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Ford Flathead V8 Oil Filter

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by tom1000, Oct 27, 2012.

  1. tom1000
    Joined: Sep 9, 2008
    Posts: 19

    tom1000
    Member
    from Houston TX

    Anyone know of a Flathead builder in or near the Houston TX area that can modify the Flathead block to improve the oil filtering? I have a '49 8BA motor.
    Attached image is what I want to have done to the block.


    20121027_110504_816x612.jpg
     
  2. 40FordGuy
    Joined: Mar 24, 2008
    Posts: 2,909

    40FordGuy
    Member

    This will work as shown. You may have to install a restricter in the line going TO the oil filter, in order to maintain oil pressure. I used a brass plug, with a .040 orifice. The 8BA blocks have a return fitting just above the pan rail on driver side, which will work. The system shown will also work, if you don't wish to route the return around exhaust headers.

    4TTRUK
     
  3. tom1000
    Joined: Sep 9, 2008
    Posts: 19

    tom1000
    Member
    from Houston TX

    Thanks 40FordGuy. I'm looking for someone to do the machine work, know anyone?
     
  4. Dale Fairfax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2006
    Posts: 2,586

    Dale Fairfax
    Member

    The system shown in the diagram is a "partial full flow" which means full oil pump pressure is routed to/thru the filter and back to the engine's oil galleys. No restrictor is required. You are referring to the factory "bypass" system which does require a restrictor ahead of the filter and merely dumps the filtered oil back into the pan by gravity.



     
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  5. fiftyv8
    Joined: Mar 11, 2007
    Posts: 3,491

    fiftyv8
    Member
    from CO & WA

  6. flat 39
    Joined: Dec 31, 2007
    Posts: 131

    flat 39
    Member

    Installing the filter system shown above is best done during an engine rebuilt. The block needs to be drilled and taped which will result in chips will get into places that will do serious damage.
     
  7. treb11
    Joined: Jan 21, 2006
    Posts: 2,006

    treb11
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I bet Danny up at <cite>www.brucesrodshop.com/</cite> in Spring can help you out
     
  8. Hey Carl, got any info fro a flathead Cadillac engine, since you have been involved with Buddy's engine?

    Na only involvement with me was to watch her make HP on the Dyno and shirt support for Buddy, plus mental support for Buddy and crew..... you need to talk to Buddy...........my expertise is in Henry's bent eight <!-- / message --><!-- sig -->
     
  9. 40FordGuy
    Joined: Mar 24, 2008
    Posts: 2,909

    40FordGuy
    Member

    doing the extra machine work to enable "full flow" oil filtering isn't really necessary.....realistically, all the oil makes it thru the filter at some point, and most rodders change oil more regularly and often the most folks. To use the set up you show in the first post,. just put in the "grub screw" as shown; You need that to separate the "in" and return flows to and from the filter. Just remember to put the .040" orifice plug in the "in" line to the filter. It is needed to maintain oil pressure. The way i did that was to thread a plug into the fitting going out, TO the filter, and then drill it to .040". No machine shop work needed.

    4TTRUK
     
  10. 40FordGuy
    Joined: Mar 24, 2008
    Posts: 2,909

    40FordGuy
    Member

    Ps; That method is from Red Hamilton, (Red's headers) and it works great.

    4TTRUK
     
  11. 40FordGuy
    Joined: Mar 24, 2008
    Posts: 2,909

    40FordGuy
    Member

    Dale Fairfax,.... The factory filter can had that restriction built into the inlet port, on the side of the cannister;...Which I had forgotten about, until talking with Red about a lack of o.p during initial cranking. (I didn't fire it that way!) Since I opted for a "spin-on" filter, the restricter orifice was missing......
    Happy Roddin' to all !!!!!!!!!!!

    4TTRUK
     
  12. "doing the extra machine work to enable "full flow" oil filtering isn't really necessary.....realistically, all the oil makes it thru the filter at some point, and most rodders change oil more regularly and often the most folks. To use the set up you show in the first post,. just put in the "grub screw" as shown; You need that to separate the "in" and return flows to and from the filter. Just remember to put the .040" orifice plug in the "in" line to the filter. It is needed to maintain oil pressure. The way i did that was to thread a plug into the fitting going out, TO the filter, and then drill it to .040". No machine shop work needed."

    do not put oriface into the supply line to the filter the only time you need a restriction is in the stock ford filter where the discharge goes into the pan, on the 95% filter system you do not put any restriction in the system in fact I even drill a 9 1/6 bit into the verticle line from the pump to the gallery to open up the flow volume to the filter........
     
  13. tig master
    Joined: Apr 9, 2009
    Posts: 409

    tig master
    Member
    from up north


    This is correct when converting to a spin on filter 95% there is no restriction in the line that feeds the filter from the block.If there was then all the oil to the spin would have to pass through a .060" hole before entering the filter..You would end up with a serious oil starvation problem and engine failure.Pay heed to this info..The restriction is only for a bypass filter the way the old cartridge filters were from the factory.

    My2¢

    T
     
  14. 296 V8
    Joined: Sep 17, 2003
    Posts: 4,682

    296 V8
    BANNED
    from Nor~Cal

    If I understand what your saying.
    Plug the supply port (like the diagram) and return the oil to the pan like the partial system / not drill the return to the system hole and try to push 95 percent of the oil out the 1/8 hole and fitting to the filter and dump it back in the pan.

    REALLY?
     
  15. tig master
    Joined: Apr 9, 2009
    Posts: 409

    tig master
    Member
    from up north

    Here is step by step for a 95% spin on filter conversion
    http://www.flatheadv8.org/filter.htm
    If this is your objective no orifice re stricter
    Can't tell you what 40 ford guy has but its not this.
    T
     
  16. Mike Britton
    Joined: Feb 16, 2007
    Posts: 2,653

    Mike Britton
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    OK, so if I'm reading this thread correctly, since my 47 has the factory canister filter on the driver's head, I'm just as well off leaving it in place, and being a bit more diligent about changing my oil?
    I read where the stock system will filter all the oil in about five minutes of running. Is that true? I was going to install a spin on filter adapter, but decided that the canister wasn't enough trouble to warrant the labor and expense.
    Seems to me, modifying the oiling system is one of those things best done when the block is naked, but not worth tearing the block apart just to do that one modification.
     
  17. Engine Pro 5X
    Joined: Feb 13, 2008
    Posts: 4,186

    Engine Pro 5X
    Member

    I've had a Little Experience with this !!! >>>>.
     
  18. OK, so if I'm reading this thread correctly, since my 47 has the factory canister filter on the driver's head, I'm just as well off leaving it in place, and being a bit more diligent about changing my oil?
    I read where the stock system will filter all the oil in about five minutes of running. Is that true? I was going to install a spin on filter adapter, but decided that the canister wasn't enough trouble to warrant the labor and expense.
    Seems to me, modifying the oiling system is one of those things best done when the block is naked, but not worth tearing the block apart just to do that one modification.


    Yes Mike leave what you have and change oil regularly, only do the 95% when the block is down for rebuild, .........
    <!-- / message --><!-- sig -->
     
  19. Mike Britton
    Joined: Feb 16, 2007
    Posts: 2,653

    Mike Britton
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Kinda like "don't fix it if it ain't broke". The little motor runs smooth, and cool, I see no reason to make it "better". It's going to be replaced with a small block in the near future anyway. I've got a 350 that can loaf and make 250-275 H.P., a flathead putting out 275 is going to be pushing it....
     
  20. tig master
    Joined: Apr 9, 2009
    Posts: 409

    tig master
    Member
    from up north

    Its amazing how many on this post don't have a clue about the installation,that could have scared the op away!!!!

    T
     
  21. Mike Britton
    Joined: Feb 16, 2007
    Posts: 2,653

    Mike Britton
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I'm guessing the O/P gave it up because he was looking for a machinist in Houston, and never got an answer to his question. Shame, we were having a pretty good discussion.
    Now I feel bad because he got hi-jacked.
     
  22. 296 V8
    Joined: Sep 17, 2003
    Posts: 4,682

    296 V8
    BANNED
    from Nor~Cal

    Yeah I know the feeling
    Makes for a good chance the use the edit button and take it all back
     
  23. 36tbird
    Joined: Feb 1, 2005
    Posts: 1,034

    36tbird
    Member

    296, that's a good idea.
     
  24. Kinda like "don't fix it if it ain't broke". The little motor runs smooth, and cool, I see no reason to make it "better". It's going to be replaced with a small block in the near future anyway. I've got a 350 that can loaf and make 250-275 H.P., a flathead putting out 275 is going to be pushing it....


    Well Mike thats just not right, don't replace it with a smallblock, do it right and make Henry proud thats the way it should be done........
    <!-- / message --><!-- sig -->
     
  25. 40FordGuy
    Joined: Mar 24, 2008
    Posts: 2,909

    40FordGuy
    Member

    Roseville Carl..... You're correct; I didn't explain that the method I described was when installing a "spin-on" filter, in place of the factory cannister type, with the factory line connections. That is when the restrictor orfice is needed..... My error.

    Happy Roddin' 4TTRUK
     

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