What type of analysis or trouble shooting can I apply to the following problem: Make: Chevrolet Model: Impala SS Year: 1964 Engine: 327 Tran: 350 Auto Coil/Dist: Mallory HEI When attempting to start the car, 20amp ign/acc fuse blowing when I turn the switch to the "on" position, I can't even get to the "run" or "start" position! * See attached doc for ign diagram.
Are you just installing the Mallory ignition or is this a problem that just started to happen on your existing system? Do you have the original white,orange,purple resistance wire going to the positive side of the Mallory coil or are you using a ballast resistor.
The Mallory ignition was already installed and functioning with no issues. I do not have the original wires connected. I'm using a ballast resistor. Sorry for the incomplete problem description, here's it is from the beginning: 1. Attempting to upgrade to a single "Spal" puller electric fan. (See fan wiring diagram attached file) 2. After installation was complete, I attempted to start the engine, the fan went on for a second, then the ign fuse blew at the fusebox. 3. Removed all electric fan wiring and toggle switch connections to trouble shoot the problem independently. 4. Now with the normal wiring back to normal prior to fan install, the ign fuse blows when turning the ignition switch to the "On" position, I can't even get to the "Start" position. Recap: I'm not sure what caused the problem, I'm double checking my fan relay wiring setup on the side. It's an after market relay I purchased off ebay. Do all relays connected the same way? 30: To 12V Battery 85: To Negative 86: To Toggle Switch 87: To Fan Attached files: electric fan wiring config, and relay pics.
Did you install a single pole double throw toggle switch as shown in the schematic.If you used a pole single throw it would ground the ignition circuit and blow the fuse.That might have damaged the ignition module. If you were not going to use the toggle switch then attached is a typical diagram for a fan circuit where the negative side of the fan would be grounded to the chassis.
Me having a "beginner" electrical background doesn't make it easy with some of the terminology, but let's try it this way. Lets identify the switch that I'm trying to use first, then you/we can determine which fan relay configuration I should be using. The attached pic is of the 30 amp toggle switch I'm attempting to use. 1. Is this a "single pole double throw toggle switch" shown in the pic? 2. Is 30 amps an overkill on the toggle switch, can I still use it, or? 3. Should I run an inline fuse between the toggle switch and the fusebox? If I do run an inline fuse, what amp(s) should I go with? Toggle Switch Purchased At: http://tinyurl.com/8p97bys Thanks for all your help so far, it's appreciated!
The switch you are using should be OK.If you have it wired exactly the way you describe then the fan should work properly. You shouldn't need an inline fuse between the switch and the relay as the 20 amp acc fuse is protecting that circuit. You are only using that circuit to activate the control side of the relay which requires very low current. Did you have a good ground for both the relay and the fan motor. If the fuse is still blowing when the fan circuit is totally disconnected then you need to start tracing the problem in the acc circuit.Start by disconnecting the coil and see if your short is gone.
Attempting to remove my "Mallory Unilite Distributor Ignition Module" to have it tested. I successfully un-installed my distributor cap, rotor, and unscrewed the module, and disconnected the module cable (male from female.) Question: How do you remove the male side pins of the module cable connector? Are they just pressed in there, is there a tool or tip to remove them?
ok, here's where I am: 1. removed ign module to have it tested, however every auto store and auto electrical shops (most reputable ones) said that after market modules can only be tested while module is installed in the dizzy. The module test machines they have can only test stock type modules! I can not test the mod unless the car is not blowing ign fuses! 2. The wires to the "S" and "R" starter/solenoid check good for continuity via multimeter and physical appearance. 3. Removed the ignition switch and noticed the housing was a little loose, so I removed it, inspected it for burnt wires, all looked good. Re-Installed the ign switch, tightened the housing real good and the engine began to crank now, but it was still blowing the ignition fuse. 4. Physically inspected all other wires, under dash, connected a 12v light to ign fuse connection and went through disconnecting most everything I could track down to see if the 12v went off while in ign switch start position, no positive results. 5. I removed the 4 pin connector to the voltage regulator and noticed that the ign system no longer blows the ign fuse while turned to the "on" position and the engine still cranks (but of course the engine will not start due to the voltage reg being disconnected). Is this a valid test to warrant replacing the voltage regulator? Not giving up yet!
Forgot one follow-up question: The previous owner is the one who upgraded the stock ign system to HEI. The car had been running fine with no ign system problems prior to the "fuse" issue. Question: When upgrading to a HEI system, is it normal to NOT reconnect the original wires running to the positive side of the coil? In other words, just use the Mallory wiring configuration and disconnect the original stock ign system wires. See my first attachment on the Mallory config, there is a comment right below "Figure 3" that states "all other wires originally connected to the coil (+) terminal", this statement is somewhat misleading!
The engine should still start with the voltage regulator disconnected as it only controls the generator output. See the attached PDF that shows a quick test of the Unilite module and the proper way to wire it.Make sure you read the whole file as it has a lot of helpful information. It doesn't take much to fry a Unilite module.You can get a filter from Mallory that will help protect the module.The biggest cause if failure is bad grounds that can cause voltage spikes.Make sure that the engine is properly grounded and the connections are clean.
Just got back from vacation in N.Y.! Replaced voltage regulator and capacitor, I'm no longer blowing fuses when ignition switch is turned to "on" or "run/start". Attempted to start engine, it cranked but did not start. Executed a test on the Mallory distributor module, but it failed! The volt meter displayed a continuous variable reading on both tests (sensor blocked). Time to replace the module?!
The test is pretty straight forward so if it failed I would say the module is bad.It doesn't take much to fry the module. As stated prior make sure you have good engine grounds and consider installing a Mallory filter.I believe you can get them from Summit...not too expensive
ok, I received my new parts (mallory module and power surge protector), both installed and tested positive via voltage meter (12V), ready to fire up the engine tomorrow morning (leaving the fan configuration out of the picture for now, just want to make sure the engine fires up, then continue with the fan configuration after a few more tests on the toggle switch. Update: Battery a bit low, currently charging!
Successfully started car (excluding fan configuration)! I had my 4 yr. old battery load tested and it failed, purchased a new one and the engine started with the new module and module power surge protector! I then tested my electric fan setup (without the engine running) and it tested good with the toggle switch (no fuse issues). I will start the engine today, toggle the fan on and I should be good to go! I wanted to say "Thank You" for all your help in resolving this issue, it's truly appreciated!
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