Technical Chevy 350 center bolt valve cover question.

Hey guys.
I have a question on how to get away with having a centerbolt valve cover as short as i can(with nothing sticking out of them like oil cap etc.)
I have a 90s center bolt engine that i converted from fuel injection to carburator.
Its going to my COE everything fits except the rear of the valve covers hit the bottom of my engine cover.
I need to find some center bolt rocker covers that only have a oil cap or breather and nothing else.
Like this:

Will i be hurting the engine if i dont plumb a line from the rear of the rocker cover to the carb?
Can i just weld the stock covers holes and leave the front filler cap hole?
Thanks guys.
Here the engine...please ignore the carb

 

Right angle fittings helped me, use the stock PCV, nothing incorrect and undersized.
I blew gaskets and seals screwing around with insufficient crankcase and PCV venting.
It was a pain in the wallet and waste of time learning my lesson.
Keep 're breathing.


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Can you just relocate the pcv and fill holes to the front of the valve covers? I'm pretty sure that engine will want a pcv valve.

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maybe it would be easier to modify the engine cover for clearance? how much do you need? maybe a big dimple would do it

 

Not hard to find in the here in the city . Scroll here > http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Search?query=centerbolt&page=2 By the way, Pomona Swap is this weekend.

 

Easiest thing to eliminate is the filler cap, PCV and breather then should be happy at corners with the most room. Filler function is unnecessary as oil can be poured in through PCV hole easily enough.

 

You should be able to find the angled Moon style breathers at Pomona, preferably the low profile style.
Mount them on a cover side or end like on standard covers.






Here is an old HAMB thread on pcv systems.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...c-or-any-other-engine-for-that-matter.159551/

 

Great replies guys,i nwed1to go a n inch down on the rear of the engine so the dog house can sit flat with no mods...
If i could id pancake the rear of the rocker covers and eliminate the filler cap in the rear thus leaving me with a pcv and breather on the front of the engine where i have plenty of room.
Does the pcv always have to be on the left side of the engine?

Btw i bought a pair of Stedebaker rocker covers(the plain,no script stuff) not because i wantes to fool anyone but to make my engine look better,it doesn't have breather holes nor filler cap hole nor pcv hole since i assume that the stude had one on the block..
I hate to drill holes on it plus its taller than my stock covers..bummer
I need something like this: and just turn the cover so that both holes are to the front,no?

Sorry forgot pic

 

When I was running a centerbolt SBC in my A, I ran a PCV valve in the back of the manifold, behind the carburetor, with a baffled grommet.

You could do this, and weld up the other holes, as long as you include an intake for the PCV system somewhere. It can be anywhere that accesses the inside of the the engine. I have even seen them go where the fuel pump would be, if the pad is there, the pushrod hole to the came is present, and you do not have a fuel pump there, or even the side of the oil pan, by the rail.

The PCV valve is a dumb piece of metal and plastic. It does not know what side of the engine it is on.

 

That would require drilling and tapping the manifold or/and block right?
I am afraid id screw something up or leave metal shavings in....i just need to delete the oil filler hole.i think...
When i get home later will post pics of my predicament.
Thank you

 

The manifold PCV does require drilling.

I went back and looked at your picture. Here's what I would do:

1. Use stock covers.
2. Remove the fill tube and close up the hole on the passenger side.
3. Flip the drivers side cover to put the hole in the front (only if that is a clearance issue).
4. Breather in one hole, PCV valve in the other, plumb accordingly.
5. Fill via the breather side, with a funnel, naturally.

 

Truck TBI centerbolt covers don't have the fill tube, and it is on the drivers side:

These might actually be the same covers pictured in your initial photo, just side-swapped, and with the truck fill cap where the fill tube is.

Knowing GM's habits, they would be the same covers, and the fill cap is the same too. Try taking the fill cap off of the fill tube, removing the fill tube the same way, and installing the fill cap where the tube was.

Oh, and if you are not running the original serpentine belt system, but switching to old-school v-belts, make sure you put on the correct water pump, or you will be running it backwards.

 

Thank you.!!thatll be so much easier

 

I did switch to the v belt and swapped pumps,just because i had a new one from my last truck(1980s)
So that should be good...Thanks.

 

This is how my motor protrudes inside the cab..
Will it hurt if i lower the tail on the transmission?
The base of the carb is level there.

 

What is the pinion angle work out to.
The level carb is nearly irrelenent.
Can't yo knock a couple dents in the dog house to clear the valve covers?

 

Its kind of hard since its where the big hump starts.
U can see in the nextpictures that i modified my dog house ans had like 3" of clearance but it robbed way too much room in my already small cab so i went back to stock and would like the interior to look as stock as possible.

 

What about adding 1" to the dog house, and lowering the tailshaft 1/2"?

 

That could probably work..
Im going to try to make a dimple on each side before i add the 1"and have to modify the rest of the firewall cover...theres a removable firewall cover ,Removable Transmission cover and doghouse..if i raise the doghouse,the lip that seals the doghouse to the firewall cover needs a lot of modifying ..thanks for all the ideers!

 

So i need like 5/8" down so my engine cover can sit flat.
I made the oil cap lower so i can bang a little dimple on The pass side where it would be somewhat easier.
On the driver side will just use a 90° or elbow gromet like this:

Heres some crappy pics.

btw i cannot turn the covers with the gromets to the front..the baffle gets in the way when i trt

 

I've been watching this thread since it started. Forward to today and this popped up on my FB page.
.

 

Clock parts ?

 

No, some guy making (from scratch and machining) small scale models of 30's style coupes. Those are his idea of valve cover's.

 

Thats what i need..thanks

 

Lol. If it where that easy. Sometimes we just need to sit back and laugh for a moment.

 

I know i been fighting and cursing at my project but it keeps me sane

 

Can you help me get my bearings here?
I need a shot if the outside of dog house cover that shows where these two close/tight fitting areas are located.
Here ________. And here -----


I see the shots of the cover but can't make sense of it.

Is there any reason the cover needs to stay the exact shape it is in now? It seems sort of an elaborate shap for a reason but it's not apparent to me from the info here. Right now there's no apparent reason it should be like that.

I get that a 3" rise was too much but did that give the clearance needed below?
Does the carb and air cleaner fit under the cover?

 

^^^^^ Wow ! Lots of flat stock left and right of the dog house at the floor. Split that coconut down the middle front to back and widen it with flat stock that conforms to the shape then trim base to fit the floor again. Just a thought. I have no idea how attached you are to the dog house being 100% original.

 

I am very attached with it being as OG as i can..i need all the room i can get.