I have an EZ Wiring harness and am not real pleased with it. Need some help guys. Can't find all the wires that go to the headlight switch.Is there one for the headlights? Also am trying to wire up my ignition switch; but it has no markings on the back where the 4 prongs are. Can anybody help me to better understand... Thanks 4 your time ,
Ones battery , accessory, ignition and start. A meter will tell you which is which. Id start with the momentary position and see which two tabs are continuous and work from there.
Don't you power the dimmer switch than to the headlights !? Hi-Low?? tail & parks come off the switch?
Thanks guys Ok what about a pic of where wires go on the headlight switch, please. Will trace wires when I get home tonight.
Those harnesses come with a great instruction book I have installed a hand full I can do one in a day. The head light switch diagram is in the book. But it will have head light power going in to switch wire goes from switch to dimmer for both bright and dim . Should be a pre fab plug for your dimmer switch and the other 2 are tail light and marker light all wires have wrote on them where they go will find one of the books in a bit and take a pic
The one I did (Kwik Wire) had excellent directions and followed the standard GM color convention. I bought their headlight switch (OG Ford one had some funky fuse in it) and a NAPA ignition switch. All of those were clearly marked and eliminated a lot of WTF moments.
Why aren't you pleased with EZ Wire? It's so simple with the wires all printed with where they go and what they do. Without knowing what year make model that ignition switch is we can't tell you what goes where. As far as the headlights, the red wire from the fuse panel marked headlight power goes to the headlight switch, as does the 2 brown wires marked park lamp front, and tail light rear, and the large blue (I think ) wire that goes to the dimmer switch. That is power out to the headlights and is easy to identify as its attached the the black 3 prong plug with the tan and light green wires labeled high beam and low beam. There is a loose wire in a bag for dash lights, and depending on what light switch you are using, a dome light ground wire. One last thought, you are wasting your money buying a new wiring harness, but using the old crusty ignition switch (and headlight switch/dimmer). Switches fail all the time, a piece of wire rarely fails.
I guess I got confused. Interior dash wiring boggled me.Yes it seems pretty straight forward with the wiring. have their book EZ & mine for 1958 GMC truck model 100 6cyl engine.I "goofed" and mesed with the "zip ties" so I had the wires in a mess. i pulled on the dark blue indicator wire and it ended up on the floor; just examples like that. guess i can trace backwards from firewall to instrument panel. Never saw wire labeled" heater" Ryan mentioned a good point; about changing the switches for new; but I would like to keep the original ignition cylinder w key that works the door locks. So will look into that, thanks. Tail light section , front lites/engine went as planned. The dash area-- Headlight , dimmer , and ignition switches and respective wiring are my gremlins-- only cuz I wasn't paying attention when I started trying to delete wires not needed.
I like the EZ harness, used a few, one in my 58 Apache. Slow down, read the manual. Juice comes from the battery to the switch. From there, it goes to all the other outlets. BCT's diagram is all you need. Batt is from the battery, always hot. Ign. is hot only in start and run position. Start is hot only when you crank. Acc is supposed to run most everything except the ignition circut so you don't burn up points or electronic ignition.
What I like about the wiring kits is that it forces you to do it their way. My Ford had some interesting factory wiring that had to be figured out, but it became evident that all the instrument cluster and other dash lights were common. The dome light got interesting. The OG one was a 1 wire, the kit was a 2 wire. So I bought a 2-wire socket (Wiring Depot) and had to make my own mounting clip for it. The Kwik Wire kit had 2 red wires (#30 & #35) for lights and gauge power. I made up a bracket to hold 2 terminal strips. I used jumper clips to make whatever I needed to be common. It worked out very well.
Okay have a "V8" switch. on the back I have IGN#1 and IGN#2 . where does the pink coil wire go? Also have a red and black wire crimped going into a red wire -where do these go?
Pink coil wire to ign 1. Ignition wire to ign 2 Accessory wire goes to acc batt goes to batt purple starter solenoid wire goes to sol, red wire with spliced black wire goes to batt. You don't need the spliced black wire, or can use it as a spare non switched battery wire.
I put an ez wire kit in my model a and it worked great you can search my thread Kenny g from Philly in introduction pages I have a section in there for ez wire
I'm in my 3rd week of installing the 12 circuit in my coupster. Taking so long only because I'm threading and unthreading the wires in different routes, trying to make them "disappear" and not be noticeable. The 12C harness is universal and designed for a pick-up, there fore the moving and relocating takes a lonnng time. I also purchased the ignition switch (with Ford key) and light switch (with Ford bezel) from American Autowire. Used them in the '35 and found they wired up well. Also helps to lay it out on the floor first to get things heading in the proper directions.
My son and I have used EZ Wire kits for years and when he was still in his early teens could do a car in a weekend alone from start to finish. 55 Chevy, 57 Chevy, 57 Ford, 41 Ford, 48 Chevy truck, and more. To us Painless is a pain because of the cost.
I have always used Ron Francis wiring kits, and would recommend them to anyone. They also have good tech help if needed
Kwik Wire helped me out with a question I had. I could have figured it out for myself in time though.
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