Well, pistons all came out to 3.1855-3.1865 at the skirts, which all fall into spec according to my manual. We're waiting on the block to be cleaned more before we take cylinder measurements. I other news, the chrome is getting removed for paint. We've agreed to delete the trim around the car. That said, we may have some trim to barter with. I wonder if Shoebox-Central would take some stuff in trade? We'll still be needing a few things from them soon...
Wouldn't hurt to ask. What are you going to be needing? I'm sure if you put it on here or in the classifieds or in the shoebox social forum (you ARE a member of the social forum, aren't you?) you could find HAMBers willing to help out or trade.
Well, now that we wont need trim, our list will be shorter. Engine mounts, door/ign. keys/cylinders, drivers door glass and vent glass would be nice, flux capacitor, and other various items... Those are just what come to mind. Headliner is still a big deal. Sadly, my students took it out and I didn't get to watch, I still do not fully comprehend the process of how we will be installing it. We still need to buy carpet and wind lace material as well. And probably a large assortment of rubber weatherstripping... (Anyone know of a cheap alternative to the regular weatherstripping options? How about for around taillights, trunk latch, etc. I feel like that will nickel and dime us if we replaced everything that needs it.) I should stop typing... it looks more expensive the longer I think about it. P.s. piston rings, likely bearings, and gaskets... pray to God not water pump(s)...
Waterpumps are pretty much a given. For the weatherstripping etc. check with Restoration Specialties.
Headliner info... http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...rd-to-make-from-scratch.953771/#post-10867435
Don't burst my bubble... Are these things rebuildable, feasibly? Or moreso, easily? I saw an article that looked like it was a tough endeavor. From what I saw they are over $100 each, so not replacing them would be nice. And thanks for the link!
So, that link helped with the headliner, but what I don't get (maybe I'm just slow) is how the metal strips that screw in work. Again, the students got it apart before I had a chance to see. From what I can tell, the headliner wraps around under the bottom of these strips, but then I'm confused as to how you screw the strips in if the headliner is installed, because the screws would be covered by the headliner? OR, do you install the strips and then the headliner is just shoved up under the strips? That'd make sense I guess. Second quicky- Windlace goes on first, then headliner, correct?
You guessed it right. You tuck the headliner under and behind the metal strip. They use a tool much like a putty knife only rounded off and very smooth. The Wizzard
Excellent! I'm thinking about just reusing my wind lace and painting it black using a vinyl dye spray. There are only a few spots that need repair.
Anyone have any special tips on valve removal on an old engine like this? I don't know if the green bible was written to accommodate 50 years of sitting... Another question, kids wanted me to ask, what would you guys consider a mild performance build on these engines? What would be some of the cheaper options if we wanted to sneak an extra 20hp out of this engine?
I think you need a tool called a pickle fork, not sure what those look like or where to get one. I'm still learning myself on a lot of this stuff. The thing to remember about flatheads is that it's not necessarily about the horsepower, it's more about the torque. Yes, stock these only made about 100hp but that was backed up with 170 lb-ft of torque. That being said, probably your best bet for a cost-effective mild performance increase would be going to a 2x2 or 4-barrel setup, having the cam reground to a performance grind (about $75), and maybe milling the heads to bump the compression ratio up. Anything above that would probably require more displacement and aftermarket parts. Others may have different opinions but that's what I'd go for.
Here's some videos on valve removal: and the required tools as well as a little more info: http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/flathead_valveremoval_tools-1.htm
Never even thought about a cam grind. Can you really grind a stock cam into performance? Seems like you'd need a bigger starting point. (I know little about cam grinding, other than it is above my head and that it's for pros and not me ) Good build info though. I appreciate it. I've looked into intakes and carbs, but that adds up fast. I'd figure we'd be super lucky to get a carb/intake combo for $500 I did find an article where someone just used a traditional spring compressor. I may try that.
@Pete1 is the guy to talk to about all flathead cam questions. He's been in the business for over 60 years, he'll know what to do with it. From what I understand, it's possible. There is a place I know several HAMBers have gone to in Tacoma, WA called Delta Camshafts, that may be closer and more convenient for you. If I remember correctly, they'll do a regrind for about $100. I'd probably recommend an Isky 1007B grind, but Pete may chime in with a different recommendation. As far as induction goes, use Holley 94 carbs. They're what came on the car originally, and a lot less expensive than Strombergs. Hot Rod magazine did a comparison of intake manifolds a couple of years ago, and several of them were available for decent prices. The one I'll eventually end up using is probably the Offenhauser Regular Dual, it's around $225. Keep an eye on the Parts for Sale section here on the HAMB or on Ford Barn, good new or lightly used parts tend to pop up from time to time. I'm not an expert, and if anything's wrong someone feel free to correct me.
Yes, regrinding a Cam is pretty common. Kenny at Oregon Cam grinding has also been at it over 40 years. I've been using him since day one. He is also a Ford guy and active Drag Racer. I currently have 5 rigs with his cams in them. He's just north of Portland Oregon. Flathead stuff is very special to him. He really knows how to make them perform. The Wizzard
"I've Got Friends In Low Places" just started playing in my head... We'll be in touch. I'm out a few days, beautiful baby girl was born last night. Once back, my boys will finish up cleaning the block. We've got a HOT water line running to a pressure washer. It is working quite nicely. I'll keep my eyes open for a new intake. That may also depend on whether this becomes a longer term project, or a short one...
Anyone have an objection to buying NOS old Ford standard sized rings as opposed to a newer aftermarket ring?
Send me a PM if you need flathead valve bar and a keeper hook. I have both and won't need 'em anymore.
Water pump question- If we need new water pumps, can we use a 52 pump on a 49? We'd have pully problems? I've just noticed that the later year ones are cheaper...
http://www.flatheadv8.org/Waterpump/pump.htm http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/engine-partsprices-pg4.htm here is something that might help
I had seen that rebuild article before. That's where I learned (figured) that the 49s were more expensive because they're hard (near impossible?) to rebuild. But that's a new part site for me, so thanks! New question (they'll never cease)- What's a good air cleaner solution? We've got the oil bath type. We've been soaking it in solvent. It's been sitting for 60 years... so you might call it a bit gummed up. Are there new style paper drop ins that fit in a stock (stock looking) housing? Should we keep trying to clean this thing out?
Wow! Congrats on having your students work on such a neat project. It's something they will never forget. As a retired high school shop teacher, I know your challenges are many.
Worth mentioning. We came up with an effective procedure for getting these stuck valves/guides out. For the most part, we had no problem using a traditional valve spring compressor to compress the springs and remove the keepers. We then could just slide all the valves out. Next were the very stuck valve guides. We ended up just tapping the guide down into the hole some, which allowed up to easily remove the "lock". We then, on the very stuck ones, had to basically just keep tapping on the guide, eventually it would start wiggling up and down. Once it seemed semi free, we just pried up on the valve spring and it would pop out the guide. Or record was hitting our 20ft ceiling with a valve guide. We had a couple others shoot out with force, but most of them just popped up a bit. Either way, once we had a method down, they all started coming out with ease.
OK, looking like we will be needing oversized pistons. So, off to find the best deal on pistons. Any suggestions? If we had the ability to knurl them, we might have tried, but not sure who nearby would do that...
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/1939-...-Ring-Pistons-3-3-4-Stroke-060-Over,1855.html bout the cheapest out there there are some nos and used on ebay
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