Im guessing you from ontario Ca i live about 30 miles .from you just bought my dads 28 coupe on 32 rails and just bought the neighbors 56 oval window ..
You are correct, looks like you are just up the hill a bit from me. I where the 60/15 meets. Our cars are similar in years with my 30 on 32 rails and my 55 oval.
Repops or not, you made the right choice, IMHO. Can' wait to see what you do in the next three months. At this rate, you can change eras four times a year. Another opinion, but I think E & J's look best mounted on a fireplace mantel. Same holds true for those things that resemble chromed vaginas. Both are UGLY, ugly !
I like the way the second and third header pipes make a little bend before reaching the collector. Very traditionally built, traditional ride.
Will run it for 100 miles or so then tackle the heads, new filter/lines, year appropriate wire install/clean up and fit the original cowl band and lacing kit. Picking up real parts along the way as well
Hey Eric,We met at jons while you were buying this body.Nice job On finishing it out.Those heads look good!
Trust me you don't want an original seat. I had one and it was way too fat and tall, 10(?) inches of sloppy soft springs means there's no room in the cab of the car. I built a low profile seat and couldn't be happier with it.
So, are you saving your knowledge for tech week or something!? Would be very interested in how you did it. I can sort of tell what you did, but even a material list would be awesome!!!
It's just a birch ply board with cut outs for the upholstery straps, 2" foam for the bac k 3" foam for the bottom. Rest of the wood is stock.
Removing the old heads was a major bitch and when I finished plumbing the relocated oil filter, I ran into electrical gremlins. Thought I would make LARS but it's looking dim now. I hate electrical and am very slow at it
New bob drake pumps, water wetter mixed with the coolant, ran fine before with the stock set up. Dual carbs seem to have been the start to problems. Aluminum radiator worked just fine before as well. But sitting at idle now, it's up to 220 in ten minutes.
How much ignition timing are you running? And did you put thermostats in the water necks on the heads?
The timing was set when I sent the distributor to Bubba's ignition to be rebuilt and install a pertronix. Idk exactly what it's set at and I haven't gotten an email back from them with that answer yet. There are not any thermostats in the heads. This engine ran a cool 180-190 prior to me installing the Thickstun and dual strombergs whereas it had a single intake with one 97.
Check the plugs. If it is lean it will make heat, as will too much advance. Thermostats or restrictors would help too. No engine needs two water pumps.,
The timing was set for a stock set up...lesson learned. I was able to meet someone that knows his shit and lives close by. Timing was way off and was causing the overheating. Vacuum brake was what was making it hard to drive. Found out the switch in my '47 column drop was causing my electrical problems with the car shutting on and off. I replaced the bakelite piece on the back but it still occurred so for now I just re-routed the wiring to a simple switch. I started to replaced plastic coated wires with cloth braided as well. As normal, it is a never ending project but the driving aspect of it is starting to come back around rather than the large paper weight!
I have the same column drop and switch in a 32. I think the switch design is flawed, because if you look at the wear pattern on the bakelite and contacts...the switch contactor simply does not quite move far enough to sit completely on the "on" contact. My opinion is they worked ok if there were not a lot of things added to the circuit to cause more electrical loads?? I did not see a way to make it move more..except a little grinding of the drop so that drive pin that moves the contacts, can move a bit more? That pin hits in a certain spot to act as a stop. Mine works fine with it only running the dist coil. My plan for "keyed" power for other things, I will run a Bosch relay off that Ford switch so there is very little added loads from the signals, heater, etc..
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