Register now to get rid of these ads!

Ford’s 2.0/2.3/2.5 litre engine family guide

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Kenneth S, Dec 14, 2008.

  1. Kenneth S
    Joined: Dec 15, 2007
    Posts: 1,491

    Kenneth S
    Member

    Ford’s 2.0/2.3/2.5 litre "Lima" engine family

    These motors are commonly referred to as either the Lima or simply the 2.3 SOHC (Single Over Head Cam) engines. They started life based on the German designed 2.0 EAO Sport motors that were first introduced to this country in the Mercury Capri’s from the early 70’s. They share nothing with the 2.3-2.5 litre HSC motors that were offered in the passenger car line from ’84-’91. Initially the 2.3 was supposed to be designed so that the 2.0 EAO parts would interchange, but due to different manufacturing processes it was not feasable) according to Ford, a couple of easy ways to tell if you have a 2.0L EAO engine, or a 2.0/2.3/2/5L lima engine is that the 2.0 EAO engine has 10 valve cover bolts while the Lima engine has only 8 valve cover bolts, and the distributor is in front of the number 1 intake port on the EAO engine, while the distributor is under the number 1 intake port on the Lima engine. The 2.3 first debuted in the 1974 Pinto using a progressive 2Bbl Webber/Holley carb and a points distributor. In ’75 they were upgraded to a Duraspark ignition system. They remained unchanged until about ’81 when the intake ports were changed from an oval to a D shape (flat floor). The 2.0/2.3 litre versions that were offered in Rangers starting in ’83 used a different head having four evenly spaced round holes of equal size. A 2.0 litre 1-bbl carbed version was offered in Rangers from ’83-’85, and in ’87-’88 with a 2-bbl in some parts of the US, Canada and Mexico. EFI was added to the engines in ’85. In 89 Rangers (91 in Mustangs) the 2.3 was changed to a DIS (Distributorless Ignition System) ignition utilizing a new 8-plug head. This head had larger evenly spaced D-shaped intake ports and was used until the end of production of the 2.5 in ‘01. The 2.5 litre version was only offered from ‘98 To ’01, when the engine was replaced by a 2.3 litre DOHC Duratec based engine.

    In ’79-‘81 a high compression drawthru carb’ed turbo version of the 2.3 was offered. In ’83-‘88 a lower compression EFI turbo version was offered in T-birds, Cougars, Mustang SVOs and Merkur XR4Ti’s (through ’89).

    Some of the changes to the motor over the years were:
    Rear main seal changed from a two piece to a one piece design in ’86.
    Roller cams were installed from ’88 on in Rangers and ’91 on in Mustangs.
    Crankshaft main journal sizes were reduced starting in ’88.
    CPS (Cam Position Sensor) was added starting in ’95 (’94 in California). At this time Ford changed to a 104-pin computer (it was a 60-pin) and moved the DIS functions into the computer, previously the DIS system had a TFI module as a separate unit mounted on the front of the intake manifold.

    Major engine specs are
    .......................................2.0........ .2.3 Early....2.3 Late.....2.5
    Bore...............................3.520........3. 780.........3.780......3.780
    Stroke............................3.126........3.126.........3.126......3.401
    Bore Spacing...................4.173........4.173...... ...4.173......4.173
    Main Journal Dia..............2.3986......2.3986.......2.2055.. ....2.2055
    Rod Journal Dia...............2.0468......2.0468.......2.0468. ....2.0468
    Con. Rod Length..............5.2047......5.2047.......5.204 7.....5.457
    Crank Center to deck.......8.368........8.368.........8.368......8 .368
    Wrist pin height...............1.583........1.583.........1.583.....1.2105
    Wrist pin diameter............0.912........0.912.........0.912......0.912

    Differences between major engine parts are as follows:
    Blocks-
    2.0 is an underbored 2.3, with the exception of the bore the blocks are identical to all 2.3’s (note the ranger 2.0 block can not be bored out to accept a 2.3 pistons).
    ’75-’88 2.3’s are interchangeable.
    ’89-’94 same as ’83-’88 2.3’s but have a smaller main journal saddle, the oil pan seal
    surface was changed in ‘87 to eliminate the 4 piece seal and holes were added in the front to bolt on the DIS’s crank trigger assembly.
    ’95-‘01 similar to the ’89-‘95’s but a Cam Position Sensor was added behind the aux sprocket, the hole for the distributor was eliminated and the oil pump was moved in place of the aux. shaft itself.
    Turbo blocks are identical to the ’83-’88 Ranger blocks but have an additional boss w/ a hole threaded in the pass. side about ½ way back that provides a place to drain the lubricating oil back into the engine from the turbo.

    Cranks-
    2.0 and early 2.3 Lima cranks are identical.
    Late 2.3 Lima cranks have smaller main journals.
    2.5 Lima cranks are identical to 2.3 Lima except they have a longer stroke.
    Rods-
    2.0 and 2.3 (including turbo) rods are identical up through at least ’94. In fact they still have the original D4 (’74) casting number on them.
    Pistons-
    The 2.0 pistons are unique and don’t interchange.
    The 2.3 pistons are all the same excluding the turbo versions, which were forged. Low compression (8.0-1) in the ’83-‘88’s and high compression (9.0-1) in the ’79-‘81’s.
    The 2.5 pistons are similar to the 2.3’s but have a different wrist pin height.

    Heads-
    All 2.0/2.3/2.5 heads will physically bolt in place of each other, they all have similar exhaust port shape and placement. All cams are interchangeable as long as they are used with the proper followers. Later model ('95 and newer) roller cam followers cannot be easily swapped onto an older head as the valve stem size was reduced in the newer heads and matching slot in the follower was reduced, the 83-88 2.0 carburated Ranger engine and 2.3 carburated Ranger engines have the same small round intake ports spaced evenly apart, they differ from each other in their valve sizes though.
    Edit 7/9/2014: Want more valve lift with a stock roller cam?? The setup is to use a 95+ Rocker Arm (1.86" ratio) with a 89-94 Roller Cam (0.2381" lobe lift). This will give you a valve lift of 0.443"! If you have an 89-94 2.3L, you will have to widen the valve stem ends (0.2750") of the 95+ rockers to fit the 0.343" valve stems.

    There are several variations on the 2.3 heads though they break down into 4 distinct types:
    1. Passenger car oval port heads-’74-’80 Mustang, Pinto, Fairmont, Bobcat, etc.
    2. Passenger car D-port head-’81-’95? T-bird, Mustang, Etc.
    3. Truck round port- ’83-’88 carburated Ranger
    4. Truck D-port- ’89-’01 Ranger. The '89-'94's and '95-'01's have different combustion chambers and ports.
    Do not make the intake ports larger on the 2.0 EAO, or 2.3 Lima with the oval ports as they are all ready too big for the size of the engine which is why in 1981 they went to the d-port intake port, on the 2.0 EAO you can actually fill the bottom of the intake port with a 1/4 inch of epoxy (or your favorite filler) making it a d-port, you will not lose any airflow (cfm) but you will drasticaly increase port velosity which = more power.

    Roller Camshafts
    '88-'94 Ranger Roller cam .215" lift at lobe. Lobe is .675 wide
    Follower's roller diameter is .900"
    '95-'01 Ranger Roller cam .215" lift at lobe. Lobe is .510 wide
    Follower's roller diameter is .900"

    Head gasket for turbo or any Lima engine (0-27psi)- Fel-pro #1035
    Recommended Valve Seals (Good for N/A too)
    Intake- E7ZZ-6571-A
    Exhaust- E7ZZ-6571-B
    ____________________________________________________________________________
    Added on 1/15/2011

    2.3 cylinder head intake ports:
    (From top to bottom)
    Oval Port
    Ranger Round Port
    D-Port
    [​IMG]

    Oval Port combustion chamber.
    [​IMG]

    Ranger Round Port combustion chamber (this is from a 2.0 Ranger) Note the smaller valves.
    [​IMG]

    D-Port combustion chamber.
    [​IMG]
    ____________________________________________________________________________


    Cylinder Head Flow Numbers provided by Bo at Boport Racing Heads, http://www.bo-port.com/ (he is also vendor for 2.3 stuff)
    D=d-port / T-D= turbo d-port / L-dual= 97-01 dual plug /
    E-dual= 88-96 dual plug / Ess-D= Esslinger ported d-port/
    inches D T-D Oval Round L-dual E-dual Ess-D ported ARCA
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------
    .050"---27.55--27.8---28.6---31.0---30.0---27.3---28.1---33.2---33.7
    .100"---48.9---54.5---55.9---59.0---58.0---54.9---51.4---65.6---61.3
    .150"---61.8---75.4---78.9---77.7---86.7---78.3---76.7--106.5---91.6
    .200"---75.2--100.6--100.3--101.6--110.7---96.1--105.5--138.8--122.0
    .250"---88.0--120.7--122.3--122.0--130.3--109.4--132.3--169.3--149.8
    .300"--101.6--132.3--136.8--135.5--143.3--120.4--156.3--196.5--175.8
    .350"--116.5--140.1--146.6--142.7--153.1--128.4--177.7--218.6--198.5
    .400"--131.0--144.0--150.5--145.3--158.9--132.3--190.7--234.8--218.6
    .450"--144.0--149.2--153.1--145.9--164.1--134.9--199.8--247.1--236.1
    .500"--151.8--154.4--156.9--149.2--166.8--136.8--205.6--250.4--252.3
    .550"--158.2--159.5--156.3--150.5--168.8--138.8--210.1---------265.9
    .600"--163.4--160.8--156.3--151.8--170.2--140.1--214.7---------275.0
    .650"----------------------------------------------206.9---------283.1
    .700"----------------------------------------------207.6---------290.2

    Performance parts vendors.
    http://racerwalsh.zoovy.com/category//
    http://www.esslingeracing.com/home.htm
    http://exeterautosupply.com/Offenhauser Catalog.html
    http://www.bo-port.com/
    http://www.rheaperformance.com/
    http://www.speedwaymotors.com/ProductSummary.aspx?free_text|4/2/2010 2:16:30 AM=2.3 ford&deptId=0"

    Forums.
    http://stinger-performance.proboards.com/index.cgi
    http://www.turboford.net/index.shtml



    If you have some additional knowledge that will make this data more precise please post it, Thanks.
    Thanks to:
    tjm73.
    Bo at Boport Racing Heads.
    for additional information.

    _____________________________________________________________________________

    Volvo B234F Head Conversion for 2.3L OHC Ford

    Introduction:

    The cylinder head off a ‘89 - ‘90 Volvo 740GLE B234F engine can be used on the Ford 2.3L OHC short block, commonly seen in a turbo configuration in the 1980’s Turbo Mustangs, SVO Mustangs, Merkur XR4Ti’s, and Thunderbird Turbo Coupes. This is an effort to provide one solution, out of many possible, to clearly guide one through the conversion process. The B234F Volvo engine may have also been available in a '91 940GLE sedan or wagon. Early B234F engines had a mechanical cam belt tensioner. Later ones had a hydraulic tensioner. A head off of either engine will work as described below for this conversion.

    In addition to the cylinder head modifications detailed below, intake and exhaust manifolds will have to be constructed as the stock Ford 2.3lt. manifolds will not fit. There was a turbocharged Volvo engine but the manifold is not suitable to this conversion as it places the turbo in the same location as the Ford starter. The head to manifold flanges and the parts of the individual runners containing the injector mounting bosses can be used from the Volvo intake but the runners will have to be angled up to clear the left hand drive brake hardware.

    Overview and General Considerations:

    Familiarity with every component is the key to success, so direct your attention to the Ford block, Ford and Volvo heads and head gaskets, the engine coolant systems, oil supply systems, fasteners, factory recommended maintenance (especially with regard to the Volvo cam tower sealants), valve train systems and components (including cam gears, belts, tensioners, their relative alignment with each other and the block, and piston-to-valve interference points).

    Volvo Engine Overview:

    740 Engine four cylinders gasoline engines: N/A 8v - 114 HP, Turbo 8v - 160 HP, N/A 16 valve: 153 HP

    Volvo 16v flow (with the stock .430 cam and port matching): 240 cfm [unverified claim]

    Esslinger Engineering aluminum head flow (with a .585 cam at 6500 rpm): 260 cfm

    Stock Combustion chamber volume = 53cc

    Volvo head maintenance: Breakdown of the gasket sealer (used in place of gaskets) on the Volvo 16V cause oil leaks onto the cam tower faces; solution - reapply sealer every 40K-50K mi.

    Head fastener info:
    head bolts 14mm.
    manifold nuts 13mm
    support bracket for intake 12mm
    timing cover bolts are 10mm and 12mm
    water pump pulley 10mm nuts
    valve cover 10mm
    the best tool for the intake nuts is a ¼" drive ratchet, extension, and 13mm swivel socket

    Valves: The 16v is a N/A head and if turbocharged, the valves, especially the exhaust, should be changed. There is room to install larger valves, the stock sizes are 34.5mm intake and 31.5mm exhaust. Oversize valves up to 36mm on the intake and 34.5mm on the exhaust can be used. New cam buckets aren’t needed for the conversion, but can be obtained.

    Head Comparison: The Porsche-designed Volvo head, is noticeably shorter than the Ford. Ford’s combustion chambers (and cylinders) are evenly spaced, the Volvo’s are not. The head bolt locations, two of the three oil return holes, and some of the water passages holes match exactly and the others can be matched.

    Oil: The Ford head receives oil from the rear, the Volvo from the front. Run a line from the pressure side of the pump, from the back of the block, where there’s already a tapped line, to the side (preferably the front) of the Volvo cam tower assembly. The actual cylinder head itself does not require any pressurized oil supply. All of the requirements for pressurized oil supply is confined to the cam tower assembly. The resulting drain back takes place through the lower main cylinder head. The Volvo bucket tappets are hydraulic with no lash adjustment shims. Higher performance cams are available but they may require changing to solid tappet buckets with adjustment shims.

    Water passages: Water can be run externally, but many of the water passages already match and are all very close. The water passages in the Volvo head, quite possibly, can just be enlarged to be able to supply the needed water, however cooling at the back of the piston on #4 is less important than matching water passages to the gasket. The downward opening passage in the front of the Volvo head is the water pump bypass; it uses an o-ring between the passage and the pump. Seal the opening and install a connection to the heater core line.

    Parts Required:
    Off the shelf:
    Oil feed line: taps, fittings and a -3 pressure line to feed oil to the head from the block feed point. (Custom length)
    Cam Sprockets: Volvo, round tooth from 16v made adjustable (vernier)
    Timing Belt Tensioner: stock Ford mounted on a plate
    Tensioner (2nd pulley) for Timing Belt: Volvo, from 8v motor
    Crank Gear: new (round tooth) Ford Ranger crankshaft gear, spaced 5/16" (or 8mm) from block.
    Distributor Gear: new (round tooth) Ford Ranger distributor (auxiliary shaft) gear
    Water Pump Sprocket (from new Ranger motor)?
    Timing Belt: 3.0 Mitsubishi - 25mm wide x 55 7/8 long, pitch - 9.5mm or 3/8"
    Gasket, Head: Fel-Pro 1035 (Performance Line) for the Ford 2300
    Gaskets, Intake: Fel-Pro MS95263 for the Volvo B234F
    Gasket, Exhaust: custom or none
    Valves: Racing Engine Valves (REV)

    Fabricated:
    Tensioner mounting plate
    Head block

    Machining Required:

    Block Modifications:
    Tap and thread the rear oil return passage of the block and install a pipe plug. Rear jackets don’t need to be blocked. Install pistons with custom valve reliefs or cut reliefs into stock pistons.

    Head Modifications:
    The front water outlet must be sealed at the bottom and fitted with an outlet opening towards the passenger side. Fill and cc the middle combustion chambers to better match the head gasket (.060). Match the necessary water passages with the Ford gasket. Tap the head to accept an external oil feed. Prepare and machine the block of aluminum, then tig weld to the back of the Volvo head. Appropriately surface and true the head. Install the external oil supply line from the added block to the forward tapped point.

    Details of aluminum block attachment:
    Dimensions – width of Volvo head x height of Volvo head x (length of ford head - length of Volvo head, sort of)

    Details of tensioner mounting plate:
    Shape, drill points, mounts points etc.

    Assembly:
    Install head
    Install valve gear: Mount the Ford tensioner on a plate, mount the plate on the front of the Volvo head, fit the belt to the tensioner, and confirm all rotating belt parts are on same vertical plane. Belt Routing: A plate goes across the top, front bolt holes on the Volvo head, which has a locator pin hole drilled into it for the 8 valve Volvo tensioner. Tensioner bolt comes off of the left passenger side bolt hole in the head. Verify the intermediate and crank sprockets are spaced appropriately from the block for the belt to run true. Time the motor.
    Install intake
    Install exhaust
    Install accessories, radiator, intercooler, a/c etc.

    Cylinder head considerations:
    1. Oil feed to the head: run hose from block or remote oil filter directly to the upper head section and plug the Ford block to the head in the left rear corner with an allen plug.
    2. Instead of placing a small block of aluminum across the back of the head we will be placing a full length, top to bottom piece of aluminum across the back of the head to guarantee that we do not have any oil/water leaks. An additional oil drain hole will be drilled into the back of the head since one of the three factory oil drain holes will be plugged. We were going to also drill an oil supply hole and supply the factory oil feed hole with the oil supply, but we have decided against it and we will be running an external line from the outside, through the side of the upper head section, where no water lives, and supply the oil to the internal feeders at a better location in order to supply both sides of the head simultaneously.

    Suppliers and Alternative Components
    Engine Management:
    There are a lot of fuel management possibilities out there:
    FELPRO/SPEEDPRO SEFI8LO is probably the best for the money,
    EEC-Tuner is good on a variety of Ford ECMs (A3M1 is best but the wiring has to be swapped). The wiring kit complete from computer to sensor plugs is readily available at Painless Performance.

    Cam discussion:
    Richard Prince is the contact. The modified cam specs are: Advertised duration 268 degrees, duration at 0.050", cam lift 228 degrees. Lift 0.438" Cam lift at TDC 0.070" Intake centerline 109degrees ATDC. Lobe separation angle 112degrees
    Stock cams and gears: A$100
    Modify cams to specs: A$886
    10% tax on $886: A$89
    Modify cam gears to vernier: A$300
    Subtotal A$1,375 plus shipping, customs, my service fee 10% A$135 import duty to your account
    Total A$1,510


    This configuration requires no change to cam buckets
    Valves:
    REV can provide larger valves. Also consider using alloy valves and before the swap, also the valve faces could be coated, as well as the outside of the head for a little better heat retention, and the tops of pistons as well. Larger replacement valves: 36 and 34.5; they will require new exhaust seats, the intake will cut out far enough. One possibility: Porsche 928 S4(?), 7mm dia., hyd. Adj., intakes 37mm, exhausts 33mm

    Timing Belt:
    3.0 Mitsubishi 25mm w x 55 7/8” l, pitch - 9.5mm or 3/8", Hyundai 29mm wide, Ford 19mm. Use Volvo 8v cam sprockets if a square-tooth belt (like the stock Ford) is desired.

    Cooling System:
    It is possible to use the Davies-Craig electric water pump and not even use a bypass, and use another electric pump for the heater core loop, like Mercedes and BMW are both doing.

    It's easier to get the aluminum 2.3 head from Esslinger Engineering. (it will out perform the Volvo head).
    _____________________________________________________________________________

    2.0 / 2.3 / 2.5L, 5 Speed Transmission info.

    The Toyo-Koygo 5 speed, the shifter is 25" back from the front of the bell housing (this is the weakest of the Ford Ranger 5 speeds, mainly found in 1983-1988 year models). The throwout bearing is hydraulicly operated.
    [​IMG]
    The M5OD 5 speed, the shifter is 19" back from the front of the bell housing (stronger than the 5 speed mentioned above, it is found in 1987-2001 Ford Rangers). The throwout bearing is hydraulicly operated. There were 2 versions of this transmission the 1987 and up M50D-R1 the bell housing is part of the main case, while the later version the M50D-R4 is basically the same except the bell housing is removeable.
    [​IMG]
    The Borg-Warner T-5 5 speed that came in 1984-1993 Ford Mustangs with the 2.3L engine, the shifter is 28" back from the front of the bell housing, the throw out bearing is cable operated. The turbocharged Ford Thunderbird Supercoupe that where T-5 equipped used a throw out bearing that is hydraulicly operated (I am not sure of the distance of the shifter to the front of the bell housing, it could be the same as the Mustang T-5, or it could not, and I am also not sure that you could swap the bell housing from a T-bird T-5 to a mustang 2.3 T-5).
    [​IMG]

    Ford duraspark conversion.
    Make sure that you have the "blue module" where the wires come out at.
    [​IMG]
    If you are cramped for space you can use a GM HEI module with a Duraspark distributor.
    [​IMG]

    Question by clarky1966:
    I have a question about these. I am using a newer 2.3 (95) in an older vehicle with a 94 harness. The 95 has 2 wires for the crank sensor and the 94 has 4 wires. The 94 sensor bolted to the block, the 95 bolts in a different location. The question being is there any fix to make the 94 sensor bolt to the 95 block? I know I can drill and tap the holes, but I didn't know if there was a wiring fix or possibly and aftermarket sensor that eliminates this problem. The 95 has a gear with a notch missing and the 94 has a ring that has 2 large slots cut out of it that passes between the sensor and disrupts the field. Any help would be appreciated. If any one knows this, you would. Thanks.

    The answer:
    Here's the fix for that.
    It's pretty self explanitory once you get the front covers off of both engines, there are 3 holes that mount the crank sensor mount to the block on the early DIS engine, two threaded and one dowel pin, they are 6mm threads and a 6mm dowel pin, you probably won't find one though. Take a 6mm bolt with a long shank and cut it off so the shank was about the length of the dowel in the original engine and just threaded the hole and red loctited it in place.

    To make your template, get a piece of thin cardboard, cut it out in a relative shape to fit in the area needed, you want to use the outer bolt holes for the cover for reference points so make it big enough to get to those. Start with the hole for the pin, cut it out in the cardboard first, then take a STRONG pin or something and stab it into the holes you want to use for reference one at a time, after you stab the hole in the cardboard cut out the excess so that the correct bolt will fit through then put it back on the engine with the bolt threaded in the hole, this will help in accuracy. Start this process with the outer most cover bolt holes, do 3 of the cover holes for good measure, you don't have to do all of them, and then do the other two holes that need to be drilled and tapped. when you get to the new engine, take a scribe or something to scratch the metal or a sharpie and mark the holes that need to be drilled and tapped, take a center punch and mark the center as close as you can, then drill a small pilot hole like 1/16" then drill the correct size hole for the 6mm tap, at least one of the holes goes all the way through to the crank case so you will want to be careful, with the front cover off you can catch all of the chips without a problem just use some loctite or thread sealant on the bolts when you put it on. That should cover that part.

    You have to use the crank balancer/pulley from a '94 or earlier engine, it'll swap right over. Once you get the sensor mounted and the balancer in place check the crank sensor alignment, take the pulley off (4 bolts with 10mm heads) and rotate the engine, there are some points where you can see both vanes entering the sensor, just make sure they are close to centered, you shouldn't have to to align the sensor after the swap, but it doesn't hurt to check.


    Turbo EFI 2.3 info by: PaceRacer50
    I read through a lot of the information here on the 2.3 as I use to race a 1986 Mustang SVO. I can give you guys some info on the factory turbo EFI engines that will help out because some of the info here is not right. (Note: the 97 and 88 Thunderbird turbocoupe is very different and the computer & vein meter will not interchange without some re-wiring. These years of Turbocoupes are not included in the information below except in their own section at the end.)

    Introduced in 1983 as 145HP in the Mustang, Capri, Thunderbird and Cougar. Same engine was used in the Mekur XR4TI. This engine combination was used through early 1985 with minor changes but the major components remained the same.
    Intake was Inline 4 port style.
    Turbo was T3 Super 60 series non-water cooled. Two bolt flanged discharge flange.
    This turbo is capable of 350hp when properly tuned engine. Excellent turbo other than non-water cooled. Exhaust side was .63AR ratio for all engines. Boost was limited by the waste gate without computer control at 10psi.
    Small outlet exhaust manifold was used which frequently crack. Can be ported for extra power on top end to match the manifold to turbo gasket but its a bitch to do and get down inside good.
    Fuel Injection was designed by and components provided by Bosch for Ford. Injectors are not interchangeable with the 5.0 GT Mustang engine but are with the CFI throttle body 5.0 engines for higher HP.
    Vein Meter is small diameter but the same for all 1983 to early 1985 vehicles including SVO's. Mekur's used the small vein meter through end of production.

    1984 saw the introduction of the SVO with 175HP in the "Premium Fuel" mode, 145HP in "Regular Fuel" mode. (a switch was provided on the console to allow the driver to choose which mode he wanted to use).
    SVO had the regular discharge flange round hose type outlet on the turbocharger. Also was not watercooled. Still the same T3 super 60 series turbo. Exhaust was still the .63AR ratio. Boost was computer controlled to 12psi in premium fuel mode and 10psi in regular fuel mode. (these are actual readings I took on my 84 SVO)
    Intercooler was fitted along with the needed exhaust manifold "U" bracket and two "V" shaped brackets to support it.
    Computer has more aggressive programming for the "Premium Fuel" mode for the 175HP rating. (great upgrade for other 2.3 turbo engines.)
    Remainder of engine was EXACTLY the same as the other models. Camshafts, cylinder heads, blocks, cranks ARE the SAME! No special SVO only camshafts or cylinder heads.

    1985-1/2 saw major updates across the board for all Turbo equipped Fords.
    The intake manifold was changed from the inline 4 port style (more restrictive) to the square 4 port style.
    The turbocharger was now water cooled but still the same T3 Super 60 series. This is an excellent turbo for street-strip performance up 350HP. The exhaust side was still the .63AR ratio for 5-speed vehicles and .48AR ratio for automatic equipped vehicles to improve boost response. Note: it has always been written that the 85-1/2 SVO was equipped with the .48AR ratio exhaust but on every one I have owned (7 of them) and all I have worked on (over 100) they all had the .63AR ratio exhaust. The .48AR ratio exhaust limits the top end horsepower by at least 25-30hp. It will choke the exhaust as the RPM gets above 5200rpm. Boost was limited to 12psi in premium fuel mode and 10psi in regular fuel mode.
    More aggressive 1984 SVO style computer and programming was used in all vehicles except the SVO. The 1985-1/2 engines are rated at 175HP (boost was 12psi) with the SVO coming in at 205HP (boost was 14psi). The SVO computer to have is coded "PE". This is the best computer to use for performance applications. (the 86 SVO used the same computer but was rated at 200HP with 14psi boost. Believed this drop was due to climate changes during the dyno testing).
    The Vein meter in all vehicles except the SVO's was the same. SVO's recieved the larger 3" diameter vein meters. Excellent upgrade for max HP for all vehicles.
    The exhaust manifold was changed to a larger port outlet. Referred to as the E6 manifold this is the best to use short of installing a stainless steel header.
    All major engine components, camshafts, blocks, cylinder heads, pistons, rods, crankshafts are all the same for all 1983 to 1986 engines.

    1986 saw no changed to the TurboCoupe, Mekur or SVO components. Engines were rated at 175HP for all but the SVO which was 200HP.

    1987-88 Thunderbird Turbocoupe had major design differences. This engine was rated at 190HP with 5-speed and 175HP with automatic. This was the final evolution of the 2.3 turbo engine from Ford with changes made to offer the best driveability and all around performance with minimal compromises. Excellent engine and 5-speed to use in street rods and engine swaps as a complete system.
    The turbocharger was a water cooled IHI small diameter turbo with a reduced exhaust AR ratio. Used for quicker boost response and driveability improvements.
    A Intercooler was added with twin scoops in the hood feeding it. This intercooler is larger than the SVO intercooler and a mild upgrade for SVO's. Horsepower add is minimal however.
    Computer and Vein meter are different from all previous turbo engines and will not directly interchange without re-wiring the connectors to match. Vein meter is larger diameter for better airflow across the RPM range.
    Intake manifold is still the square 4 port design but the upper section is lower in height for a lower profile hood. The valve cover is clearanced for the intake to fit. This intake offers the best upper rpm performance and HP without modifications.
    The exhaust manifold is different to match up to the IHI turbocharger.
    The other major engine components are the same as previous years.
    _____________________________________________________________________________
    A quick ID 2.0 EAO (Pinto) engine vs 2.3 Lima engine guide.
    Here are a few easy ways to find out which one you have.
    The engine blocks:
    A 2.0 EAO (Pinto) engine block with a cylinder head. (note how close that the distributor, and oil filter is to the front of the block)
    [​IMG]
    A 2.3 Lima engine with a cylinder head (note how much the distributor, and oil filter are away from the front of the block, as compaired to the 2.0 EAO (Pinto) engine above).
    [​IMG]

    The cylinder heads:
    A 2.0 EAO (Pinto) cylinder head. (note the 3 cam bearings/towers, and the spray bar for oiling the rocker arms)
    [​IMG]
    A 2.3 Lima cylinder head. (note the 4 cam bearings/towers, and no spray bar. The cam is drilled to oil the rocker arms)
    [​IMG]


    Ford Duraspark ignition modules.
    Red - Duraspark I (California cars 1977, California 302 V8 only, 1978-1979)
    higher output, considered the module to use back in the '70s and '80s. Does
    not employ a balast resistor. Senses current flow through the coil & adjusts
    dwell for maximum spark intensity.
    Green - early solid state ignition (pre-1977) similar to Duraspark II, but
    never popular for retrofitting, probably because the Duraspark I was
    superior.
    Blue - Duraspark II (49 state 1977, 50 state 1978 and later)
    Yellow - Duraspark II with "dual mode" (except 1981)
    White - Duraspark II with "cranking retard"
    Brown - Duraspark III for computer controlled cars.
    Yellow - durapsark III (1981) has an extra connector for altitude compensation on early computer models.

    In 1974, Ford/Mercury began to use breakerless ignition systems. The first of these electronic ignition systems was originally just referred to as the breakerless ignition system, but later, in 1977, it became known as Duraspark. The Duraspark I system, and the next version, Duraspark II were nearly identical in operation, and virtually identical in appearance. The Duraspark I uses a special control module which senses current flow through the ignition coil and adjusts the coil for maximum spark intensity. If the Duraspark I module senses that the ignition is ON, but the distributor shaft is not turning, the current to the coil is turned OFF by the module.


    The Duraspark II system does not have this feature. The coil is energized for the full amount of time that the ignition switch is ON. Keep this in mind when servicing the Duraspark II system, as the ignition system could inadvertently fire while performing ignition system services (such as distributor cap removal) while the ignition is ON. All Duraspark II systems are easily identified by having a two-piece, flat topped distributor cap.
    Duraspark I was discontinued after the 1981 model year.

    In 1980, the new Duraspark III system was introduced. This version is based on the previous systems, but the input signal is controlled by the EEC system, rather than as function of engine timing and distributor armature position. The distributor, rotor, cap, and control module are unique to this system; the spark plugs and plug wires are the same as those used with the Duraspark II system. Although the Duraspark II and III control modules are similar in appearance, they cannot be interchanged.

    Some 1978 and later engines use a special Duraspark Dual Mode ignition control module. This module is equipped with an altitude sensor, and an economy modulator. This module, when combined with the additional switches and sensor, varies the base engine timing according to altitude and engine load conditions. Duraspark Dual Mode ignition control modules can be identified by the three wiring harnesses emerging from the control module.
    Some 1981 and later Duraspark II systems used with the 5.0L engine are quipped with a Universal Ignition Module (UIM) which includes a run/retard function. The operation of the module is basically the same as the Duraspark Dual Mode module.

    So you want to use either the Red, or Blue gromet modules.
    ____________________________________________________________________________

    Thanks to 1oldtimer for these part numbers for the Ford 2.0 EAO engine.

    **Timing belt tensioner - Melling BT10
    **Cam, Aux shaft, Front Crank seal (all the same) - D1FZ-8592-A, National Seal #473560N
    **Thermostat housing - D3FZ-8592-A
    **Rear Crank Seal - D1FZ-6701-A
    **Tune up kit - TKF-24
     
    Last edited: Jul 9, 2014
  2. Speedwagen
    Joined: Aug 3, 2006
    Posts: 732

    Speedwagen
    Member
    1. A-D Truckers

    Good stuff---thanks
     
  3. tjm73
    Joined: Feb 17, 2006
    Posts: 3,190

    tjm73
    Member

    The 2.3 did not change to the DIS and 8 plug head in the Mustang untill 1991.
     
  4. Weasel
    Joined: Dec 30, 2007
    Posts: 6,723

    Weasel
    Member

    Thanks for posting a really useful and informative thread. I suspect we will be seeing more of these 4 banger engines in hot rods - especially when gas goes back up again - as it will.:(
     
    Register now to get rid of these ads!

  5. Kenneth S
    Joined: Dec 15, 2007
    Posts: 1,491

    Kenneth S
    Member

    Thanks for the information, I made the correction in the original post.:cool:
     
  6. Phil1934
    Joined: Jun 24, 2001
    Posts: 2,303

    Phil1934
    Member

    The DOHC 16V Volvo B234 was in '89-'90 740 in US and '91 940 in Canada. It goes on with a little welding. Just weld up the center oil drain hole at top and weld the outside edge of the oval holes on either side as they get too close to the gasket edge, cut off and weld up the water pump bypass elbow on the front and weld a 1"x1"x5.5" block of aluminum on the rear where the head is shorter. Then drill the four small water holes at top of gasket and add four at bottom as two exhaust valves per cylinder and add one hole to block at #3 cylinder as missing and drill an oil passage in the rear of the block next to temp sender and through the head overhang to the oil groove between top and bottom half of head and connect with a line to oil the cams. You can just see the Weatherhead fitting at top right for the brake line down to the block. The bolt holes line up but the dowel holes in the head are slightly offset and smaller so must be opened up.Diamond pistons and Crower rods finish up the bottom of my 2.5. I added Esslinger adjustable cam sprockets with adapters to the Volvo cams. I still have to add a different belt and a couple tensioners and a blower.
    Volvo 16V
    LIFT IN EX
    0.100 87 81
    0.200 167 159
    0.300 220 194
    0.400 232 196
    0.500 236 199
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Dec 16, 2008
  7. 81ttopcoupe
    Joined: Feb 10, 2005
    Posts: 394

    81ttopcoupe
    Member
    from Cedar Park

    Wow, someone knows more about "Pinto motors" than me! I haven't had one in 15 years so my memory is a bit fuzzy, but everything I see looks correct. How about a Part 2 with aftermarket parts, past and present?
    I had an Offy 4 barrel intake, Holley 390cfm 4bl, Headman Headers, Erson Cam, Motorsport lifters. Used to love racing all the European 4 cylinder sports cars and most any six cylinder. With a Mustang 4 speed from Racer Walsh and a Mustang V-8 8" 3:1 rear it would do better than 130 on the top end. Never legally raced it to get a 1/4 time, I was more interested in top end than short blasts. Made it from 99 miles in 1 hr. 5 minutes on time, which included stoping for gas.
    Still have the Motorsport aluminum vavle cover hanging in the garage.
     
  8. Kenneth S
    Joined: Dec 15, 2007
    Posts: 1,491

    Kenneth S
    Member

    New transmission information added.
     
  9. 57JoeFoMoPar
    Joined: Sep 14, 2004
    Posts: 3,479

    57JoeFoMoPar
    Member
    from Union, NJ

    This is an awesome thread. Very informative
     
  10. Limey Steve
    Joined: Apr 4, 2005
    Posts: 1,557

    Limey Steve
    Alliance Vendor
    from Whittier

    great stuff I'm putting a 2.3 in a Mk I Ford Cortina , I need the steel plate between engine/trans I'm using a Mustang 5 speed but the engine came minus the plate , Any one Help ??

    Cheers
     
  11. fiftyv8
    Joined: Mar 11, 2007
    Posts: 3,491

    fiftyv8
    Member
    from CO & WA

    Great thread and timely.
     
  12. Animal
    Joined: Nov 11, 2004
    Posts: 1,784

    Animal
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I'm getting ready to put a 2.3 turbo banger in a '60 Rambler American....thanks for the info!:D
     
  13. screamnmonkee
    Joined: Oct 19, 2007
    Posts: 21

    screamnmonkee
    Member

    I have a 2.3 Turbo out of an 88 T BIrd in my 1929 Model A. I love it. It has an SDS system for better tuning and an A4LD automatic overdrive. There is aguy in St. Louis who supposedly is getting around 1000hp with this based motor and huge turbo.
     

    Attached Files:

  14. Phil1934
    Joined: Jun 24, 2001
    Posts: 2,303

    Phil1934
    Member

    Last edited: Apr 3, 2009
  15. clarky1966
    Joined: Jan 29, 2010
    Posts: 97

    clarky1966
    Member

    I have a question about these. I am using a newer 2.3 (95) in an older vehicle with a 94 harness. The 95 has 2 wires for the crank sensor and the 94 has 4 wires. The 94 sensor bolted to the block, the 95 bolts in a different location. The question being is there any fix to make the 94 sensor bolt to the 95 block? I know I can drill and tap the holes, but I didn't know if there was a wiring fix or possibly and aftermarket sensor that eliminates this problem. The 95 has a gear with a notch missing and the 94 has a ring that has 2 large slots cut out of it that passes between the sensor and disrupts the field. Any help would be appreciated. If any one knows this, you would. Thanks.
     
  16. Kenneth S
    Joined: Dec 15, 2007
    Posts: 1,491

    Kenneth S
    Member

    Here's the fix for that.
    It's pretty self explanitory once you get the front covers off of both engines, there are 3 holes that mount the crank sensor mount to the block on the early DIS engine, two threaded and one dowel pin, they are 6mm threads and a 6mm dowel pin, you probably won't find one though. Take a 6mm bolt with a long shank and cut it off so the shank was about the length of the dowel in the original engine and just threaded the hole and red loctited it in place.

    To make your template, get a piece of thin cardboard, cut it out in a relative shape to fit in the area needed, you want to use the outer bolt holes for the cover for reference points so make it big enough to get to those. Start with the hole for the pin, cut it out in the cardboard first, then take a STRONG pin or something and stab it into the holes you want to use for reference one at a time, after you stab the hole in the cardboard cut out the excess so that the correct bolt will fit through then put it back on the engine with the bolt threaded in the hole, this will help in accuracy. Start this process with the outer most cover bolt holes, do 3 of the cover holes for good measure, you don't have to do all of them, and then do the other two holes that need to be drilled and tapped. when you get to the new engine, take a scribe or something to scratch the metal or a sharpie and mark the holes that need to be drilled and tapped, take a center punch and mark the center as close as you can, then drill a small pilot hole like 1/16" then drill the correct size hole for the 6mm tap, at least one of the holes goes all the way through to the crank case so you will want to be careful, with the front cover off you can catch all of the chips without a problem just use some loctite or thread sealant on the bolts when you put it on. That should cover that part.

    You have to use the crank balancer/pulley from a '94 or earlier engine, it'll swap right over. Once you get the sensor mounted and the balancer in place check the crank sensor alignment, take the pulley off (4 bolts with 10mm heads) and rotate the engine, there are some points where you can see both vanes entering the sensor, just make sure they are close to centered, you shouldn't have to to align the sensor after the swap, but it doesn't hurt to check.
     
  17. clarky1966
    Joined: Jan 29, 2010
    Posts: 97

    clarky1966
    Member

    Ok, I did that. I will be putting the engine back together and in the truck tomorrow. I will keep you posted. The only thing I could see as a problem was once it was all installed and I did a test on turning it, the vanes cut into the sensors bottom. It cleared the sensors fingers, just scraped the bottom a little. Probably about 0.015 into it or so. Other than that, it was smooth sailing. I turned it over and over and over so it would smooth it out, then I filed down the mount a bit just to clean it up and reinstalled it. There is still clearance on it now. I will be trying it tomorrow. Thanks for all your help.
    Some one should be making a front cover with this cast into it. That would be the best thing for this situation.
     
  18. clarky1966
    Joined: Jan 29, 2010
    Posts: 97

    clarky1966
    Member

    It worked great. Runs like a champ. Thanks for all your help.
     
  19. lorodz
    Joined: Jul 26, 2009
    Posts: 3,688

    lorodz
    Member

    did you ever find that manifold you were looking for , for me ....lol
     
  20. Kenneth S
    Joined: Dec 15, 2007
    Posts: 1,491

    Kenneth S
    Member

    Lorodz, I completely forgot about the manifold (I got side tracked as usual), it's setting on the shelf under my glassbead cabinet (when I found it and I glass beaded it a long with some other stuff) so it ready to go.
     
  21. bill wallace
    Joined: Oct 26, 2006
    Posts: 104

    bill wallace
    Member

    thank you great info
     
  22. robt500
    Joined: Nov 6, 2006
    Posts: 433

    robt500
    Member
    from Lex, KY

    I don't read the HAMB nearly as much as I did a few years ago but I recently picked up an '81 Mustang with 2.3 and a 4 speed to use as a daily beater and a google search for 2.3 info came up with this thread. perfect. viva la HAMB and thanks to Kenneth S for starting a thread (in '08, I know) that contributes useful information
     
  23. need louvers ?
    Joined: Nov 20, 2008
    Posts: 11,887

    need louvers ?
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Great info! I now know that I have a '83 - '88 Ranger motor. Which explains my question - I have a Esslinger 2bbl manifold with a D port and round ports on my freshly rebuilt engine... What next?! I would rather not replace the head because it has been rebuilt completely and it appears competently. You said something about using a high temp epoxy to reconfigure the ports on an early 2000cc motor, how about for mine? Any other Ideas?
     
  24. Kenneth S
    Joined: Dec 15, 2007
    Posts: 1,491

    Kenneth S
    Member

    The intake ports on the round port Ranger head are smaller than the early "German EAO" 2.0 engines that were used in the early Pinto's, so you don't have that problem if the intake ports being too big. You need to find the 86-88 ranger round port 2 bbl intake, then adapt a Holley, or Motorcraft 2 bbl carb on it. (The intake you need to find see pic below).
    [​IMG]

    You can see the difference (this is the early Pinto 2.0 dual sidedraft carb setup, note the bigger than Ranger round intake ports).
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Oct 28, 2010
  25. Awesome engine, built a '70 Ford Capri (US Mercury) fifteen years ago with one in it. I know not HAMB friendly, but it was a lot of fun and I was young! The Capri was originally a 1600 and I swapped it for the OHC Pinto 2.0 with a heavily modified head and a match ported manifold with twin side draft Webbers. Swapped the original auto for a four speed, and hit the road after an 18 month rebuild...wish I still had that car. :rolleyes:
     
  26. Vandy
    Joined: Nov 15, 2009
    Posts: 368

    Vandy
    Member
    from L.A. Ca

    I did not see it mentioned that Ford also sold this motor much later as a industrial power plant. I rebuilt quite a few that are in use in sky lifts. All are used with a duel fuel system, Gas or Propane. All the industrial versions are the same as the Ranger version but had a Duraspark distributor and had the extra 4 plug holes plugged. The Mazda 2.3 that replaced the 2.5 used in the Ranger is a Turd.
     
  27. fastrnu
    Joined: Feb 26, 2009
    Posts: 734

    fastrnu
    Member
    from shelton,wa

    Great thread! i am currently building a 26 lakes mod with a 2.3 T-5 plenty good info THANKS
     
  28. need louvers ?
    Joined: Nov 20, 2008
    Posts: 11,887

    need louvers ?
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    If I keep my Ranger round port head instead of going over to a passenger car D port, how bad am I choking this thing down? Is there a major difference in power potential between the two? I'm kinda stuck using the Esslinger manifold because it is the narrowest I have been able to find. This is going in a 6" narrowed '27 modified, and all of the Ford intakes I have found orient the carb East to west, and they want occupy the same space as the hood side. Thanks, Chip
     
  29. 72 Pinto 2.0
     

    Attached Files:

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2013 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.