Early Sun Tachs and Transmitter instructions.

Ok Boys this is for you guys.
l compiled here some info about these Sun tachs and the transmitters because l have a couple of them.
So there's copies here of instuctions and pictures to help shed some light on this subject for some people.
Plus its not easy finding this stuff.




Wiring for the Trasmitter














If you look l have the replacement battery for the Sun 1766-7....1.35
volts to the Duracell Mercury battery RM 12 R ...1.35 volts.


Heres the back of the tach.


Heres a link to my photobucket account where there is over a hundred photos of more early vintage sun tachs and transmitters.

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v162/LORYDER/Ricks Garage/SUN TACHOMETER/

 

Thanks very much for this post. I am running out to the garage to see what transmitters I have in stock!

 

thanks for posting...kinda a tach head myself (collector)...but didnt have this info...wonder who built the factory tach in my 56 Plymonth Fury?

 

Thanks for posting the photos and info. Good stuff!

 

Any ideas? I have an EB-1 and an EB - 2. Both are 6v, 8 cylinders. They appear older than the ones in your post. They have a square tag that has rivets in each corner holding the tag to the backalite case, and the attachment points are screwposts, not tabs and screws like on a voltage regulator.

Jay

 

VERY nice thread! Thanks for the great info!

 

Jay, I believe the EB-2 is 6v 6cyl. I have a couple of the same transmitters myself...nice pieces!

 

What l believe the 56 Plymonth Fury where made by Steward Warner and they have a transmitter unit to,but you would have to reserch it some more and if you do find out post it up it would be great to know.





Heres one on E-Bay..
Plus its only Buy it now $995.00


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1956...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

 

Cool,OK,here's mine with the box and my question is the terminals on the
back of the tach say "ign. sw.","dist.","ground" and of course the pigtail for the light. That lead me to believe I didn't need a transmitter,but if I take
the rubber stamped 3 64 on the label as a date then I'm thinking most
all these old Sun tachs used transmitters. I haven't and won't hook it up
to try until I can get some definitive answers,but I'd like to install it in my
6cyl,12v,neg ground Hudson and wonder how it will play with the Crane
Cams ignition.

 

lm not a tech guy on this stuff but l know a little bit, any ways maybe get a hold of Sun and talk on there tech line and get it from the horse mouth.
Any how l came across this on another site. this is what they came up with about this stuff and lm passing it on to you guys.

This is what transpired.

A points type distributor and an HEI type distributor put out different shaped sign waves and the old analog tachs cannot read an HEI style output. That is why the early cars had 2 different style tachs available. If you were running a TI type ignition (High energy, no points) you needed a tach that was stamped "breakerless" on the back. If you try and hook up an early Impala, Chevelle, or Camaro with TI to a standard tach, it will not work, period. Conversely, if you try and hook up a TI breakerless tach to a car with points, it will not work either. In some rare instances, an early standard tach will read about 0-1800 or so, but there is no way that we have ever found to adjust it out to being correct. At idle (about 750-850) the car will read about 200 or so and as the RPM's are increased to about 5k, it will come up to about 1800-2000, and eventually the tach will quit working altogether. I have personally had about 2-3 people burn out 65 Impala tachs that I sold them hooking them to an HEI system. Our 70 Monte Carlo SS tach would not work until we put that filter in line on the tach wire. Same situation on a 70 Nova SS with console gauges and factory dash tach. Our 66 Impala did not work either. You must add a filter to the line for the tach's to work properly 90+% of the time.

This is what they came up with about a filter.
This just some more info to think about and research because lve never done this.

Old Sun Super tach - the one with the sending unit on the inner fender. It works fine with my Mallory Comp9000 breakerless ignition. However, I gave my partner a Sun Super tach (without a sender unit) for a Christmas gift and it does not work with his MSD ignition. I have yet to try the filter, which is nothing more than a resistor in series with the tach output on the distributor.

The "filter" for the MSD is nothing more than a 10,000 (10K), .5 watt carbon resistor





Which are worth only a couple of cents each.

l Hope this will help you out and if anyone else can add to this it would be appreciated.Or let us know of your out come Ramblur.

 

I was wondering if anyone knows how to get a Sun or SW tach to work with Pertronix?

 

Good info ! Thanks for sharing .

 

The EB-1 is for 8 cylinders; I have with an RC-50 Tach in my flathead '40 Ford.

 

Ramblur, your tach does not need a transmitter. You have what was refered to as a one piece tach. By 64 Sun was making both style. Your lucky in that you don't have to worry about hunting for a good transmitter.

LORYDER, your misinformed about the old one piece not working with HEI. I've got a one piece I bought new in 64 and have used in on almost every V8 I've had since then. Many of them HEI. Sun

 

My Sun blue line works with the Pertronix in my car, the box was converted by Williamson's Instrument Service.

 

anyone have a pic of the backside of the early style sun tachs that don't need a transmitter?? I don't remember if mine states it requires a transmitter or not?? it's an 8k or an 8500 rpm tach and the face looks the same as the one ramblur posted only a higher range.

 

Somewhere on the internet someone has all the info for converting
any Sun transmitter to work with any ignition.
I had the info for years and did several hundred.
It involves changing part values in the transmitter box.
I gave all the info to someone who was writing a book on electric Tachs.
Maybe he will speak up.

 

Here you go this is a one piece

 

Sun moved from making distrubutor testers into engine analyzers later. they were bought out by snap-on quite a while ago. I worked for their field service organization about 10 years ago, they didn't support tach's then.
their service organization was called equiserv, and their number was 1-800-225-5786. If you can get hold of their tech support guys you might be able to find someone who's been around long enough to remember these, or be able point you to someone who does.
FWIW, as far as I know, they're still making engine analyzers, 5 gas analyzers, and dyno's.

y'all have a good day, Keith

 

I have an EB-5A transmitter. It says on it it is for a 6V 4cyl.

It came with a 324 Olds with a dual point mallory dist. It uses a single coil but the coil has two primary wires. One from each set of points.
Could this be the proper transmitter for the dual point 8cyl setup and be hooked to only one primary wire on the coil?

 

Great info, I''ll be saving this page.

 

Thanks Muttley, that's encouraging. Currently I have an Ignitor II on backorder from JEGs. Hopefully my tach won't know the points are gone.

 

thanks for this it will help me too.

 

Thanks for the great news. One piece tach and NO transmitter needed.
The Hamb rules! I'll bump this thread when I do the install.

 

I've got a mallory dual point in a y-block ford, one coil, one primary wire. I've got an EB9A transmitter. Not hooked up yet. Wondering if I have the right stuff. Also, what is the "amplifier" in the schematics for? I dont have one. Do I need one? T

 

VERY interesting as that back looks MUCH more familiar to me than the ones saying "requires xyz transmitter" hmmm guess I'll have to run over to my brothers and pick up the rest of my crap from his house to check!

 

Something I didn't mention. The style tach rumblur has was available as both a one piece and a two piece. The two piece was on the market first

 

I went and got my tach to take some pics, looks like somebody got some overspray on the back of it, any idea what I got??

 

No idea,but here's a pic of the back of my one piece.
Don't know that it makes any difference but the #
on my faceplate is 2245-13C. Likely because its
0-5000 rpm.

 

anyone have an idea what will take off the paint without hurting the ink??