The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by noxided, Sep 27, 2010.
This is how you fix a floorboard with holes it.
No, you should use old license plates or street signs to be traditional
That's funny, I did a little of that on my Brookville RPU cab. (Not BV's fault for the extra big holes) It gets really hot in Louisiana and my legs and feet were cooking this summer. A little tape and much better - enough to get me through to this winter anyway when I'll take it apart to fix it right.
a cheap fix is the start of having to fix it again, just do it right the first time you will be much happier
Yeah......but if you're broke, adapt and overcome my friend.
Agreed. A cheap fix becomes the standard after leaving it too long. Then it becomes the way you "fix" it when it goes bad again. Make a set time to fix it and stick to doing it then.
Holes are nature's way of giving the water that's leaking in a way to get out.
so, did you use a mig or a tig?
When I built my '56 Chevy panel, it was on a real budget- still 3 kids at home- so everything was on the cheap. So I repaired the floor and lower door hing mounting area by pop riveting sheet metal over the hole (trimmed the rusted edges and used sealer around the holes before it was pop riveted in place). The only thing is- it has now been over 20 years and about 170,000 miles and it is still fine. A daily driver for nearly 10 years of that on salted Colorado roads. Other places have rusted, but no problem with the floor. Doing it "right" to me is keep it safe, do what you can afford and have the tools for, and get it on the road.
yea, these were all small pin holes but the metal is to thin to weld them up so i taped them untill i get a job and then they will get properly fixed.
Fixed your post for you.
What??? If your gonna do a job like that, at least use the OG. Duct tape.
one of my good friends does that for body work.....then bondos over it!!! i think its time for new friends. at least it makes my work look better hahaha
Screen and roofing muck and then undercoat ,Problem solved ,If its a driver all fixed.....Patch from both sides with muck that is
some chop strand fibreglass and epoxy resin on that and it will last for ever and then only someone that looks real hard will know what you have done he he
Yep, before I had a welder and had to do things "on the cheap" this is the way I did my patch panels. Worked great.
I think I bought a car from that guy!!!!@;@!#$!!!!!
When I was in my 20's I had done that a lot. They always went to the auction after I got done
It was done for a local used car dealer............Never did by a car from them.
Man I have done this lots of times on down and dirty repairs.
Back in the early sixty's when I was in high school, I used old shingles and a lot of tar.....worked pretty well but stunk when it got real hot !!!
as i understand my seats and seat belts are attached to the floor, so do i really want duct tape and roofing tar to hold the floor in place
Sure you so, if you have a solid floor when you get in a wreck or have to stop fast your seat belts will yank you back real hard. With a weak floor it will flex and thus make the seat belts be smoother "untill you hid the dash or windshield"
The last one I did was on my '68 Impala. I used chimney flashing, pop rivets, sheet metal screws and gutter and lap caulk. I gave it a shot from the flip side with the caulk and coated both sides with driveway crack sealer.
I've done the fiberglass repairs for smaller holes before and they held up amazingly well. Just scoured out the major rust, did the resin and cloth thing all covered by another coat of resin on both sides. Had to let the resin set up a tad before doing the bottom side. Once you encapsulate the rust completely, it either stops it dead or slows it down.
hah, that might be ok for you western people.... but we got real holes....
That would be improvise, adapt, and overcome.
I have made some basic cobled repairs over the years on cars that I needed to drive, so I have little room to talk. Never the less I would probably try and put some metal in those holes if I was building one.
It is a doable fix though.
what kind of tape is that?
That's aluminum tape for sealing duct work. You can buy it at lowes or home depot or most better hardware stores.
your right my mistake
mr. fred flintstone your car is ready
Separate names with a comma.