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Building a 300 six

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by drag_punk, Mar 19, 2011.

  1. drag_punk
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    drag_punk Member

    Getting ready to start building a 300 Ford six and just wondering if anyone has any advice on parts selection or any assembly tips. I've build engines before but never one of these, it will be going in a 64 Ford Pickup. Thanks!
  2. Homespun91
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    Homespun91 Member

  3. drag_punk
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    drag_punk Member

    Thanks, by the way it will be a mild driver.
  4. newrider3
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    newrider3 Member

    A good exhaust upgrade for these motors is the split manifolds from the newer EFI motors. They flow nearly as well as headers, and are a lot more reliable than the cheapo headers that are made for the 300. A set of EFI exhaust manifolds, and an aluminum intake really wakes the 300 up. There are some common 4bbl intakes from Clifford and Offenhauser, there are also some more traditional multiple-2bbl intakes to be found if you look.

    The next biggest gain you can make for cheap is a port and polish job. The 300 head has notoriously poor flow. Another cheap upgrade (if running a stock cam) is to use rockers from a Chev 250 six, they are a higher ratio, and provide more lift.

    Here's a couple forums with a lot of good info:

    http://www.fordsix.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=2

    http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum52/
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  5. drag_punk
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    drag_punk Member

    I do plan on porting the head, I've done this before on my own engines. Glad to hear it is worthwhile. Hopefully I'll pick up the engine in the next week, I'm getting it for free so I can't complain.
  6. newrider3
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    newrider3 Member

    They're a great motor for a driver. I have one in my o/t truck and love it.

    You won't win any races with a semi-stock one, but the torque will uproot trees.
    With a good tune they are good on fuel also.
  7. willowbilly3
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    willowbilly3 Member

    fordsix has the shit, great forum for info.
    My shop truck is a 300. I have the efi manifolds, Offy "C" intake, 390 Holley and a 268H comp cam. I don't recommend this much cam. It runs great but you loose that bottom end torque a 300 is known for. The best torque cam is stock or Isky Mile-a-more.
    I am also running a Duraspark II dist with an EFI coil and a GM module. That seems to work pretty good. I have heard a lot about using Chevy 250 rocker arms, a little cheap valve lift. That's supposed to pick up a few hp.
    Also the 300s biggest problem is the heads don't flow for shit. Any porting, even an amateur job, will help. I did a basic cleanup on one a few years back, and a gasket match. The difference was amazing.
    I like the earlier head with adjustable rockers, many have zero lash rockers.
    Hardened seats didn't come until after 72.
    oops, I see newrider3 beat me to most of that.
  8. HJmaniac
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    HJmaniac Member

    Last edited: Mar 20, 2011
  9. choptvan
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    choptvan Member

    I am stuffin one into my 63 f100 right now. I got a mallory distributor and an MSD box. It already had an offy 4 barrel intake and a set of headers. I do suggest a 4 speed for it. 83-84 ford mustang GT. Called a R.U.G. transmission. The shifter pod is adjustable so it can clear the seat. It does reuire a bit of mod to fit it, but very easily done. I know where one is if you are interested. It would need a shifter and he is a hamber!


    forgot to add. I used a newer block. Like a 84 or so. I pulled a 66 block out that I ran for a bit. I have it dropped a lot and was having clearance issues with the oil pan. The newer block had a different shaped pan that had better clearance for my application.

    Also, if you need any tips or have any questions, just ask. Good luck!
    Last edited: Mar 20, 2011
  10. willowbilly3
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    willowbilly3 Member

    Just remember the 88 and newer (efi) blocks have no provision for a mechanical fuel pump.
    I'm running a ZF 5 speed and love it.
  11. Phil1934
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    Phil1934 Member

    1-15/16" Chevy intake is a good upgrade over 1-3/4". You can do 1.6" Chevy exhaust but I did not feel it was worth trouble over 1.5". Head iron is tough so will port slow. I did pull a rocker stud, though, so pin or thread them. 260 cam is like stocker. 270 has slight lope. Thermostat housings are different as 240 will barely cover holes in 300 head so use 300 housing. 300 has larger clutch but either works.
    Last edited: Mar 20, 2011
  12. rjaustin421
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    rjaustin421
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    It has been a while since I built a performance 300 but I believe that there are V/8 Ford pistons with the same wrist pin diameter and compression distance so you may have piston options. Also the aluminum cam gear matched timing set is a lot quieter & lighter than the steel set and if you install a roll pin in the timing gear oil hole to direct the oil right between the gears the gears are lubed better and will get a bit quieter.
    Do not consider the fiber cam gear set.

    If you are going to add compression start adding duration to the cam to reduce the cylinder pressure, the 300 is prone to breaking the ring lands from pre-ignition. With all of the torque in that engine you have some cushion built in for a bigger cam. Shoot for no more than 150 lbs. cranking cylinder pressure to be safe and if you get up to 10:0-1 compression look for 220-225 degrees of duration @ .050 valve lift.
  13. tuckpoint
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    tuckpoint Member

    240 head smaller combustion chamber, bolt on.
  14. dirtcop
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    dirtcop Member

    I had a 300 c.i. inline six in my 1965 F100 with Clifford exhaust, intake, and valve covers. It also had roller rockers. It had plenty of power and was very reliable. I think to boost power it needed head work and a cam, but did fine for a daily driver. I had a 650 cfm edelbrock on it, but I think that was a little too big for the engine. Check out Clifford's website. I talked to them a couple of times and they were very helpful.
    Mine was not a high rpm engine, so gearing would have to right for comfortable freeway cruising.

    Attached Files:

  15. mtkawboy
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    mtkawboy Member

    Not really needed for a street motor but 300s out of F600s have forged steel cranks. Buy a Sissel head if you have the money. A 302 bellhousing bolts right on as well as the early flywheels but check for balance. I ran a 600 Holley on a Holman Moody intake but they are rare these days. Chevys V8 pistons will work but watch valve relief locations if using big cam. If I had it to do over again Id use a C4 instead of the 4 speed but I built mine in 1971. There are some very fast 300s on this forum that might give you more up to date info too. Deal with people who really know these motors not just anyone.
  16. drag_punk
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    drag_punk Member

    The 300 will be replacing a 262, will it bolt to the same bellhousing? It's for my sister's truck so I can't just go outside and look. We can fab whatever if need be, are the mounts going to be similar? Thanks
  17. Hnstray
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    Hnstray
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    If I rcall correctly, the 215/223/262 earlier engines have a differen block pattern then the 240/300 later engines..........the 240/300 being the same as 6 bolt bell small block Ford V8. So, if that is the case, you will need a different bellhousing. I don't know about the motor mount situation.....sorry.

    Ray
  18. Hnstray
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    Hnstray
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    I recently acquired a 300 that was removed from an F600, though I do not know for sure it was original to that truck. How does one positively identify a forged crank vs a cast one on a 300 six?

    Ray
  19. havi
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    havi
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    Colonel Flashman did a nice build up too.
  20. willowbilly3
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    willowbilly3 Member

    Those would 390 pistons. You have to bore .050 to use standard bore 390 pistons. I have a set and the rings, bearings ect. that I don't need. pm me if interested. IIRC they will bump the compression some too.
  21. drag_punk
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    drag_punk Member

    Thanks everybody, I believe I am getting a bellhousing with the engine so hopefully that will bolt to the stock trans. I'll know more when I pick it up, just waiting on the gentleman to clear his garage out.
  22. drag_punk
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    drag_punk Member

    Got the engine disassembled today, bearings were shot but no real damage. I did end up getting a bellhousing and clutch fork, so hopefully it will bolt to the stock trans in the 64 3/4 ton. Looks like we will have to fab the mounts but that's okay.
  23. Jalopy Jim
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    Jalopy Jim Member

    here is some pictures of mine, 10:1 compression, mild cam, 390 cfm holly.

    Attached Files:

  24. Hnstray
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    Hnstray
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    Looks terrific!!

    Ray
  25. drag_punk
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    drag_punk Member

    looks good Jim, thanks for posting. Is that the early 90's split manifold? I think that's the setup we are going with also.
  26. nvr2lo
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    nvr2lo Member

    Very cool. A 300 six is in the plans for my 58 F100. good luck.
  27. Traditions Racing
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    Traditions Racing Member

    Ray, if you can visually inspect the crank, heres what to look for. Look at the parting lines on the counterweights and journal throws. A cast crank will have a thin somewhat sharp edged parting line. A forged crank will have a flatter and wider parting line from the forging process.
  28. bluebolt
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    bluebolt Member

    The 64 trans input shaft is too long. Use the later matching transmission, the previously mentioned overdrive would be your cheapest bet. A T5 or truck 4 speed T19 would also work. I put a T19 in my 66 f100 with a 300 six.

    An aftermarket FE 390 engine swap crossmember has been used to swap the 300 six in earlier straight front axle trucks.
  29. THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
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    THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER Member

    [​IMG]

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    300s...love 'em.
    Your best bet is to peruse the fordsix.com forum. For a daily driver I think a good build would be:

    EFI exhaust manifolds
    hypereutectic pistons (stock cast are prone to crack) w/ stock compression ratio
    FelPro #1024 performance head gasket
    Cloyed gearset w/ cam advanced to straight up
    Offy C or Clifford intake w/ Autolite 1.08 or 1.21 2V carb
    Chevy 1.75 RAR rockers w/ screw-in studs
    mild porting in the bowls - don't bother to port match

    That will really wake up sis's truck and she'll thank you for such a pleasant ride.
  30. Jalopy Jim
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    Jalopy Jim Member

    I used the New Process bellhousing / Transmission from the 84 F250 I took the entire running gear from. Mine has the forged crank, and used Chevy 305 forged pistons. I had the same set tp in a 75 Ford pickup year ago less the exhaust and it ran great. The engine builder used that engine set up in a stock car class.

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