Enclosed photos of my injected French flathead. It's 304 cu. " with individual throttle bodies. The throttle bores have been reduced for better mapping and flow. Fuel and spark are computer controlled. 3 years in development but the time was worth while. 304 ft. lbs @ 2750. 204HP at 4000. Runs smooth and handles the AZ heat. 9000 miles of pleasure. Ran from Lake Havasu Az ( 120 degrees)last july to BC no heating issues at all. I am building a new twin plug version with some new ideas. The car is a Henry with a Columbia 2 speed. Thought I would share this with you guys. Dick
Thank you, untill now I had no idea that a flathead could be so totally violated that it would become unrecognisable and completely untraditional. We should all learn some thing new every day.
How about posting this thread over on the Fordbarn. I would love to read the comments of some of those traditionalists over there. Looks like a lot of extra coolant volume in those heads. What kind of compression ratio are they? Also, what kind of mpg are you getting with that set up?
Great Job! nice to see something "different". As long as your having fun, who cares. And you drive it, that's even cooler.
Very Nice! Care to elaborate on the ITB's.....I also want to reduce a Kinsler SBC intake(2 3/16-1 7/8). What ECU did you end up using etc.... Thanks, Doug
Thank you for your comments. For the people who think it violates tradition, no problem. I'm not a good follower. To answer some questions the heads are Wilson and Woods. The ecu is EFI tech. To sleeve down the throttle bores I machined reducers to 1 1/4" and made matching throttle plates. The plates are critical. These held water. To sleeve down the runners, I used surgical tubing with a spring inside. Poured Devcon around the tubing and filled cavity. If there is enough interest, I have a lot of photos. I'll check out to see what the Ford barn is. Dick www.koultools.com
You say you reduced to 1 1/4??? what size did you start with as this is what I am starting with (with more cubes)! Thanks
I'd like to see how you did what you did. Although it is electronic you still did things that will be applicable to other situations. You sound little like Wilbur he isn't very damned good at the rules either, not that it is a bad thing. I wouldn't trade Wilbur for the world.
The bodies were 1 5/8". Don't forget, this is just an air valve, not a venturi. I wanted to see more plate movement for mapping. I also played with runner lenght until the engine was happy. You can road tune, but to get the most out of this, you need a dyno. This is not a race motor, it's a road car. By the way, I have the help of an EFI school instructor and the kid ( he's 50 now) that ran my dyno at KERKER. Could I have done this without them, probably not. Things have changed though in the past year and it is getting easier. Still works better with a dyno. Dick
Great job Dick and a beautiful car to put it in. I like it. A couple of questions, do you have an onboard afr gauge and if yes did you notice any change from high altitude to low altitude afr's on your trip? I am running a flathead with port per cylinder efi but with 1 3/8 throttle plates. Done the tuning at 4000' and really happy with it. Went to 500' a couple of weeks ago and noticed it was much richer so working on the altitude correction now, using a wideband o2 sensor. I would have never noticed the difference if it hadn't had the afr gauge, I was surprised because it still ran good. Vergil
Thanks Vergil. I have driven the 32' from 300' to 10,000' ( Leadville Colorado) no issues. You should have file for MAP corrections. The MAP will sense altitude changes and correct the AFR. Just like any new car does. Sounds like the file is not correct. This is not difficult. The percentage of correction is a know value. My onboard AFR gauge is my computer. Once mapped, I never look at it unless something dose not feel right.
Dick after reading your reply I looked at my MAP settings again and noticed the failure kPa was set at 99 kPa so looked at an altitude pressure chart I had put together and at 500' the kPa is around 99.5 so I was just bumping the failure settings for it, changed it so now I am good to -500' now. Always good to get input on problems and solutions. Will have to make another run to see what happens now. Vergil
I must apologize, my throttle bores are 2 1/4"! I am thinking 1 7/8" is more appropriate. The plan is a 327ish SBC. How did you come to conclude a bore size? Is there a relationship to cylinder volume? How did you play with runner lenght, as mine is cast and fixed? Thanks, Doug P.S. I probably only have another 956 more questions.....
I read somewhere that 85% of the intake valve is a good runner size. This is a street motor and it doesn't see anything above 4000 RPM. I got lucky on runner lenght. When I added to the top of the throttle body, it started to kill the top end. I stopped there. The mtr was happy at 2700 and that's 65MPH. You need to pick a stopping point and get on down the road. At that speed, the engine is so in balance that you only hear the wind in the cockpit. Dick
Dick, I have set up race cars the same way, load from TPS and MAP correction for altitude. This really helps when running big cams and light flywheels. That is one NICE setup you have, post more pictures. John
Wow! You are to be congratulated on applying your cutting edge "engineeranuity" to the traditional flatty. Well done.
Do you pick up your MAP signal drawing off all eight ITB's(to a common plenum) P.S. @85% of a 1.94 intake, my throttle bore should be 1.649....1 5/8" is close...smaller than I thought.What intake valve are you running?
MMS, the MAP sensor is used for altitude compensation only in this application. The ECU looks only at TPS and rpm for load sensing and fuel/ign mapping. Basically a electronic Hillborn injector system. If the intake had a common plenum, it would defeat the ITB tuning.
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