Projects Finally I get my Flathead powered T Roadster

Took the rear end over to Derrek's yesterday for fitting. All looks good and 21 5/8" will be coming out. I will post pix of the shortening process this week. Gonna be ready for that QC center soon.

 

got the housing done,tomorrow will work on the bearing plate.Should ship to Tim Thursday or Friday.

 

Mike-That looks fantastic! I`m sure that you`ll be pleased as punch when you get it, Tim!!

 

Very nice job , how much to buid one ?

 

I have to add a few things I forgot,the ring and pinion needs to be a 3.78 ratio as this gives you the most reasonable final ratios, Tim is getting a 3.48 highway gear flip them over and you have a 4.11 .I run a 3.20 4.47. Also only use winters gears as they are made in usa plus they do not vary in thickness I have checked others and they are all over the place.

 

Hey kiwi do you go to bonneville ?

 

Hugh glad you like the thread,I would like to teach someone,they removed the shop tools from the high school and junior college here as they said nobody does that kind of work anymore,they do it with computers.

 

OH! Mine are 4:11 Mike, what does that give me?

 

Very, very, very nice work Mike............

 

3.78 - 4.47 3.94 - 4.29 3.68 - 4.59 3.62 - 4.67 3.48 - 4.86

 

This is one of the most informative threads ever on the HAMB. That's a HELUVA AWESOME JOB!

 

Yeah, what are you charging for one of those? Nice work BTW.

 

Mike--I`ve been going for over 30 years. These days you can find me wearing an Orange Cap in the Inspection area.......First time was with a Roadster we brought from New Zealand. It was all down hill from there...

 

Like 2 threads in one - lots of good stuff going on.

Mart.

 

Mike is a friend, fellow early hot rod fan, and a "real" tool and die maker schooled by old world craftsmen. He's restored and modified many old rare speed equipment parts for me that I wouldn't have entrusted to anyone else. When he decided to create his own version of a Ford banjo QC, I jumped and was lucky to get # 1. If you want a QC, and are fortunate enough to have Mike agree to make you one, you'll own a fine, precision piece to put in your hot rod.

 

I agree, it was the first thing I thought of when I started this build. It will just look so right under the car and will certainly be a bragging point when I talk to people. I made sure the stance of the car will show it off.

 

Now that the frame is built and we have measured the rear end it's time to cut the tube to length. The rear end I started with was out of a '41 Merc Wagon I was told and the tube was 71 1/2" long, we need it at 50 1/2" so 21 has to come out.

Measured twice. Then cut the tube with a little extra as I've never seen a band saw make a perfect cut.



Now I have three pieces.


True up each end of the tube in the lathe, had to be very carful with the short piece as the steady rest wouldn't get close enough to the chuck.



A piece of angle helps to align the two pieces. I had marked the tube with a sharpie and a square before I cut it but the seam on the side makes a very good reference to line it up before welding.


Tacked in place.


Now the fun part. We have a crankshaft welder in the shop and I use it for welding anything that is round, makes a very clean bead.



There you have it! 50 and one half inches! Next I will cut the shaft the same amount.


Sorry for the less than perfect photos, I took them with my phone in bad light then steal them from instagram.

 

WTF. This thread is the bad @ss threat, one to rule them all.

Welded QC, with a tutorial on top, a nice looking rod, a awesome plan, Flat head and now you are welding under flux!
I've done that for year, but in heavy gauge steel for the tower on wind turbines. That is freaking awesome!
If you do this much out of your rear and an TT, I can't wait for you to post an update on the flathead and box!

So please hurry, I'm loosing sleep here

 

Great thread! bone31, I wish lived a tad closer. I haven't ran any machine tools for 15 years or so, and I love the old stuff. mctim64, it's going to be nice watching this come together. I am back to lurking, with eyes wide open.

 

A submerged arc crankshaft welder Tim, that's almost like cheating Just kidding. At this rate you will get your second car done before I get my first one done
But that's OK, it's fun watching. Looking very nice.
Larry.

 

Larry I have to cheat when I can, I don't have your skills.

 

good job welders like that have been around a long time,60 years before mig and tig

 

got the bearing block bored for a press fit for the bearings, the tool is called a offset boring head.The two 3/16 holes in each pocket is to remove the bearings with a punch if you ever need to, never put bearings in a blind hole.

 

Almost done,forgot to post the pic. of the test bell fit about half of the center sections need to be ground for a few high spots so the bell fits.Even with all of the steps to prevent warpage that is still a lot of welding , not much to deal with a few spots. Have the bearing plate done, the pad on the back is to regulate the clearance to the cover about .025 . Will finish the cover tomorrow and ship friday. A

 

Beautiful!

 

Beautiful work.


Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!

 

I just read this whole thread. With little kids I don't get on here nearly enough. This thread is remarkable. the attention to detail and precision is truly inspiring. Thank you for taking the time to share with us. Very cool project, Remarkable work! Keep Rocking!

 

Beautiful work Mike! I'm looking forward to getting it.
Just Beautiful!

 

Took the drive shaft and cut 21" off it. Measured the depth into the coupler at 2 1/4" and turned the cut end down to 1.005" with a shoulder at the 2 1/4" point after facing the end off.


Next I bored the inside of the coupler with a 1" end mill to a depth of just a hair over 2 1/4". With a .005" interference I heated the coupler and dropped it on the shaft.



Next we go to the crankshaft welder again, after boring out the pin holes and into the shaft a bit I put two "Rosette" welds on the coupler and welded the end with three overlapping welds, letting each one cool before the next one was applied.

This should stand up to the maybe 160hp that will go through it. Time will tell.

 

Looks great to me Timmer that ctr section is really koooooooool