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HA/GR in Minnesota

Discussion in 'HA/GR' started by bobw, Jan 14, 2009.

  1. bobw
    Joined:
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    Stillwater,MN

    bobw Member

    [​IMG]
    For a year now I've watched this site, occasionally threw in some comments and wrestled with building or not building a HA/GR. I've got too many cars now. But, the draw of the HA/GR philosophy is too much to overcome. Yesterday I set my T frame, early Ford front suspension and 9" rear end in place.
    Last edited: Jan 14, 2009
  2. bobw
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    Stillwater,MN

    bobw Member

    [​IMG]
    Today I put in a front crossmember, suicide perch, and front spring mounts.
  3. bobw
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    bobw Member

    [​IMG]
    The plan is to leave the wisbone whole and put a stock ball mount in place. It's off to Little Dearborn tomorrow for parts. I'm planning on 10 degrees of caster, unless anyone with a HA/GR has a better number based on their experience. All suggestions and comments are appreciated.
    I made my first pass down a drag strip in 1957, but never ran a great deal. For the last 6 years I've run a couple times a year at a 1/8 mile track with my 406 sbc powered Crosley/Fiat. It had a glass Fiat body on it until last year when I replaced it with a Crosley Wagon body.
    One of the bigger design problems I might have is makng the car fit my 5'6" height and my Grandson's 6'1" body. I need to be able to reach the pedals.:D
  4. REJ
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    REJ Member

    I'm running 10 degrees on my HA/GR and it handles fine. I have actually let go of the steering wheel at 95 mph and it goes straight as if it is on rails.
    You should be fine with that.
    Also looks like you are off to a great start.
    Welcome to the madness!!
    Robert
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  5. esfoder
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    esfoder Member

    Hey looks like a great start!! What kind of power are you going to use?

    Dusty

    P.S. Is it cold over there??
  6. Rand Man
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    Rand Man Member

    Yer off to a great start! What motor?
  7. bobw
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    bobw Member

    esfoder, While I'd like to use something that fits the era real well (mid-fifties engine), my finances dictate that a slant six will give me the most bang for the buck. I've spent a fair amount of time on the Slant 6 site and it appears they are fairly easily modified and don't have many inherent problems.
    I've got 2 292 Chevy 6's in the corner, but they don't qualify and they are quite expensive to modify.
  8. Toymaker
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    Fresno,CA

    Toymaker Member

    GREAT start, once you have it rolling it's all down hill :D
  9. 64 DODGE 440
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    64 DODGE 440
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Looking good, nice to see another coming together.
  10. GrayGhost
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    Location:
    Tucson Az.

    GrayGhost Member

    Noticed yoiu first raced in 1957 Was that at Minnesota Dragways in Anoka/Coon Rapids?
  11. Joe Hamby
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    broken arrow, Ok.

    Joe Hamby Member

    Bobw, If you use the slant 6, you can get a double roller timing chain from Clifford's. I switched to one after I broke a stock one at a little past 7500 rpm. Joe
  12. bobw
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    bobw Member

    Gray Ghost, Minn. Dragways wasn't built until about 1960. I started at Twin City Speedway which was a great place. No tech, no sactioning body, the owner made up the classes to suit the racers and it was cheap. You could almost reach out and touch the cars as they went by. I look at pics of MoKan (which is much safer) and the strip where Day of the Drags is run in Texas and I remember the good old drag racing days.
    Joe, thanks for the tip.
  13. ThingyM
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    LaMirada Cal.

    ThingyM Member

    Hell slap one of those 292 Chevs in there and use the $$$ you would use to buy something else on a rebuild.. Unless you are out to be a record setter..Im using a 194 chev.. But in a light car..
  14. Drewfus
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    Drewfus Member

    great to see that even after the long 'think period' you're keen to get involved, hats off to you.

    Now, great decision on the driveline, if nothing else, may I suggest you find a running slant, drop it between the rails, and DO NOT 'tinker' with the engine until at least you've done one pass in the car, as time and time again I see people get so lost in the dream of trying to hot up their engine they loose sight of what a blast these cars can be with some basic parts.

    Sure, I know you will want to go out there guns-a-blazing, but, in the mean time, build it, K.I.S.S. and have fun, get your family and friends involved in some way shape, or form, and enjoy these cars for what they are.

    Cheers,

    Drewfus
    Last edited: Jan 15, 2009
  15. bobw
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    bobw Member

    Drewfus, your advice is well taken. I want to thank you publicly for providing very helpful and prompt information to the PM's I sent you during the last year.

    Today it was 21 below zero (f) when I walked the dog. So I didn't get much done in the garage because it's too costly to heat. I did go to the steel yard and get a piece of 3/16" aluminum plate to make friction shocks. Also picked up the wishbone ball socket items and got the wishbone crossmember 90% built before my hands and feet got too cold.

    I'm planning on adapting a 340 small block sfi bellhousing to the slant. Also will need a sfi flywheel and clutch. That won't leave much money for engine modifications the first year. I have a friend who won the lottery. I wonder if he would like his name on the side of the car? Hmmm...
  16. Drewfus
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    Drewfus Member

    You're welcome sir, anytime, here to help.

    One thing I forgot to mention, whilst I know you've got it already, and it's well up to the task, don't you think the 9" is overkill, and dare I say a bit of a waste on a car such as this?

    Cheers, and glad to see you'r chipping away at the project,

    Drewfus
  17. Joe Hamby
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    broken arrow, Ok.

    Joe Hamby Member

    Hi BobW I just ordered a SFI slant 6 flywheel Tuesday 1-13-08, McCloud Industries is going to make it. Mine is a 122 tooth. 401.03 dollers. They did not have a steel pressure plate, all that they had was a cast Borg and Beck. Be sure and increase your oil capacity if you do anything to the motor. Joe
  18. bobw
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    bobw Member

    [​IMG]
    I managed to get the garage above freezing so I did a little work. Here is the crossmember for the wishbone mount. The black parts are a reproduction '32-'34 wishbone mount kit.
  19. bobw
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    Stillwater,MN

    bobw Member

    [​IMG]
    Here it is tacked in place with the wishbone connected.
  20. bobw
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    bobw Member

    [​IMG]
    With a hole saw I made some 3" discs out of 1/8' steel plate and tacked them on the front of the frame rails.
  21. bobw
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    Stillwater,MN

    bobw Member

    [​IMG]
    Out of 3/16" aluminum plade I sabersawed some friction shock arms.

    Drewfus, yep, the 9" rear end is overkill, but I have it and I have a 3.70 gear with an Auburn limited slip ready to go. I realize a deeper gear might be needed in the future, but right now it's a matter of using what I have.

    A request: can someone tell me, or tell me where to find out, the overall length of a slant six? And the length of a bellhousing and an overdrive 4 speed? I can't get to my donor vehicle for a while and fabrication will come to a rapid halt without that information. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
  22. 348chevy
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    348chevy Member

    You know 2B Banjo and Cowboy Bob have Model T frame rails and they boxed theirs for strength. I don't know how strong the frame is but you don't want a flexible flyer. That old metal cracks when it is flexed.:eek: Roy
  23. bobw
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    Stillwater,MN

    bobw Member

    It will be fully boxed. In 1964 I stuffed my Thames into the guard rail at the dragstrip. It was built super light and was very unsafe. Ever since then I've tried to overbuild everything. Thanks for the reminder though.
  24. bobw
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    Stillwater,MN

    bobw Member

    [​IMG]
    I cut the Model T rear crossmember and extended the frame with 1 1/2" by 3" rectangular tubing.
  25. bobw
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    Stillwater,MN

    bobw Member

    [​IMG]
    The rear crossmember is 1 3/4" dia. tubing. Looks like I'll be bending tubing next week.
    I sure could use the overall length dimension of a Mopar overdrive 4 speed and bellhousing so I can set the firewall location. Anyone out there got one in the garage you could check? Oh, also the overall length of a slant six would be very usefull. Thanks in advance.
    Bob
  26. bobw
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    Stillwater,MN

    bobw Member

    [​IMG]
    Got the plates to weld to the rear axle made. Put thick wall tubing through the frame to prevent crushing.
  27. bobw
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    Stillwater,MN

    bobw Member

    [​IMG]
    The plates are bolted in place with 5/8" bolts. I've since put some 1 1/2" holes in the plates to make them "prettier" and cut a few ounces.

    I need advice regarding the driveshaft. Is it better to connect the trans slip yoke directly to the third member yoke or to have 2 u-joints? Or, doesn't it matter? I want to keep it as close coupled as possible.
  28. 348chevy
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    Humansville,Mo

    348chevy Member

    You will not have enough room for you if you get it to far back. I tried that already. You need foot room and room for your body which will dictate about a 20 inch drive shaft give or take a few inches. If you get a chair and set it where your going to sit and then sit in the chair and see where your feet are going to be. Lots of people who are building or have cars have pictures doing just that.:) Roy
  29. Drewfus
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    Drewfus Member

    Yep, I think you are talking a mimimum shaft length of around the 16-18" (will compare dimensions with my 3 speed tonight:rolleyes::D:)).

    I know when I was building my cage, and positioning the engine etc, I thought I had plenty of room, but it soon vanishes when you start including required clutch pedal swing, and relate that to where you want your feet to be whilst using brake and accelerator.

    Will get some ballpark measurements tonight for you.

    Cheers,

    Drewfus
  30. bobw
    Joined:
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    Stillwater,MN

    bobw Member

    This information is very valuable to me. Building without an engine & trans in hand is a big problem. Although I'm quite experienced at building hot rods and have built one Altered chassis, there are issues with a HA/GR that you guys have faced and solved. Based on this info it looks like I might have to trash the center wishbone mount and split the bones to get the engine at a good elevation. All suggestions are appreciated.
    What is a good firewall to seat back dimension?

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