Projects Early Dodge Brothers turtle deck roadster project

Hi, Folks;

The wife learned how to use eBay and all at once I had orders to bid on these Dodge Brothers pieces. Who am I to argue? I "have all the fun cars," she says.

She wants this roadster to have FENDERS and CLOSED HOOD/HOOD SIDES... she wants it to look classy. I have attached 2 pictures that when she saw these she said "YES"... so, I know what I am going for (even though I can't find a pic of a Dodge that looks the way she wants).

My questions to this esteemed gathering:

1. Can I get this look with a Speedway 27 T frame? There are so many sources for T frames, it boggles the mind. I bet each of you have your own opinion... I am willing to listen insofar as a Speedway frame would not enable me to reach the goal. Hell, is the T frame my best option?
2. The Dodge body appears to be longer than a typical T (I am 6' 4", so I am not complaining)... is there a "best place" at which to extend a typical T frame?
3. I see that people have used '32 fenders on T roadsters. Is my selection criteria for fenders primarily the width, or how much tire I have to cover up?
4. I know my engine space is limited. I have access to a 270 Poly, which I am inclined to select over a baby Dodge Hemi. I offer this up as detail in case anybody has some experience in this area. I am confident I will have a good running engine, but I would hate to have ruled out the small Hemi if somebody made it work in a small space.

 

Sorry, I don't have your answers, but that is going to be cool when done!

 

- X2

 

The frames are WAY bigger than a T. Partially because of the paralell leaf up front and quarter elliptic to leaf spring (bubble) in the back. The frames were also essentially perimeter frames. So if you want to channel that body, a T style rectangle ladder frame would be the ticket, but a 100" wheelbase might not result in the look you want. There's a chance it will though, because these DB bodies are kinda like an early T with Model A body dimensions.

I've still got the 17 DB touring if you want any measurements (and a set of fenders).

 

If you can't find a good old DB frame or don't want one, I'd suggest using a TT or AA frame over even a modern/Speedway T frame kit. You're going to want 4 - 6" deep frame rails for structure and to balance out the body. 3" may look like twigs coming out of the body up front. It'll give you some insurance running the Poly or a baby HEMI too.

Those rear wheel wells are located in a specific spot on the turtle deck. That gives you a fixed point to work off of. That is where your wheelbase starts. Mark the center of that and work forward. You can mock up your needs with some 2x4's, 1x2's, & 2x6 boards.

 

The T pictures has T fenders and the dodge bros fenders are not going to look a lot different than those.

If you want to go with later fenders you want to use 28/29 A fenders. They are good looking fenders on a T. You can achieve what you are after with the dodge frame, no reason to chase something that you already got.

As far as the baby hemi and the poly, the hemi and poly will fit in the same box the hemi needs a little more room for the heads and you can make the poly perform well enough to more then push your little roadster around. I would run the poly if I had it unless I had a hemi in better condition.

 

@patmanta - I just subscribed to your '17 DB Touring thread
@porknbeaner - The frame shown in the pictures is T frame that the previous owner used to store the Dodge parts up off the ground. I do not have a frame... the 270 Poly I am looking at was rated at nearly identical power to the baby hemi for the same model year. I have a 392 Hemi and a 331, but quickly saw that space was going to be an issue. I still want to buy your Willys p/u, btw but you can see that real life has other plans

 

Here's a picture of a Dodge roadster @ Bonneville, probably in the early 50's. Looks to be on a model A frame with 30-31 splash pans and fenders.
I always liked this car and think I may have some shots of it in a magazine somewhere.

Mick

 

The willys turned into this:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/the-southern-employment-special.984088/

T frames are cheap cause no one uses them, but they are a little wiggly even boxed. We are using a T frame in this heap boxed and reinforced and we are still twisting it into a pretzel:


But they work well on a driving around car.

A common frame swap used to be an A frame under a T. They are a little more substantial and make the addition of A fenders a little easier. A frames are out there to be had and the nice thing about any stock Ford frame is that they have numbers which makes registering easier.

The Poly and the hemi were very close HP and torque wise. The heads breathed a little better but unless you are going balls to the walls and are willing to really work one they are only heavier and bulkier then their poly counterparts.

 

Dandy example, Mick! Those fenders make the perfect platform for the Dodge roadster body...
Full Moons and whitewalls finish it off nicely.
I remember this roadster from the pages of HRM, maroon in color?
Look at that pretty hemi.

 

If you are going to purchase an aftermarket frame forget the T bucket chassis. Look at a Model A frame or a '32, far more options.

@lurker mick, that Dodge roadster was featured in HRM '53-'55, I will see if I can find the article.

 

This all is great info! Thanks. I hope you understand how much time you all have saved us

 

Remind me if you don't hear from me with frame measurements within the next couple weeks.

What all do you have for parts available for this build other than the Poly?

I'd suggest you lay the body on the floor and roll the engine over to it and lay some tires next to it and take pictures. It will give you a start on visualizing what needs to happen. Having those rear wheel wells as a fixed point will take a lot of "maybe" and "well, if..." out of things which will make life a lot easier on a car that's not going on its stock frame.

RE: my 17 DB, I'm considering letting it go (at least to another HAMBer) at this point because I'm still neck deep in my T Touring/Modified/Lakester build and I won't get to it this winter. And even then, i might not want to do another touring car immediately after. We shall see.

 

Dodge Brothers frames are very duty.How about finding a Dodge frame? Not impossible to find, just not as easy to find as a Ford aftermarket frame. I'm going to be putting my 24 DB Touring up for sale in the coming weeks if anyone is looking for one of the cleanest DB projects you'll ever find

 

I usually start seeing old DB stuff on CL in the Spring around here. Folks getting into cleaning up their property and stumble upon or have them sitting in their woods, behind their barns, in fields and decide it's time to pass them along. I've seen several different DB cars over the past few years like this.

 

Speedway T frame is also going to have a suicide axle mount, out in front of the radiator, which will be hard to deal with to make fenders line up.

I like the pic above with A fenders on (what I assume is) an A frame. Tons of good resources on how to build them with a Hemi/Poly engine, do one just like you'd planned to put an A body back on it, but use the Dodge roadster.

 

nice project your starting. A friend of mine has used a dodge 315 hemi in his 33 dodge 5w coupe and its fits with the sides on. I'm not sure how much of a difference the engine compartment is to yours.

 

If you don't use any type of mopar frame then definitely model A all the way.

 

@Squablow - I zoomed in on the roadster pic I am using as a "target" and that seems to have the spring in front of the radiator. But that whole front end looks packaged into a smaller space than a Speedway T. What are the differences ? Trying to learn.

 

Model A might be on the short side for a DB body and will certainly need boxing to handle that Poly. I'd still strongly suggest a AA truck frame over an A. They're heavier, simpler, & you can cut them to length.

AA:


TT:

 

So cool!!!

 

Coolest Dodge roadster on the planet!
Just add cycle fenders for wifey!
Sorry about the OT Plate!

 

Love this thread!

 

Well not squablo here but the difference is that the cross member is under the grill shell and not in front of it. Unlike the T or A grill shells there is room between the front of the radiator and the front of the grill shell on a deuce. Look how the bottom of the grill shell is cut off to clear the spring and the spring perch actually sticks up into the insert.

Just give her a Poncho and one of those Nor-Easter hats and forget the fenders.

 

a little inspiration

 

@PNB... is the axle/spring on the "reference roadster" Spring OVER the axle where speedway's T is spring-behind plus the whole mess is set out in front of the radiator?

 

I'm building a 25 DB 5W coupe on A model frame. I did have to section in 6" and I am running boxing plates. This will be plenty strong enough for my coupe body and a Hemi, so your roadster and poly will be just fine on an A Model frame.

 

@moparob - nice work! I am watching an A frame on eBay. Posts on this thread have strongly advised it and I was looking for advice.

I see that you positioned the axle ahead of the crazy Dodge Brothers rear fender position. I will have the same situation. Will you modify the body to remove the fender profile?

 

The A model frame is a good choice for sure, plus early Ford running gear like axles and brakes are very plentiful with a ton of aftermarket support there is nothing for dodge brothers stuff really and if you find it its expensive.

The rear axle is actually just sitting there in the pic, I have the axle centered on the body fender radius running a 31" tall tire on the back. That coupled with the hemi and longer body than a ford A model is why I lengthened the frame 10".

 

I have one of those deck lids hanging on the shop wall always wounder what the car looked like that it fits.