We started on this project a couple of weeks ago and about half way through I realized I could make a tech article out of it. This article is about taking a '40 Ford rear end and modifying it to fit a stock '32 frame with a Model A rear sping/crossmember and a Halibrand QC. I know this has been done several ways before, but this is how we did this one. First we mocked up the frame with the '39 trans and '40 rear bells and axles to the Halibrand QC and Model A rear spring. We got everything real tight and then attached the U-joint to the trans and the driveshaft with the stock coupler on to the QC center section and took a measurement. We came up with 50" for this driveshaft. *NOTE-always check your measurements, don't use this as a rule. Next we cut the torque tube at the rear portion of the tube about 2" in. We then chucked this small section in the lathe and trued it up square. Then we attached that portion of the t-tube to the QC center and the other long portion of the t-tube to the front coupler and took a measurement. We came up with about 52". *Check your measurements-don't use this as a rule Next we cut the drive shaft at the rear section, this leaves the bearing surface in tact so it can ride on the bearing (I have heard some people eliminate the bearing because the shaft is now shorter and doesn't really need one). We beveled the ends to be welded together. Next we had to fabricate a coupler. We took a peice of round stock about 3" dia. about 5" length and bored out the center to the driveshaft diameter. The we bored 2 sets of holes about 3/4" through the coupler piece in opposite ends. These holes will serve two purposes. Next we took the fabricated coupler and slid it ove the driveshaft ends to be joined. We used the 3/4" holes to line up the ends and to tack the ends in two places, rotating the coupler to used the hole on the other side. Next we rotated the coupler (keeps the driveshaft lined up while welding) and TIG welded the butted beveled ends. *Clean all metal parts real good before welding. Next we centered the coupler and then TIG welded the coupler through the holes to the shaft in four places (4 holes) for strength. Then we TIG welded up the ends of the coupler. Here is a shot from rear end of the driveshaft: Next we cut the torque tube and squared up the end and the placed it in 4" angle iron, clamped it and tacked it up in 4 places. Then we proced to TIG weld the torque tube, making sure the weld area is clean it all times. *Oil and grrease build-up in the tube will get hot and melt and contaminate the beveled groove and it will need to be cleaned before proceeding. Here are the parts now shortened: You can barely see how the bearing surface lines up with the zirk fitting fort the bearing in the torque tube. Here is the driveshaft and torque tube installed in the chassis: Weld cleaned up on the torque tube: You can see the U-joint in there lines up good and there is room for the speedo gear and clip. Next we needed to shortend the rear trailing arms or radius rods depending on what you may call them. First we cut off the ends and clean them up and bevel them. Then we bolt them to the bracket on the torque tube. Next we bolted the trailing arm to the axle bell end and then slowly bent the arm (while heating the rear end of the rod lightly with the torch) to get it close to the bolted end. We then take a mark and cut it. Unbolt it, bevel it then get it lined up. This is what I had to do to line it up to tack it. : Here it is all TIG welded up and cleaned up: Once you do the trailing arms and tighten everything up, you now have a '40 rear end with juice brakes set up for your '32 with Halibrand QC.