The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by oldrelics, Nov 30, 2010.
Interesting, thanks for posting
So what you are saying is same shit!
what happens when you grind the continuos weld flush, beat on it with a hammer, then bend it?
does it crack in the weld or tear the parent metal adjacent to it?
oh, I didn't do that one.....and probably won't
I used two rolls and could not see a difference so went back to the standard stuff.
The guys at the welding supply place where I get my Argon mix (or whatever it is) bottle filled told me it was the same. This pretty much proves it.
Your kinda missing the point of easy grind wire.
It's more malleable or workable.
-As in hammer welding.
Easy grind is made to be worked longer before failing while using less force to accomplish the task.
Hammer welding is a poorly understood body working technique that is seldom used in body shops as the so called fabricators are not really welders as much as they are a guy with a welder at his disposal and they know nothing of hammer welding or what it would be useful for.
A good fabricator/welder will know how to work a hot weld bead to reduce warpage/shrinkage as he welds a panel into place.
Easy grind allows for easier working of the weld whether it is hot or cold.
Mig wire (in general) is very hard and brittle.
Easy grind elevates some of the hard brittle nature of the actual mig wire that is deposited in the the welded panel.
Also, your pic of the broken metal at the edge of the weld just means that the two pieces of metal were identical/malleable and hence the (similar pieces of) metal broke at about the same place under the same amount of stress.
The metals malleability or lack thereof has nothing to do with how malleable the actual deposited wire or weld was.
As others have mentioned, work the weld then report back .....
....Perhaps once a person understands how the wire was made to be used and how he can make use of the wire, then maybe a more positive revue of this (excellent) wire will result.
-Reading up on hammer welding might also help to understand the idea behind using a more malleable mig wire to yours and to it's full advantage.
Additionally, a person might benefit form being able to install patch panels with less warpage which ultimalty speeds up the job of restoring your project while also improving the quality of your restored body.
Also consider that a person can save considerable money on things like sandpaper and fillers over and above the time that is saved in not having to use them to such an extreme extent.
"As the weld cools, the metal wants to shrink, so your job is to counteract the shrinkage and return the metal to its original shape. As soon as you finish the tack/weld, position your hammer and dolly directly over the center of the weld and start hammering on-dolly. Don’t overdo it, though—you’re not hammering a nail into cement. Let the weight of the hammer do the work, but work fast. The whole procedure only lasts for about 15-20 seconds from beginning to end"
I was just testing its own claim of "EASY GRIND".
I'm done with it.
It does say "easy grind".....
My dad experimented with a low carbon steel wire (basically all EZ-Grind is, from what I understand), and saw a huge difference in ease of grinding the welds. Grinding can cause warpage just as easily as bad welding technique,so I can see the benefit. The softer wire also makes it easier to hammer, as previously mentioned. He has some EZ-Grind, but hasn't used it yet. He gave me a roll of his low carbon steel wire last weekend, but I haven't tried it yet.
I can't seem to see where you actually ground or hammered on the weld beads to test the "easy grind" claim.
5th and 6th photos show welds ground on the ends of the pieces not middle butt joint. Never hammered anything, not what I was trying to do.
MoeFuzz is right, the Easy Grind wire isn't just supposed to be easier to grind, it's more malleable so after the weld proud is ground smooth, you can hammer & dolly any high & low spots along the seam.
People tend to think that TIG or gas welding is the only way to repair a panel, but many metal craftsmen have proven that it's not impossible to have a perfectly metalfinished joint using MIG. I'm thinking the Easy Grind wire will aid in this.
the tensile strenth of E-Z GRIND is right at 50% of your standard mig wire. using it for anything other than sheetmetal work is asking for trouble. i used to bitch about cost but ESAB claimed shorter production runs increased the product cost.
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