Technical Dropping the 35 coupe?

Hey guys,

So I'm more than likely picking up a 35 ford 5 window coupe within the next few weeks and the first thing that needs to change is the stance. I like my cars low, like really low but would like to keep things traditional.

I've searched the forums but didn't find anything on lowering them.

Anyone have and wisdom? I assume drop axle, removal of leaf springs and some blocks but is that it?

If anyone has any links to parts or anything I would greatly appreciate it.

 

Well, you could flatten the rear crossmember, which would put it in the dirt, but that would require pulling the body. And unless you split the rear bones, going too low can cause the wishbones to hit the frame(ask me how I know).


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Dropped axle works. Reverse the front spring. That is about it for the front. For the rear, you can extend the spring shackles and maybe take out a leaf or two but not a lot else to do without loosing the ride, (bottoming out). How far do you want to go and how much cutting do you want to do?

If it still has transverse springs, blocks are not going to do much.

 

Can't use blocks to lower a car with transverse springs, but if you want to raise them, that would work.

 

I guess I forgot to ask if you still had the stock rear end.
Parallel leafs would be much easier to lower.


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^^^
Parallel leaves are the way to go. A pretty easy conversion.
Did them on my '35 slantback

 

For the front, I'd unbolt the U Bolts, wishbone and brakes, roll it out, lift it up to working height on a work bench. Soak all the fasteners with penetrating oil, then blow it all apart with the impact next AM. Order a dropped axle, dropped spring (don't mess with the 80 yr. old one) shackles, etc. Now's the time to replace/repair/paint the steering, brakes (upgrade?), bearings, etc.
When done, roll it back under and you'll know it'll be all good.

 

Thanks guys, I forgot that the axel is under the leaf springs.

 

I'd like to get it a little lower in the rear than this one. I like the ass sagging look.

 

It all depends how much work you want to do, I'm assuming it still has the stock rear setup (banjo, wishbones and transverse spring). Front is fairly easy, dropped axle (have your original Ford one lowered, Ansen is by you), pull some leafs or if you want really low reverse eye main (and maybe pull leafs).....you'll start hitting fender on turns if you go too low. Rear is harder, reverse eye main, remove leafs, flatten cross member or open driveline with parallel leafs tucked inside the frame rails.

 

Correct it is all stock as of right now. Awesome thank you!

 

I like this one!
From Mills and Company.


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I appreciate it guys! So, thinking about it a little more I'd like to keep it traditional to keep the cost down.

 

Can you explain the flattening the crossmember?

 

Is swapping the rear to parallel leafs traditional?

 

The rear crossmember is dropped down in the middle where the spring sits, by cutting and welding it to make it flat you moved the spring up and lowering the rear.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/tech-week-flatten-an-early-ford-rear-crossmember.865310/

I would say parallel leaf isn't really traditional, but an easier way for an open driveline conversion.

 

Awesome!! Thanks for the link!

 

Before you rip your 35 apart talk to someone ( on phone or in person) who has already done what you what do do. Get specific info. about dropped axle, dropped spindles, tire size, etc.

One big change that will effect your plan is changing to hydraulic or disc brakes. At that point you might want to consider converting to a parallel leaf springs and an 8 in. Maverick rear. That means new rims and tires plus a new bolt pattern. Remember, every change you make changes something else so FIRST do your home work and get your game plan together. That way there are no surprises. Your car is a beauty. Good luck.
PS: Here's a thread worth reading.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...s-guide-to-buiding-a-hot-rod-part-2-5.499192/
When you Google: How To Lower a 1935 Ford Coupe, you get more reading material and potential folks to contact.
https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=how to lower a 1935 ford coupe

 

Thank you!

Question, what is a Posi Spring? I keep seeing that term but I don't have any clue what it is. When I google it I just see leaf springs.

 

Go here:
http://www.posiesrodsandcustoms.com/
Posie is a company in PA that makes hot rod components and also builds hot rods. They have been around for years and have a good reputation. Posie is known for their springs which allow you to lower your car without sacrificing ride quality. I have a Posie spring in my 40 Ford. Keep in mind a reversed eye OEM spring lowers your car 1 inch. Posie also makes springs that lower your car even more. A 4 inch dropped axle lowers your car 2 inches and requires dropped spindles. Tire and wheel clearance can become an issue if you go too low. That,s why wheel offset and backspacing are critical along with tire size. Keep asking plenty of questions like you are doing.

 

Awesome thank you!

 

Front end like this, CE axle and Posies spring will put the center of the front bumper mount hole 12" off the ground and about 3" between a thin bump stop and the axle.
The rear pictured is 27-1/2" at the fender lip and again has about 3" between the axle and a thin bump stop. This is about the bare minimum of suspension travel. I don't think you can get as low in the rear as you want (from the pictures you posted) without a C-notch and probably even a step notch kit. Probably the the fronts on a couple are MII with bags to get that low.

 

Mine is a little too low in the front (rubs when turning), Super bell 4" axle, reverse eye spring and the rear is a parallel leaf kit with 3" blocks. When I return to working on it those will be changed to a stock Ford drop axle and re worked rear leaf springs with no blocks. I started it in the early 2000's and have learned a lot.

 

Thank you! I found a 35 that I really liked and decided not to go too low. I'll post the pic below

 

Solo: If you decide to go with a 4 in. dropped axle consider having it made 3/4 to 1 inch narrower than the stock axle to provide more fender/tire clearance. Give Nostalgia Sid a call as he drops axles. Be sure and tell him if you will be changing out any of the stock 1935 Ford OEM suspension components and brakes. Of course, this assumes you want to keep using the I-beam axle so as to remain traditional. If you go to Mustang II this doesn't matter.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/nostalgia-sids-dropped-axle-service.647246/

 

I'm going to go with everything traditional on this build. The only thing I may change is the brakes.

 

Solo, that second '35 you pictured sits absolutely perfect. There's nothing you could do to improve that one.

 

In Jivin' Jer's thread about recreating the Jesse Lopez '41 Ford, he (and Jesse back in the day) cut out the rear cross member and replaced it with a hunk of straight steel 2x4 and some gussets. Scroll down a bit on this page...
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/recreating-the-jesse-lopez-coupe.726708/page-31

It's a pretty severe drop (8"), but for a tail-dragger it seems easier than cutting the cross member. I don't think that's the stance the OP is going for here, but I'm curious to see what guys think of this method.

That tech article from Marty Strode is great. Kevan Sledge has another variation on the same theme here (again, he's going for the tail-dragger stance)...
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...-another-40-custom-in-the-works.681319/page-6

 

Awesome thanks! Kevan is actually my neighbor so I'll give him a call.