I was just thinking about an offset starter . race cars use them . there are many different styles . but ... you got there first .......... good 4 u ......... steve
Rich that was bad luck at least you can locate the correct convertor keep us up to date when you get all going
Not much going on in the rebuild, been too cold lately, -2 degrees c in the mornings Coldest start to winter I ever remember. But always working on little bits to keep moving forward. Picked up more from the blasters
Morning project at the kitchen table while my I look after the kids and my wife is at work. My version of a leakless waterpump. I picked up a part of this water pump kit with a bunch of other old A parts so not the latest style. I did not have a front bearing so took the shaft and housing to a local bearing supplier and came up with this idea. Using a Torrington bearing with a seal in the front, so it's still able to be greased and any excess will come out the inside of the housing, not inside the fan so easy to clean up excess grease. Should handle the alternator loads with ease. All done
Well a nice present arrived yesterday, now have my intake. Just have to sort out matching 94 carbs for it, I have 2 of them currently but are not matching. Still trying to work out the starter issues, found my converter is correct, have a 148 tooth converter and 9 tooth starter. Actually went back to see a local Mopar parts place in Elmore again to double check everything and cannot work out why it does not work? Will bolt it up together again and just hope,,,
Today picked up another 9 tooth mini starter (swapped it over) and a very old secondhand 318 style starter that the Mopar place had under a bench in a scrap pile (wanted it for future rebuilding as it suits the engine in looks better) New mini starter in, no go. Thought I will try the cruddy old starter. Hooked it up and it cranked over perfectly Yea, one less problem. Just gave it a big clean, a quick paint and its drying in the oven. (Too cold to dry out naturally currently) Still don't know why it hates the new style starters as when you check out the throw out depth it should work. It's 9 tooth as well. Now going to bolt in the early 28 style crossmember with solid mount that will help me with accurately positioning the motor. Then test run time.
Sounds great Rich, Ive got a collection of 94's, I'm sure we could get a maching set for you! Not sure when you're over this way next? I'll be passing through on the bike in a few weeks all going well.
Hi Outback, might have to take you up on that offer. Will be over at Shep in a week so could continue the trip over to you. Also drop in here when you come past on the bike.
Today's job, turning this Into this All roughly put together, used steel pop rivets instead of rivets where Henry did but have not welded anything yet. Waiting to its on the chassis and subframe. Made up of repo sides (home made up in a TAFE school by a friend) lower door piller patches, I think 4 dead A model cars are in this. Have a issue where the lower door pillars are about 8mm too short, no idea why, when I installed the patches I made sure they were exactly the same size as the rusty parts I cut off. Might have to cut off, open them up or something else creative as they are well welded to the inner pillar framework .
More work on the cowl assy Found out I had to open it up near 8 mm After some dodgy welding I now have this I'm using a gasless mig, it's messy, weld is always too hot and distorts metal. At a later date I might order two more patches and do it again if it annoys me enough.
Wanted a break from the cowl so welded up all the holes in the top of my tank Keeped blowing through the thin metal but came up ok, it's never going to hold fuel again as the tank bottom will be cut out eventually No filler just etch primer
Last job was weld up a few pits in my wheels, 3 of my wheels are great but the 4th had some big pits and a cut to the rim edge A bit of bending using a spanner and hammer and came up ok. Just need to finish as it's been over 2 weeks since they were media blasted and need to be painted
I like what your doing here, my spare time project (what spare time?) is very similar, I bought a 28 gas tank and bonnet and have built the rest from sheet (initial plans were for a roadster but that could change, could end up as a r/p), It's going slow as I have too many projects on the go at one time and this only gets dragged out when my other projects are stalled. have the cowl complete, doors made and hung, rear quarters half made, frame made......so much to do so little time (and $) will follow along with your build, Cheers - Colly.
Thanks 701 diver, I had about 3 projects on the go but all sold off, put all my time into this build. Trying to save as much original steel where I can. I guess I have the remains of 10 + cars in this build. Mostly made up from everyone's cast offs. Only the cowl sides and bottom of the door posts are repro parts. Having more fun with this build than anything ever in the past.
Have quite a few new parts arriving, will update shortly. Waiting on the wood body blocks, had a go at making them but just too hard. Both cowl door posts finished finally. These were the first patch panels I have ever fitted a year ago now, the bottom of both posts was completely missing so have revisited the patch panels a few times to get them looking right,,, well that's my excuse anyway The last year with all the welding I'm doing saving old metal I'm becoming more confident and can do things I would never attempted years ago with my angle grinder and gasless mig. Here are a few misc photos of the cowl and the rebuilt 94s on the intake
Everything is looking good Ritchie. The body and frame and engine really looks good. Doing nice work. Cant wait to see you get more done.Bob.......Are you keeping it fenderless?
Hi Gasserbob, yes will be cycle guards, we are forced to run fenders in this country. I do have RPU rear fenders/guards so still might try and find 30/31 style front full fenders one day.
Picked up another A chassis, this one missing the front crossmember and was in the process of being hot rodded. Rear had a Customline diff setup with a triangulated 4 link. Did not take the diff but will be able to use the upper links and some brackets. Very clean and no pitting other than near the cowl body mount. Will now sell my other chassis. Have to redrill the spare front crossmember. Have had 3 A chassis's and 4 crossmembers, not one crossmember will bolt into the other chassis's. Henry's boys never used templates for drilling holes,,that's for sure.
That's the first time I heard anybody say about the holes not being the same! I knew about the 28-29 and the 30 -31 crossmembers. The height difference where the radiator mounts. I didn't know about the holes being different. Bob .......
Hey Rich good find you probably know but with twin 94 Holleys on a banger you need 4.5 hg power valves to start with not the 7 or 7.5 hg valves normally found in them and main jets start with 50 or 51s they would normally have these depending on which engine they came off
Hi Colin, yes set it up with 50 jets, I have a few sets of 50s, 51s and even other jets into the 70s (have about 30 jet sets from playing with later Holleys) and even bigger I might try if I ever use E85 fuel. I fitted the standard 7 hg power valves to use for a test run but will swap to a 4.5 later.
Fitted a the replacement crossmember after some welding and redrilling Will try and see where the engine and gearbox will fit into the chassis in the next few days
Engine and auto into my A chassis time I am uncertain if I need to cut the front edge of the middle crossmember. Have looked at another on the net and the centre was unmodified? I don't know if the early A crossmember lifts the front of the engine higher? Love to hear comments
The early crossmember shouldn't change the height ,,the crank handle hole will determine the front position ,,you may have to trim the centre a bit to lift the rear of trans up a bit ,,the auto conversion is very neat ,be interesting to see how it goes ,
OK. I hope you are not going to bolt in the front crossmember. No matter how tight, bolts move. Rivets are very different because they expand inside the join, not just clamping. You may well already be on top of this, but I thought I'd throw it in. Or weld it.
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