Sound deadner showdown some good read about sound deadner http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi
Actually the guy that did the original showdown is selling his own stuff now so that site isn't as good of a reference as it used to be. Here is the original write up that the guy did and it is a great read. http://www.dctra.org/files/1974_TR6_Carpet_Install/Sound_Deadener_Showdown.pdf Enjoy.
And I would put money on it that the metal that the Dynamat was put on was in rough shape before that Dynamat was laid down.
I have had experience with both dyna-mat and lizard skin and I can't say one is better than the other as far as sound goes but you can sand and smooth out the lizard skin and paint it.As far as keeping your car cool paint your car silver,it will be 30 degrees cooler than black!
Thanks everyone for your helpful responses, particularly the ones with experience with the brush/spray on liquid alternatives such as my link showed. I am going to try this stuff as I've been using the matting type, (Dynamat, Liz Skin, Lowes, etc.) for years and the idea of painting the sound deadening appeals. Thanks again! GA
http://www.polyguardproducts.com/products/Mechanical/alumaguard.htm Mechanical sound deadening. 150 sq feet to a roll and probably less $1 sq ft in the US. My neighbor runs a large insulation company that does work on everything from refineries to offshore platforms. I put a full roll on my 52 coupe. This is one that he suggested plus others. The other stuff for insulation the guys are talking about is bubble wrap with tinfoil on both sides. It is not sound deadening. I plan to use that as well. I also mixed hy-tech with rocker guard and have that on all my interior panels. Probably over lill but it should be cool/warm and quite. The best sound proofing would be to suspend a close cell foam (think gym mat or roll bar material ) in your doors and roof with an air gap. IMHO there are 3 things 1/ sound deadening to eliminate the rattles of the body panels ( look at the doors of late 40s ford, a big lump of tar sprayed in the center of the door for sound deadening) 2/ insulation to keep the heat out 3/ sound proofing the hardest one to do. (the 1st 2 will help)
Johnny1290 - I do not say that monster liner will lessen the DBs' anywhere in my post. The lizardSkin does that. The chassis saver goes onto clean metal before anything to keep moisture off the fresh metal. The monster liner is the to resist abrasions to the other coatings. I do not run air-conditioning and never will. I live in the Pacific Northwest and it would be a boat anchor. I wish you people would explain to me about your power to deduce the Dynmat was put down on shit metal or damp metal. It was not. Y'all can go ahead and put that matting in all over the place. It's your car. It is heavy and will hold in moisture unless they have updated their technology. If you are in a dry climate and run your air-conditioning often I doubt you'll have any problem with matting. As for comparing a car to a thermos in regards to LizardSkin ceramic coating: LizardSkin® Ceramic Insulation formula is an advanced, water-based composition of high-grade acrylic binders with air-filled insulating/reflective and sound-absorbing particles. Environmentally friendly, water-based Class A fire-rated No respirator needed; dust mask/protective eyewear recommended Spay application only; brush for small areas or touch up. Can cover hard to reach places like inner door panels Cleans up with soap & water Each 2 gallon container covers 46-50 sq. feet @ 40 mils (40 mils = 1 millimeter) Proven aerospace technology enables LizardSkin® Ceramic Insulation to: Reduce engine and solar heat transfer by 25-30 degrees or more Protect surfaces from moisture and corrosion Withstand temperatures to 500° F. (260° C.)
Lowes $27 for a 24 inch by 25 foot roll, just did a 54 ford floor, spray glue and aluminum tape works great.
Check out a thread on hotrodders.com about a cheap alternative to lizard skin. They call it hmls, or home made lizard skin. From the info in that thread I made my own from miss tint paint (cheap) and glass micro spheres which are available from hobby stores. On top of that, I'm using peel and seal, purchased at Lowes. Also, lots of threads in this board about this subject, do a search.
I used thermo king duct wrap from home depot its a 24"x15' roll for $17 a roll did the whole floor in my 41 olds with 4 rolls worked great
I use 80mil FatMat. makes a world of difference on the cab noise. it's self adhesive and aluminum backed just like dynamat and comes in big rolls. I bought it on ebay # different times and have done my 78 camaro, 56 f100 and have it set aside now for the 52 cadillac. Comes with a roller and razor knife, installs pretty easily but set it in the sun for a day to kind of heat up and really bond to the metal. best thing I dig was lined the door skin and the outter panel. Amazing product, and highly recomended. here's the camaro
for the guys who used that Lowes peel and seal stuff... just curious how your ride is holding up still? is it still working well, or has there been any moisture issues? ill be getting to this stage of my '58 ford soon and im trying to decide what sound deadner is the best bang for my buck without costing me an entire paycheck! if that lowes or home depot stuff works well.... then i might invest in some rolls of that versus the expensive dynomat stuff..
I've had that roll up window seal stuff in my ot 68 jeepster for about 6 years now. There are only 2 problems I ran into. 1) on the firewall next to the headers, it peeled up or lost adhesion from the heat. 2) I put some inside the doors (why not) and one side fell down and stuck to the glass. I didn't clean in there at all LOL I havent looked for rust problems, cause the top leaks LOL
Luvz The peel and seal is the BEST bang for the buck. It really works and is soo much less expensive than almost anything else. You'll like it. Jim
Interesting thread. Some great alternative here. This is something I've been thinking a lot about lately. I'm in the market very soon!
I recently did my 59 ElCamino with FatMat from ebay. it delivered quick and worked well. Took me the better part of the day to install it on the whole inside of the cab. I was amazed at how much it stretches and sticks into the lowest of spots. Recent 2100mi road trip and the wife thinks it's quieter and her feet didn't get as hot on the floor.
Bringing back an old thread. Is there anything to be gained by using Fat Mat or Mega Mat as a sound reducer, and then EZ-Cool for insulation. Looking for ideas for an F1 Panel Truck. A big area to cover.
Yes. The XXX Extreme by FatMat is 80 mil thick, sticks hard. By your adding the EZ-Cool on top of the Mat your really killing both vibration and heat transfer from undercarriage. Put what you can on the fire wall. Out side door skins. Even if its a lesser brand (Peel and seal) use something everywhere to really make gains.
I bought the Lowe's roof patch material, and believe it'll work ok. My florrs are new, and in primer, so rusting under the deadener shouldn't be an issue. 4TTRUK
Used peel and seal I my 50 Mercury interior. Covered the floor and the roof interior. It works great here in SoCal and really cut down the heat on my black car. Took the car to Hot August Nights in Reno last week. The peel and seal fell off the roof in a hot sticky mess in about 10 minutes on the first day. Outside temp was 90 or so. My two cents no vertical or overhead applications with peel and seal, does not hold up. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
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