through the top{these are with SS finishing washers and under that is nylon washers to keep the finishing washer from cutting the fabric an hold it well to bow. I may add more screws later along the bows.
Remeber before trying to fold top to let off the bow bolts some so they fold EZ.

 

Note in last photo above,that ya can see my misstake on rear window flap was not wide enough,so I added extra to move velco into the right place.

 

Here is what it looks like all folded down ,but I don't have my straps made yet to hold the bundel together at speed.
There ya go time for a beer!

 

Feel free to ask about anything I failed to be clear on or didn't cover!

 

Dana, Is there anything that you Can Not Do ??? You always seem to accomplish the most while working with the least. You should win an award for determination and follow through. Your build is certainly Traditional. Back in the day if you did not have it, could not afford it then you built it !!! You are an Inspiration......Thanks, Jeff

 

Very well done!

 

Nice job on the Top!

Thank You, also for posting the tech required for the job, this is what makes the HAMB Great!