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frame jig height???

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by I_be_moose, Aug 20, 2006.

  1. Getting ready to fab up a frame jig. What is the best height to set it up for? I don't need the measurement as that might vary person to persaon. What I am interested is is waist high or something like that. Gonna be set up at first to do a deuce style frame but plan to make it adjustable for other styles...

    Thanks

    Tim
     
  2. 32"
     
    Last edited: Feb 28, 2011
  3. Roadsters.com
    Joined: Apr 9, 2002
    Posts: 1,782

    Roadsters.com
    Member

    A hot rod chassis jig can be at elbow height, with provision for working from underneath or flipping the frame upside-down.

    If you're building something for a race car with a cage, a height of around two feet is easier to work with.

    Dave
    http://www.roadsters.com/
     
  4. HemiRambler
    Joined: Aug 26, 2005
    Posts: 4,208

    HemiRambler
    Member

    Hey Tim, I'd set it so that when seated you can comfortably weld your brackets/cross members/etc on. Being able to get under it is a very nice advantage. FWIW I did the digger at about 36" - seemed pretty comfortable to me.

    BTW the slickest chassis jig I ever saw was a simple beam (large heavy beam) that had crossmembers that slid forward/backward - it allowed virtually 360 access to the chassis during construction. You simply positioned the crossmembers to the appropriate locations and had nothing else in your way. Food for thought maybe.
     

  5. TimDavis
    Joined: Sep 4, 2005
    Posts: 718

    TimDavis
    Member

    32" to the top of the table(bottom of the rails) - Good working height for me at 6' tall.
     

    Attached Files:

  6. 35ratbstr
    Joined: Feb 18, 2006
    Posts: 491

    35ratbstr
    Member
    from Colorado

    You might consider a surface plate rather than a I-beam jig. the surface plate is handy because you can scripe a center line and work from there. i am building a track t on one right know and it has been great. i tacked rectagular tubing on the surface and set my frame rails on it. you would want to make it long and wide enough to put a complete front or rear on. it makes it handy to run a square around on for measurements. i could post a few pictures in a few days if you have any interest?
     
  7. TimDavis
    Joined: Sep 4, 2005
    Posts: 718

    TimDavis
    Member

    I agree with 35 -

    The surface table is great for building the rest of the chassis - a stanchioned jig is really only good to get a perimeter frame together. If you are building a simple ladder style chassis ( model A-type), you can get away with doing the whole thing on the surface table.

    Building a '32 chassis with stamped rails requires some fixed-type jig to correctly locate the rails themselves before you can start building anything. New lengths of 2x4 box tubing is perfectly straight - the stamped '32 rails are not even the same side to side or from one to the next.
     
  8. hammeredabone
    Joined: Apr 18, 2001
    Posts: 737

    hammeredabone
    Member

    My table is open and 36" High. It is 9' long and 36" wide. I like it open I can get under and inside the frame I am working on. I have made 2by2 stantions that hold the axles up. I can set the frame at ride height. I have done my friends modified frame and it has worked out very well, it has wheels and is moved around with little effort. Next frame will be a 32.
     

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