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Technical Breathing life into a 283 - FED Destined

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 402BOSSMAN, Nov 12, 2017.

  1. 402BOSSMAN
    Joined: Jul 26, 2015
    Posts: 428

    402BOSSMAN
    Member

    I finally decided to commit myself to a personal project. As a machinist I'm usually too busy to work on anything for myself but I think taking little steps along the way I can reach my goal. My end goal is to build the looks of a Jr Fuel FED from the 63-65 era but meeting today's safety standards. In the meantime I figured I would start on the engine.

    This story begins by contacting a close friend of mine who thinks he has a 283 laying "in the back 9" somewheres. Low and behold laying in a pickup box is a late 1962 283 with a bed liner that has been covering it for the past 15+ years. No valve covers, no carb or distributor, and surprisingly not locked up. A skid loader and log chain serve as a cherry picker to drag it back to my truck. A deal was struck for $200.
    IMG_20170922_225142_382.jpg
    After getting back to my shop I tore the 283 down to see what I had.
    20170922_204942.jpg
    20170922_204935.jpg
    Casting number
    20170927_112322.jpg
    Date code
    20170927_112328.jpg
    Upon inspection it was all original except for the newer Q-Jet intake manifold. Original GM bearings present and no surprise damage, cherry piece in my book! A trip through my spraywash cabinet got all parts free of paint and grease. Next step was magnaflux testing for cracks. Heads and block were crack free and in great shape! Since this block was getting machined in every aspect I then ran it through my steel shot cabinet to remove rust, scaling, remaining paint, etc to get back down to the raw casting and make it look new again.
    Before

    After


    The first thing I wanted to tackle was installing billet splayed caps in the center 3 mains. Pro-gram Engineering makes a nice splayed billet cap for the small journal 283/327 main size (2.300) and I luckily had a set laying around that I never used. Once I got the block on my mill the setup began.
    20170924_160527.jpg
    I had to toe clamp the block in position and used a dial indicator off the main registers to make sure it was parallel to my mill table before locking down. A 2" face mill was used (after zeroing my mill head in) to reface the main saddles a slight amount so everything would be flat and true.
    20170924_160535.jpg
    After accomplishing this and already setup I decided to take some material off the pan rails while I was at it.
    20170924_174433.jpg
    Next step was to sit the caps on and check fitment.
    20170924_160637.jpg
    With a stepped cap like this things can get tricky. Per the instructions there outer step on the cap needs to have a .0015 - .002 air gap. This requires me to grind the lower step on the cap using a cap grinder to reach that spec. The caps are on and off a half dozen times to inch up on it. Once I reached the desired spec it was then time to machine for the outer splayed bolt holes. This requires me to tilt the head out 10° based on the cap design. 10° seems to work best to not drill into water.
    20170925_100905.jpg
    Spot face with a endmill, center drill for position, drill to depth, and then run a tap down. Wash, rinse, repeat based on the 4.400 bore spacing of the SBC.
    20170925_112745.jpg
    All done with cap installation for now. It will need line bored and honed to size soon.
    20170925_120855.jpg
     
    Last edited: Nov 12, 2017
  2. sunbeam
    Joined: Oct 22, 2010
    Posts: 6,214

    sunbeam
    Member

    With the intake being swapped make sure you don't have a late cast crank.
     
    loudbang likes this.
  3. 402BOSSMAN
    Joined: Jul 26, 2015
    Posts: 428

    402BOSSMAN
    Member

    Its steel luckily
     
    Boden and loudbang like this.
  4. loudbang
    Joined: Jul 23, 2013
    Posts: 40,276

    loudbang
    Member

    This is going to be good :)
     

  5. now mill the bottom of the front main cap flat so you can install a steel bar on top of it.
     
    402BOSSMAN and loudbang like this.
  6. ididntdoit1960
    Joined: Dec 13, 2011
    Posts: 1,030

    ididntdoit1960
    Member
    from Western MA

    what are you doing for pistons? I lucked into a set of NOS 2275 trw's for the 61 283 in my altered...will you use aluminum rods?
     
    loudbang likes this.
  7. 402BOSSMAN
    Joined: Jul 26, 2015
    Posts: 428

    402BOSSMAN
    Member

    Next I'll share some of the parts I have acquired for it. Like everyone else I hunt for deals on parts. I stumbled across these Arias pistons for a mere $215 shipped and a set of 10 at that.
    IMG_20171011_014932_417.jpg
    20170929_163031.jpg
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    These pistons started this whole process for me actually. They are a 3.935 bore with a 1.885 compression height which is a little goofy. So looking at the math I could build a 292 or a 301. I've decided to go the 301 route in this case (3.935 × 3.100). I will need to offset grind the crank .100 and use the shorter 400 rod which is a 5.565 in length to make these pistons work with the deck height I will have to work with. Odds are I will get some aluminum GRP rods made for the actual length I need.
    20170929_162744.jpg
    So after calling Nick Arias III he informed me these pistons were built around 1976 based on the job number. These were a max dome deal to get as much dome volume as possible in the camel hump style combustion chamber. These have been lightened a slight amount and also have radial gas ports. Pretty trick pieces for their day and I'm assuming were built for a Modified Production/Eliminator type engine. They have .043, 1/16, 3/16 ring lands in them.

    My next score was a rash of Hilborn items. As a dealer for Hilborn I'm able to refurbish items as needed. I stumbled across this new timing cover that sat on a shelf for 30 years and had a mountain of dust and dirt on it. Quick cleanup in the parts washer and it's good to go after I replace the dry rotted seal.
    Screenshot_2017-11-11-18-23-01-1.png
    Then I stubbed across a few "0" Hilborn fuel pumps. One is brand new and the other was used for testing. I took the cover off both and they are cherry!
    20171023_194608.jpg
    20171027_194630.jpg
    I scored this Hilborn Injector a few years back. It sat and sat on Ebay forever so I tossed a offer in and won it. It is a Model #265-C-8M and has a serial #121. This makes it the 21st one produced of that model number so it is a very early piece! It is 2-1/16 in size, was O Ringed on the stacks for boost, and originally setup for methanol according to the info I received from Hilborn. Looks like it was built in 1976 as well.
    Screenshot_2017-11-11-18-24-57-1.png
    Screenshot_2017-11-12-09-57-37-1.png
     
    Last edited: Nov 12, 2017
  8. 402BOSSMAN
    Joined: Jul 26, 2015
    Posts: 428

    402BOSSMAN
    Member

    Yes, good point I plan to do that still. I just received a Tall Fill of HardBloc for it. Plan to pour up to the water pump holes.
     
    loudbang likes this.
  9. RichFox
    Joined: Dec 3, 2006
    Posts: 10,020

    RichFox
    Member Emeritus

    A few years ago, while building an NHRA Jr. Fuel motor while on the mill. We remover the fuel pump boss and the oil filter attach casting the bosses around the freeze plugs and in the end milled the sides of the block smooth. This block got filled with Hard block and did not run water. But Al said between us we lightened that block 25 pounds before the hard block. It was a bow tie block so it was heaver that a production block to start with. But there are pounds to lose there if you want to.
     
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  10. slowmotion
    Joined: Nov 21, 2011
    Posts: 3,330

    slowmotion
    Member

    I'm in for the education. Always liked those snotty little jr fuelers, and a 301 to boot! Go man go!
     
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  11. 402BOSSMAN
    Joined: Jul 26, 2015
    Posts: 428

    402BOSSMAN
    Member

    I'm considering that, not sure how carried away I want to get with it just yet. Not planning on being competitive just want to release some steam from time to time at our local tracks near me.
     
  12. great project, i look forward to updates

    what heads will you be using?
     
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  13. Rex_A_Lott
    Joined: Feb 5, 2007
    Posts: 1,150

    Rex_A_Lott
    Member

    Thanks for taking the time to document and post pics. :) . I 've had to pay for all my machine work in the past, but never got to see how it actually got done.
     
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  14. 402BOSSMAN
    Joined: Jul 26, 2015
    Posts: 428

    402BOSSMAN
    Member

    Great question, in short I'm undecided. I do cylinder heads and intake manifolds for a living so I'm trying to weigh out my options and how much of a time investment I may have. With these pistons I'm limited to a few options - factory camel hump (later style chambers 64/65 and later), a #034 Bowtie, a few various Edelbrock NHRA approved heads, or my latest find being a Trickflow 175 DHC head. Since I'm not racing in any particular group and more for fun I have some alternatives available in aluminum. I'd much rather grind aluminum than cast iron (have plenty cast iron heads in que as it is). I want the heads to look the part even if I decided to choose aluminum. My concern is repairs down the road, TIG welding aluminum is so much easier to deal with than the lost artform of repairing cast iron in my world.
    Screenshot_2017-11-09-22-22-27-1.png
     
  15. DDDenny
    Joined: Feb 6, 2015
    Posts: 19,144

    DDDenny
    Member
    from oregon

    Yes, painted orange with spacers and chrome script rocker covers.
     
  16. 402BOSSMAN
    Joined: Jul 26, 2015
    Posts: 428

    402BOSSMAN
    Member

    Good minds think alike Denny!
     
    Gary Reynolds, mad mikey and loudbang like this.
  17. Deuces
    Joined: Nov 3, 2009
    Posts: 23,757

    Deuces

    When I was gazing at the domed pistons, I noticed that they have a bunch of sharp edges all over the top which create hot spots. Hope you plan on rounding those out.. a CNC mill should do the trick..
    And then glass bead the tops..;)
     
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  18. ZAPPER68
    Joined: Jun 13, 2010
    Posts: 208

    ZAPPER68
    Member
    from BC

    I'm going to be keeping my eye on this build...thanks for bringing us along for the ride.
     
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  19. 402BOSSMAN
    Joined: Jul 26, 2015
    Posts: 428

    402BOSSMAN
    Member

    They will be getting massaged a bit.
     
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  20. woodbutcher
    Joined: Apr 25, 2012
    Posts: 3,310

    woodbutcher
    Member

    :DThis looks like a fun build.I`ll saddle up and go along for the ride.
    Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
    Leo
     
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  21. 402BOSSMAN
    Joined: Jul 26, 2015
    Posts: 428

    402BOSSMAN
    Member

    Hardblock was the task for today. I mixed everything up per their recommendations. This will get a tall fill which will basically go to the bottom of the water pump hole.
    20171113_104856.jpg
    Pouring this stuff in by yourself is a challenge. It's still a little thick so a long rod helps to move it around. A small air hammer for vibration helps move and settle it in place.
    20171113_115150.jpg
    Topped off
    20171113_115135.jpg
    I opted to leave it in my boring stand to cure for a few days since I know it's level.
    20171113_141633.jpg
     
  22. lippy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2006
    Posts: 6,825

    lippy
    Member
    from Ks

    So this is an alcohol engine? Lippy
     
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  23. ididntdoit1960
    Joined: Dec 13, 2011
    Posts: 1,030

    ididntdoit1960
    Member
    from Western MA

    Fuel = Nitomethane
     
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  24. ididntdoit1960
    Joined: Dec 13, 2011
    Posts: 1,030

    ididntdoit1960
    Member
    from Western MA

    I know its getting a little ahead, but what will you use for a clutch, clutch can and direct drive? in/out box? reverser? please dont say powerglide
     
    benchseat4speed and loudbang like this.
  25. lippy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2006
    Posts: 6,825

    lippy
    Member
    from Ks

    I stood next to one of those once. :D Watching with great anticipation.
     
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  26. 402BOSSMAN
    Joined: Jul 26, 2015
    Posts: 428

    402BOSSMAN
    Member

    It will start out on alcohol. I have a learning curve ahead of me. Luckily I have Gene Adams in my corner to help give me insight. Eventually I will tip the can.
     
    t-bolt, Tim, mad mikey and 3 others like this.
  27. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 24,524

    Roothawg
    Member

    I love me some really small blocks....
     
  28. 402BOSSMAN
    Joined: Jul 26, 2015
    Posts: 428

    402BOSSMAN
    Member

    Don't know yet, engine first, chassis next, decide on trans then. Considering Direct Drive.
     
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  29. lippy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2006
    Posts: 6,825

    lippy
    Member
    from Ks

    Maybe a two disc glide and a reverser. Doubt you will have the power for a high gear deal. Never know if it's light you may. Tracks are awful good now days.
     
    mad mikey and loudbang like this.

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