Ford’s 2.0/2.3/2.5 litre engine family guide

Well Kenneth, it's back to the drawing board...

Digging around online I found that .040 over pistons are the most common size available.

And in Smokey's book he says .13" should be the minimum cylinder wall thickness for a cast iron ENDURANCE engine.

It ain't no sonic check, but I fiddled around with calipers and a spacer as well as I could at the top of my already .040" over block through the water jacket holes and came up with .15-.17 cylinder wall thicknesses at about 3/4"-1" down from the deck.

Since I'm not going endurance racing with it, it should be able to handle another .040 of overbore, if not more.

I was wondering because the block didn't quite clean up with a hone at .040 over and the pistons are loose. Since I'd need new pistons anyway, I wanted to figure out if there were any options for this block short of 4 sleeves.

 

You could try to find a set of .060 over pistons which would mean you would only have to bore it .020 to make the block fit the .060 pistons. As much as having sleeves put in the block would cost it would probably be cheaper to find another block.

 

A quick ID 2.0 EAO (Pinto) engine vs 2.3 Lima engine guide.
Here are a few easy ways to find out which one you have.
The engine blocks:
A 2.0 EAO (Pinto) engine block with a cylinder head. (note how close that the distributor, and oil filter is to the front of the block)

A 2.3 Lima engine with a cylinder head (note how much the distributor, and oil filter are away from the front of the block, as compaired to the 2.0 EAO (Pinto) engine above).


The cylinder heads:
A 2.0 EAO (Pinto) cylinder head. (note the 3 cam bearings/towers, and the spray bar for oiling the rocker arms)

A 2.3 Lima cylinder head. (note the 4 cam bearings/towers, and no spray bar. The cam is drilled to oil the rocker arms)


This info can now also be found in the first post of this thread.

 

What kind of gas mileage are you guys getting out of these slightly modified engines???

 

I'm getting 27 mpg on the hwy at 65 mph (23 mpg city) out of the 2.3 in my ot 88 Ford Ranger (truck weighs 3200 lbs).

 

Ken i have a '83 Ranger 2.3 with a 4 spd trans and transfer case. Don't need the transfer case as it is going in a 2wd model a Ford. Is it practical to pull the TC and replace with a tailshaft? I really want to plug a wc t-5 into my existing bellhousing and clutch assembly. Is this a possability. What year and car trans should i look for? Thanks for providing this amazing thread.

 

To put a T5 behind your engine you will need a 2.3 T5 bellhousing also (the 4 speed is totally different). It's best to find a complete T5 with the bell housing, and yoke from a 1987-88 2.3 Thunderbird turbo coupe, or a 87-93 2.3 mustang. You may have to change out the clutch plate (I'm not totally sure on that). To be 100% sure if you could get a good deal on everything from the flywheel to the yoke that way you'll know you have all the right parts.

 

Thank you for your time and efforts to put this together. I've been messing with Ford engines since the Model A and this is one of the better write-ups that I have seen.

 

Thanks very much Ken!

 

That would be an 87 motor. The E is the decade code and the 7 that follows is the year. E=80's hence 87. That is the case on most FOMOCO casting numbers

 

The early 2.0 head had two extra valve cover bolts that went into the front cam tower, the two holes on the front cam tower were not used on a cast aluminum valve cover.

 

i keep finding this page when i search google here is the ? no one has asked and i cant find i have a 86 2.0 lima i want to put the roller cam and followers in out of a 2.3 what issues am i going to run into

 

Just swap out the cam, and followers, it's just that easy. The only differences between the 2.0 lima, and the 2.3 lima is that the 2.0 lima head has smaller combustion chambers, smaller valves, and different intake ports. The 2.0 lima intake ports are round while the intake ports on a 2.3 lima are D-shaped.

 

is there anything else besides port and polish and two bbl carb i can do to increase hp+mpg
already replaced exhaust thrush at down pipe 2" all the way to factory replaced tail pipe = one loud exhaust

 

You can either get a bigger cam, and raise the compression some, or find you a complete 2.3 (it's a direct bolt in, no replacement for displacement). Other than that a turbocharged 2.3 is the best way to get more hp.

 

im trying to work with what i have thanks for the info

 

I know that 1.8 SOHC engines are the red headed step child on this form, but thought you might like to see this project we started today. engine has domed pistons, new Crower cam, balanced, lightened flywheel, modified pan and twin 40 DCOE Webers.

 

Interesting looking mill. What vehicles had these? Gary

 

This one came out of a '75 Ford Courier. Same as the Mazda pickup of that year. Body will be a 'glass '31 Deluxe Sedan Delivery. Same WB as the Courier and considerably lighter than a Model A of the same vintage.

 

does anyone know if a 2.3 out of a 94 ranger can be carburated? thinking of sticking in one in my t-bucket

 

First off you will have to see if the block the provision in the drivers side front of the block for a distributor, if it has the "hole" putting a distributor in it is not a problem. Now on the cylinder head it will be the 8 plug head, and no carburated intake manifold will bolt to it (unless you make your own custom intake maifold), and you don't have to use both plugs on each cylinder. If you can find a 1981-91 mustang single plug head you can find a intake for it that will accept a Holley 350 cfm intake manifold

 

thanks for the clarification....so in essence I have to check my block as well as find a head from an 81-91 mustang....then a distributor from the mustang?

 

I know some have said not best, but http://racerwalsh.zoovy.com/product/RWA1232A_ALUM/adaptor-efi-2bbl-1-Alum.html would allow a carb on EFI intake.

 

Get a duraspark distributor from a 1977-82 mustang (it will drop right in if the block has the hole for it) then you can run a duraspark, or a msd box. The carb adaptor on the lower efi works good on a race motor, but for cold weather, and low rpm (less than 3500) driving the carb adaptor/lower efi manifold just doesn't work very well (been there, done that).

 

Kenneth and others contributing here. Great thread with so much to support using these motors. I went with a Duratech version and found often I was whistling in the dark and making best guesses. Seems both types are great engines though for a lightweight rod.

 

The duratec is a decent little engine but (to me anyways) is more of a tuner engine (no distributor, and the like).

 

thanks for all the info guys....will try and see about getting this motor running right!

 

would u guys recommend anymore parts places to find the distributor I need as well as a carb?

 

I'm using a aftermarket dual point in my 2000cc Pinto engine.

 

On the other hand I do have the computer for the 2.3 I have would anyone know where to find an engine harness?