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BRAKES, ansen pedal question...

Discussion in 'Tech Archive' started by Dan, Oct 6, 2004.

  1. Dan
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    Dan Member

    I have asked before to no avail but I'll give it another shot, maybe someone new can help - does anyone have a set of ansen (clutch and brake) pedals that they would be willing to make me a set of measured drawings of, I want to try and build a set-
  2. A-Bomb
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    A-Bomb Member

    Yes , that is what we are using. This set up takes the 60-62 chevy truck master cylinder that has both brake and clutch outlets. If this is what you want, I will draw you up a print and send it to you. it doesnt look very hard to make. Dale
  3. flt-blk
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    flt-blk Member
    1. S.F.C.C.

    Honest just made a set for his truck. He copied an
    origonal borrowed from Bass.

    If he doesn't see this send him a PM, I bet he can measure
    or take some pictures.
    TZ
  4. Paul
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    Paul Editor

    post them here would ya?

    Paul
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  5. Dan
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    Dan Member

    A-bomb that would be great I would like to see what you've, same with Honest-
  6. Rand Man
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    Rand Man Member

    What do they look like? How do they work? More info please.
  7. Paul
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    Paul Editor

    very basic three sided box with holes for the master to mount on the flat bolted to the firewall and a bolt going through the sides with two swing pedals hanging off it.

    bracket
    bolt
    two cleavis'
    two pedals

    some older car mags, Hot Rod, Car Craft etc, will show them in Moon ads. etc.

    Paul
  8. tommy
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    tommy Member

    If you use the Chevy truck m/cyl, don't forget to swap the cylinders innerds. The brake cylinder has the residual valve and your clutch will be slow to return if you don't swap the insides.
  9. Paul
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    Paul Editor

    here's a Moon version from '63

    Attached Files:

  10. Paul
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    Paul Editor

    here's a pair of Ansen singles

    Attached Files:

  11. fab32
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    fab32
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Paul, Thanks for posting that. I'm thinking anyone handy at fabrication could come up with something with that drawing. You could "scale" it to fit your application. Just remember to keep the pedal ratio correct, or you'll end up with a stiff pedal and little braking or lots of pedal travel (or the need to pump the pedal) to get the needed action.
    BTW, slave cylinders of different configurations can be had at any of the circle track supply houses. Maybe someone here can post a source, or just call Speedway Motors.

    Frank
  12. fab32
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    fab32
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    Also your local NAPA store has a listing for the master cylinder and slave cyl. that was used in the GMC/chevy truck application.

    Frank
  13. dabond
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    dabond Member

    No pics of the pedals, but here is the underhood view of my old Minor. I used the old Ford cylinders.

    Attached Files:

  14. Dan
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    Dan Member

    cool picture 60's style! that will help, I think all I probably need to do is get the m/c (or gasket if there is one, dont remember now if I saw one in the moon ad) for hole spacing and the rest should be pretty easy. I think I understand pedal ratio pretty well, the pushrods though - dont they need to be any specific length?
  15. Dan
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    Dan Member

    can anyone provide these dimensions?
    back of mount to centerline of pivot bolt hole? (the upper dimension lines on my drawing)
    center of brake pedal pad to clutch pedal pad (the lower dimension lines in my drawing)
    how thick of plate should I use?
    what to use for pushrods?
    how thick material for the pedal arms?
    anyone tell me how big and how far apart the big holes for the m/c are? how big and where to locate the bolt holes on the m/c?
    On 60's drawing there are two holes at location B and location C, why?

    Attached Files:

  16. 41ChevyTrucker
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    41ChevyTrucker Member

  17. Rand Man
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    Rand Man Member

    Anybody know how much one of those rebuilt Chevy master cylinders costs without a core? New Willwood clutch and brake master cylinders cost around fifty bucks each. The new slave cylinder is about fifty-five from www.daymotorsports.com
  18. alchemy
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    alchemy
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    napaonline.com has them for $31 plus $3 core, remanufactured.

  19. Rand Man
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    Rand Man Member

    Wow! I'm more interested now. Somebody get me some dimensions. I could manufacture a few sets of these if there's an interest.
  20. A-Bomb
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    A-Bomb Member

    here are the dimentions of our pedals. Sorry, I could not get the dia. of the two large holes. You can use your master cylinder as a guide for these and also the holes that bolt it to the firewall. The master cylinder mounting bolts go through the firewall and the pedal bracket holding it all together.

    Attached Files:

  21. A-Bomb
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    A-Bomb Member

    Just a couple more notes. A "c" clip snaps on each end of the 5/8 shaft to keep it secure in the pedal bracket. Also, I put a grease fitting in the top of the tubing that is welded through the pedal arms. Then you will have no wear or squeaks. I would use 1 inch o.d. tubing at the top of the pedal arms. Mine is smaller and there is barely enough wall thickness for the grease fitting threads. I also added a 1/8 thick plate between the pedal bracket and firewall that is about twice the size of the pedal bracket. this spreads the "load" out when you are mashing the brake or clutch and helps eliminate firewall flex. Good luck, Dale
  22. A-Bomb
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    A-Bomb Member

    the dimension missing for the height of the bracket is 4 3/4 inches
  23. 67Imp.Wagon
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    67Imp.Wagon Member

    [ QUOTE ]
    Honest just made a set for his truck. He copied an
    origonal borrowed from Bass.

    Sorry, I could not get the dia. of the two large holes. You can use your master cylinder as a guide for these and also the holes that bolt it to the firewall.

    [/ QUOTE ]


    The night Honest cut his out I was also starting a set.

    The large holes are 2 inch dia.
  24. tommy
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    tommy Member

    If you are just bolting the system to a flat sheetmetal firewall, add some reinforcing to keep the firewall from flexing especially on a panic stop. a couple of rods from the bracket to the dash board will help a lot.
  25. Greezy
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    Greezy Member

    Im running the same set up in my coupe I also have a 4" recessed firewall. So I had to do a little slicing and splicing for clearance.

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  26. Greezy
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    Greezy Member

    installed

    Attached Files:

  27. Detonator
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    Detonator Member
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    3. HAMB SURFERS

    The diameter of the "big" hole that the M/C sticks through is 2 inches. Yep, it's a good idea to reinforce the area behind the pedal set-up, it does get a lot of presure when you stomp on it...

    Note how the center of the piston bore is offset from the center line of the pedal arm. You can't use a regular clevis, you have to use a rod that bolts to the side of the pedal arm as shown in the illustrations. Anyone know a source for these?

    A note on the M/C: I'm not so sure the Chevy truck will work, I believe there was a post awhile back about the linkage in these trucks crossing over -- and the clutch and brake cylinders are reversed. I'm not familiar with these trucks, so I'm not sure this is correct or not. I used an M/C out of a 61 -66 International: Bendix P/N # 11357.

    Attached Files:

  28. fab32
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    Detonator, Wasn't it already posted that you should switch the internals on the Chevy master cylinder should be switched to put the residual pressure valve on the brake side? I think this might solve the crossover linkage problem you mention. The only other issue could be that there is a different bore size in the master cylinder.

    Frank
  29. Detonator
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    Detonator Member
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    Hey Frank -- I don't know if the Chevy has the same bore on both sides, but the International does, it's one inch. If there was a post on flipping the Chevy over I missed it. Seems like trying to switch the two sides might open a can of worms, but I don'r have any experience with 'em. Do you know anyone that sells the push rods for this set-up? Dave
  30. fab32
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    fab32
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    Detonator, The switching of the internals was posted on this thread by tommy, maybe check with him to see if the bore sizes are the same. I assumed they were when he posted about switching the residual valve from one bore to the other.

    Frank

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