D.i.y. Engine turning stainless

STUFF REQUIRED
Drill press,engineers square,permanent marker,steel rule,wire brush approx 7/8 inch diameter,jubilee clip(hose clamp!),electrical tape,lubricant,stainless steel sheet,lots of patience and a steady hand!
STEP 1
Mark out the stainless sheet with a grid of 1/2 inch squares using the marker,square and rule.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=665793&stc=1&d=1242947596

STEP 2
Bind the wire brush with electrical tape and firmly secure with hose clamp around it about 1/4 inch from the end to stop the brush splaying out too much.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=665796&stc=1&d=1242947930
STEP 3
Set drill speed at about 500 rpm.Generously lube the work piece and,from the top left corner,using the grid as a guide,lower the brush into contact with the stainless.Apply gentle pressure in an up and down motion for about 10 seconds but do not allow the brush to loose contact with the work piece.Take note of the reading on the drills depth gauge to ensure a consistent pattern.Once you've done the first 'swirl',lift the brush and move to the right and make a second,overlapping the first by 1/2.Carry on until the first row is completed.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=665801&stc=1&d=1242948592
STEP 4
Start the second row as before,overlapping the first row by 1/2.Then continue until the work piece is completed.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=665804&stc=1&d=1242948834
It's not perfect but ,it cost next to nothing except time,oh a lot of time!
TIPS
Practice on scraps first.
Every now and then,clean the work piece and re-mark the grid if neccessary.At the same time check for any mistakes and correct them.
If you're tired/pissed off,take a break.It's real easy to screw up.
Hope someone finds this usefull.

 

we used to use awooden dowel, and valve-grinding compound

 

Nice job Mark

 

I might try that on alluminum , just less presure ?

 

I'm doing the same thing on the roadster dash. Plan to use 1/8" aluminum and brass wire brush. I found a plastic zip tie works to keep the brush bound up - but a hose clamp sounds even better. Been practicing and it looks good. I like the grid idea marked on the work piece. Also I'll try to use a "fence" set up on the drill press so you can run the work piece to the fence and then simply move the work left or right for each row. At least that part of the row should end up straight. Another idea picked up on the HAMB is to set the drill press stop where you get equal down pressure on each swirl. I plan to get the metal in a rectangle slightly larger than the flat space on the dash, do the work and then cut the perimeter to fit and then drill the five guage holes. I tried using WD40 on the aluminum practice runs and it seems the swirl pattern is "brighter" or has more sheen than not using a lubricant.
OK, here we go....................

 

Hi,Tom.I'll maybe try that method next time.
Hi,dana and thanks.
Hi,Ned.As RuFFDaWG suggests,maybe use a brass brush on alluminium.I think the wire brush may too harsh.
Hi,RuFFDaWG.You're right about the drill stop only my drill press is a cheapie,probably put together by underpaid kids in a third world sweat shop and doesn't have one!You're dead right about making the part oversize and cutting any holes afterwards,I should've put that in the thread,thanks.

 

Just joined and have found a wealth of great ideas on the site. Thanks for sharing

Dave AKA 41gasser

 

You're welcome,Dave.There are other methods of doing this,some probably easier,just used equipment that was available to me at the time.

 

I have used a small scotch brite pad on a rotolock mandrel for putting a pattern on aluminum. Don't know how well it would work on stainless though.

 

I use a 3m rolok sanding disk or scotch pad depending on the material. It seems much easier to me than a wire cup.
heres an example on a painting I did recently. I wasnt trying to make a perfect pattern. I just kinda went willy nilly, till the panel was covered.

 

This is how I was going to do it also, but on aluminum. I have a few different sized mandrel type brushes that I've bound tight. I'm working on an X-Y table design that I (or anyone else) could build on the cheap so the work pieces doesn't have to be marked. I'll update you when I finally do it.

Thanks for sharing Mark! Looks great!

 

I used a piece of plywood with a 5/16" square grid pattern and a metal impregnated rubber dowel with a 1/4" arbor on the drill press. The dowel is made by "Cratex Manufacturing" They can be purchased at any tool supply store. The dowel is #1350, it is 7/8" in diameter and 1" long and comes in fine, medium, and coarse which is the one I used. The arbor comes seperate, but you can cut the head off of any 1/4x20 bolt and use it. I bought my dowel at Bass Tool and Supply here in Houston. I did the aluminum gauge panel for my '40 pickup. Cut my holes first then sanded it with wet/dry paper up to 1000 grit, and used 3-in-1 oil as a lubricant when doing the turning. I found this method in an old "Fat Fendered Street Rods" magazine "Fall 1991 Volume 1, number 3"

 

I had a go at engine turning some time back and I used 2 clamps on the drillpress table to use a guide for the metalplate to slide along during every circle.
After you're covered an entire line on the plate, move the clamps for the next line of circles and start over.
I think you get a cleaner and cripser look this way than eyeballing the plate under the brush.

 

Here's one application on my 32 roadster-----Don

 

What kind of lubricant needs to be used?

 

you can use anything from cutting/penetrating fliud to motor oil to nothing at all.. I generally dont use any depending on the look Im going for. If you want a softer "brushed" look I would recommend some kind of cutting oil

 

Man thats COOL. I got my drill press a month ago and have alot of sheet stock .
I'm gonna get to the higher end of mediocre on this.

 

Thank for the posts,guys.There's some great tips that I can try out later.
Scooter,looking forward to the update on that table design.
Vinny,love that panel.Might try something like that once I've got the car finished.
Don,that dash is superb,thanks.
Mark

 

I reckon you could use a series of wooden or metal strips to space the work away from the fence, add or remove one for each row -- it would save moving the clamps for each row.

As for columns an oversized sheet on the drill press table could have indexing lines drawn and the work moved to match them for each column.

 

We've done the wood dowel trick it works good, What we did was turn down the pressure on the blasting cabinet and blasted the end of the dowel the sand sticks in the wood more than it take s it away, it last for awhile then you have to blast it again, Thanks for the info I'll give it a try

 

Some people just have too much time on their hands!LOL
Nice work!

 

man thats engine block is the work of a true fanatic , you sir are a patient man lmao , great work

 

Wow! there must be a secret to that or hes the worlds most patient person.
Ive done a few decorative pieces and i dont know if i would do it again with out a digital readout or our cnc. LOL.

 

I have always used "Craytex" http://www.cratex.com/rubkits.htm

but I think I will try the wire brush.....

 

Go to Eastwoods' technical library on their website and look up "engine turning", they even have grit blended rubber dowels in various sizes to order with all tips you need!! Have fun!

 

Thanks for posting great info.

 

Mark, you're so dreamy

 

Killer thread - I never thought of using a wire brush for that. I like it.

 

My drillpress has laser crosshairs. Maybe it'll make it easier to line up. Gotta try this. Thanks.

 

Grits,you just reminded me of one of my favourite lines from the movies;
"There's only two things that come out of Texas,steers and q*****,and I don't see no horns,boy!LOL