I may be in for '06, my accountant/wife's misappropriation of my tax refund has depleted my hot rod reserves...again but I have most of the ingredients already
Question. Square tubing frame or round pipe frame? The ole' banger motor is not going to put out alot of torque, but a bare bones frame with just a roll cage. We are trying to figure out what style of frame to run. The "T" frame would need to be boxed for a safety issue, in case something would break going down the track. Chris Nelson Kansas Oh yea, Sam. My dad and I are putting this together to build and run at MOKAN this year. It makes me chuckle how much this post has inspired alot of people to build a "Rail Banger".
Chris... You could run a model a frame or a T frame without boxing... but the structure around the driver needs to be round tube. In fact, I plan on running A rails... and then a roll bar in back that is just braced to the front. I will then tie the tubes together with a tube inside the frame rail. So basically the main hoop behind your head will weld to the bottom channel of the frame and not to the top of the frame. Sam.
OK, I just bought a T frame for a whopping 25 bucks. I thought I had a front end from an A lined up, but I can't find the link right now. What do I need, an early rear end, flatty and 3-spd, some tubing for a roll cage, a fire suit, helmet, gloves, etc., a buddy with a trailer...what am I missing?
That's just about it! The toughest things that you'll have to do are shorten the torque tube drive line... (but it can be done) and the bending of the roll bar. If you guys want... you can always draw a picture of your ideas, post them here and then we all can hash things out. I would basically start with the basic frame... then go from there... Just remember though... protect the driver from fire, water and oil... and keep his limbs inside the thing if it roll over. Sam.
I'm stull building one. 2x4 Rails kicked front and rear. Old chromed banjo. Late 40's front end. Box assembled from '39 spares. Motor to be pulled from what I drove down there.
Build it with a tow bar and a matching hitch on the rear perch of the roadster--then set it up to function as a trailer to carry the A-frame and slicks to the race. A self-contained tandem combination machine...the exact opposite of a useless cutesy streetrod trailer.
I've got an A frame and an F1. Unfortunately the flat head was removed before I had a say in it. How hard is it to find a running flat V8?
I'm getting jazzed about this; I've read through this thread about five times! These rules sound good to me. Are you talking about a funny car-style cage or just a simple loop with forward- and rearward-reaching stringers? This is one of those "how high is up" kind of questons, but is important depending on how fast these Parasites will be running. Me, I'm going to have a complete cage - I don't care how "un-period" it will look, I'm more interested in saving my neck if something unexpected happens. Besides, I'm used to sitting in a F/C cage!
Eh, while I'm at it, a couple more questions: 1. Front brakes - required or optional? 2. What about more "modern" transmissions behind that flatty? Would a 3-speed from a '60s Ford be OK if I can't find a reasonably priced early Ford box? 3. Self-starting or can I use an external battery box? 4. Some sanctioning bodies require lights for running at night. Yes or No? It's late, I'm going to bed (the muscle relaxants are kicking in...)
OK, maybe just one more (man, I'm pumped about this): 5. Current certification on seat belts? 6. Who's going to be the "safety czar" for these buggers? 7. Scatter-proof bellhousings? Safety blankets for the clutch/tranny? How high is up? How safe is safe?
Those are all good questions and things I will include in a complete e-mail tomorrow. But... Front brakes are not required... but rear, "juice" brakes are. Modern trannys are a-ok by me. I think we would prefer self staring... but man... we can talk about the pros and cons of this. The pros of self staring are that if it dies... you won't have to sit out ther for ten minutes while the battery man fetches a battery. The cons are... magnetos are cool. I'm going to add "1 working tail light" to the rules... thanks. As far as seat belts are concerned... I think we'll go by the NHRA rules for this and require belts that are up to date. But if a guy shows up with old aircraft seat belts... or lap belt... we'll just have to see how fast he runs... like, if he's clicking off 17's at 65mph... it's ok... but if he's running 12's at 106... uh, maybe he'll be relagated to 1/8 mile runs. To tell you the truth though, it's the tracks call. Just err on the side of caution with this one, please. The track will... but I am available to answer any questions WHILE you're building it. Just an e-mail or PM... or phone call. After much thought, I think it would be a good idea if we limit the tire to a 6" wide bias ply street tire... no slicks. That will safe on keyed axles, clutches and u-joints. A scatter proof bell housing will not be required... but I'd build some sort if shield for your feet. I would not advise any side stepping of the clutch at 5 grand though... Oh, and as far as a roll cage is concerned... if these things are running in the 14 or 13 second range... at say 100mph... I think a roll bar, above your mellon, along with a support to the front would be good. Back brace for the seat, and some side panels to keep your limbs in would be good. I don't know how people feel about safety gear, but I;d like to see everyone with a full face helmet and a fire jacket and gloves at the least. Any ideas? More to come... Sam.
Sam, I haven't read all your posts in this thread, sorry I've been up all night chaseing rules for a differtent sanctioning body. But here's my thoughts. If your tires and suspension are up to snuff its not likely you're going to roll a 17 second rail. Roll bar a must anyway. But if we're talking 11 second or lower cars at the very least arm restraints are a must. Probably nuthin fancy maybe allow some made from some old seatbelts. If I recall from when I was real little at the abandoned air strip races if you died in the lights you missed your pass. So I don't see that starting under your own power to be a must either. Part of raceing is tuneing, if it dies in the lights just get back in line. No one can see you blush under your skid lid and goggles anyway. I think if everyone follows the basic saftey rules that MOKAN lays down no one should die from raceing. Right?
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