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Front End Help! Dropped I Beam Model A Tudor Sedan

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by mason71, Nov 20, 2011.

  1. mason71
    Joined: Aug 27, 2009
    Posts: 96

    mason71
    Member
    from Edmond, OK

    Hi, My name is Mason and I am in the process of building a Tudor 31 Model A Sedan Hot Rod.

    I really need some help with my front end. I only have ideas of what i want to do but can't put it all together to make it a complete front end. We are going to be building the frame so the variables are countless. I have an empty Christmas list and was hoping to fill it will some front end parts with some help.

    For sure I do know I would like to run split wish bones, traditional cowl steering (with the tie rod behind the axle), and a dropped I beam. I am not sure if I will go spring above or spring behind. The thing I like about the spring behind is that I would not have to have my frame built up so high to mount the perch. But the other thing I like about the spring above is it brings the front end of the car closer to the engine (I like that stub nose look, photo 1). My car is going to be low and I would like for the frame to be as low as far up front as possible (like photo 2) While we are at photo 2 do you have any experience doing this reverse spring set up (see photo 3 also)? I would love to do this if it's possible and reasonably safe. I have done a little research here on the HAMB about this and it doesn't seem to be a popular set up so there isn't much info on it. What do you think?

    If I did the spring behind I really like the idea used in photo 4, 5 & 6 (Scootermcrad's awesome car!) cause it doesn't take front end length for the radiator (photo 4, 5, 6) Does that make since? I would like the front in short not stretched out, so am afraid this would be too stretched out overall.

    Photos 7 and 8 are my inspiration / finished car goals. Notice the short nose on both cars, I like the low frame in photo 8, don't like the high frame in photo 7. You will have to excuse the photo-shoppness of both.

    Thanks for any help
     

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  2. Mat Thrasher
    Joined: Nov 5, 2007
    Posts: 1,168

    Mat Thrasher
    Member

    I'm with you in that I like the look of a low frame. I did my front end with a dropped axle and spring behind mounted to split bones. You don't have to push the front end out any more then you want. You can just move the crossmember back. Just mount the motor high enough to clear the crossmember.

    One thing with the dropped axle is you're going to have to run the deep drop steering arms. On mine the draglink is real close to the spring and shackles. Nothing hits but it's close.

    Depending on how tall your front tires are, you might be able to use an undropped axle. I could of on mine. I have room left to go lower in my crossmember.
     

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  3. Pics 7&8 both have the engine set back, more so on that crazy hemi with the underslung spring.
    7 has a sweep up at the front starting at the cowl.

    The doan Spencer roadster has a 4" z in the frame right at the crossmember. Looks low all the way up to the tire. Search it here. It's hard to see in the pics sounds like what your looking for even has cowl steering..
     
  4. Pics 7&8 both have the engine set back, more so on that crazy hemi with the underslung spring.
    7 has a sweep up at the front starting at the cowl.

    The doan Spencer roadster has a 4" z in the frame right at the crossmember. Looks low all the way up to the tire. Search it here. It's hard to see in the pics sounds like what your looking for even has cowl steering..
     

  5. designs that work
    Joined: Aug 29, 2005
    Posts: 411

    designs that work
    Member

    On my 26 modified the spring is mounted to a simple reverse suicide perch. Front crossmember is 2 x 2 tubing with a 3/8" plate in the engine area or pointing to the rear of the car. This keeps the front wheels close to the radiator center line. Notched the bottom of the frame rails for axle clearence. Check out my album there are pics of the front end.
     
    Last edited: Nov 20, 2011
  6. mason71
    Joined: Aug 27, 2009
    Posts: 96

    mason71
    Member
    from Edmond, OK

    Wow, thanks for the reply and your truck is awesome! Whats it like with the solid mounted motor bolted to the frame? Is it pretty shaky? What steering arms do you have, where did you get them?

    I am trying to figure out how you could run a flat / straight axle and still be low to the ground? This could definitely be an option because I plan to run fairly tall fronts (unless you meant shorter fronts). I think I understand what you mean by raising the cross member...

    Love the front wheels, are they 17" or 18" did you have them narrowed or did you buy them like that?


    Yes my engine will be set back into the cowl, not sure yet how far... I haven't seen that car before, thanks!

    Thanks for the idea, however I couldn't really get a good grasp on the concept by looking at your pictures. Do you have any more?



    Thanks again for the responses and ideas! Is there anyone else with some ideas?
     
  7. Mat Thrasher
    Joined: Nov 5, 2007
    Posts: 1,168

    Mat Thrasher
    Member

    I really don't notice any vibration at all. I think everybody that makes a big deal about solid mounts on the street has never run them. The steering arms are just the deep drop ones from speedway.

    The best thing do is get the wheels and tires you are going to run. Mock everything up body, motor, and wheels. Then everything will fall into place. If you look at my set up. You can see how I built a drop it the crossmember. If I wanted to go lower I could of made it completely flat. Also if you look at my spring perches those are flipped up. If I wanted to I could flip those around to make it lower. But I have a feeling my draglink would hit the spring.

    My fronts are 15" x 4". I found them Ebay.
     
  8. designs that work
    Joined: Aug 29, 2005
    Posts: 411

    designs that work
    Member

    This picture shows the reverse suicide mount. Enlarge this picture, between the radiator hoses and in front of the crank pulley.
     

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