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Bolt Won't Come Out!

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Mattilac, May 8, 2008.

  1. Mattilac
    Joined:
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    Mattilac
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Okay, I'm having a hell of a time trying to get this bolt out. As you can see, it holds the front eye of the rear leaf spring. The problem isn't that it's frozen to the bracket or anything, since I can turn the bolt using a wrench just fine, it's that no matter what or how hard I try, it just refuses to slide out. It'll turn and turn and turn all day, but pounding on the back of it and trying to pry it out doesn't do anything! The other side came out without too much of a hitch, so I'm wondering what the deal is with this side...

    The way I tried to bang it out was via a steel rod that I inserted through the back to hit the end of the bolt. The hammer won't reach in there, but no matter how hard I pounded on the shaft, it doesn't budge the bolt.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
  2. pitman
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    Hampsha

    pitman Member

    Any chance that there is a steel bushing in there? (check opposite side that came out?) If it isn't there, and holding the bolt, may have to cut the head off w/torch and push thru the opposite direction.
  3. Paul2748
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    Paul2748 Member

    The problem is rust on the inside. Even though it turns, it won't release the bolt. You have to soak it with Kroil, Gibbs , etc. and bang the hell out of it. That's they way I solved my problem.

    If you can rig up a bottle jack to apply some hydraulic pressure that may work. Never tried it myself.
  4. 35Chevy.com
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    35Chevy.com Member

    I would take a sawsall cut the head of the bolt off and pound it thru the other way.

    Gary
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  5. PRoz
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    PRoz Member

    use a sawzall and cut the bolt on each side of the spring bushing. The bolt is rusted to the steel sleeve in the bushing.
    The spring will just fall out and then you can get the remains out of the bushing on the workbench.
  6. 61 chevy
    Joined:
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    north carolina

    61 chevy Member

    cut bolt on both side of spring, it will drop down, you said it first
  7. toddc
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    toddc Member

    ^^^ what these two said. Good luck.
  8. tomcat46
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    salt lake city, utah

    tomcat46 Member

    Exactly...and assuming you have the chassis jacked up and on stands, put another jack under the rear axle and lift it enough to unload the bolt. So the weight isn't hanging from the bolt or pushing up, just neutral. That will make the bolt as loose in the hole as possible.

    I need to pull another leaf from the rear on my son's '65. So let us know which ones you end up pulling from the rear and how it works out.

    Tomcat
  9. dabirdguy
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    dabirdguy Member

    You need a bigger hammer.
    It's like a Blond...till she has 2 black eyes you just havn't EXPLAINED things to her.
  10. Willy301
    Joined:
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    Willy301 Member

    I am with the guys suggesting cutting the bolt on both sides between the spring and bracket method, but I invested in a Mac air chisel and got the punch attachment for it. I have driven all kinds of stuck stuff out with that thing, but after awhile the hands go numb. Good luck with it.
  11. Zodoff
    Joined:
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    The cold place.

    Zodoff Member

    The bracket may flex on the bolt head side when you punch it,so it jams.
    Try to put a vice of some sort on the bracket\frame, and hit it again.

    Z.
  12. MetalMike
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    Phoenix Arizona

    MetalMike BANNED

    Do you have an air compressor, with an impct driver, and an air hammer? set up two lines. FAQ I am geting sick of this board!
  13. rustynewyorker
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    rustynewyorker Member

    FWIW if you end up cutting it make your life easier, use a cutoff wheel on a grinder. Will be a little faster and easier particularly if you have to lay on your back to do it. Goggles highly recommended. Don't ask me how I know this.
  14. Jonny69
    Joined:
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    Jonny69 Member

    I used a 1mm cutting disc in a grinder and cut the bolt either side of the spring. It was rusted solid in the steel bush and the rubber was the bit that was turning.
  15. Mattilac
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    Mattilac
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Yeah I kinda suspected that I would have to cut it off. That's what I had to do with the front leaf spring's rear bushing too. It's a pain in the ass the way it's in there, but whatever.
  16. PumpGasRatVette
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    Kingsville, MD

    PumpGasRatVette Member

    I'd try unloading the tension first, in case there is a wear shoulder holding it. If/when that doesn't work...CUT, CUT, CUT! Then beat the hell out of it. Good luck.
  17. Mattilac
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    Mattilac
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Oh yeah the axle is already unbolted from the springs, so there isn't any force on it.
  18. Shifty Shifterton
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    Shifty Shifterton Member

    Welcome to rusty ole junk! I mean classic cars and trucks!

    If you ever get something like this that a sawzall can't reach, an electric 1/4" die grinder with a 3" x 1/8" disc on a short arbor is an incredible weapon of precision destruction. Great for removing bolt heads in tight spots, and doesn't care if it's cutting hardened steel. Wear appropiate safety gear.

    Good luck!
  19. novadude
    Joined:
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    Location:
    Mechanicsburg, PA

    novadude Member

    If you can fit it in there, I've used those Ball-joint presses that look like big C-clamps to drive bolts out of these type of bushings before. Those damn sleeves practically weld themselves to the bolt after years of rust.

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