The diff I planed to use turned out to be a later Salisbury type cut down to Model A length and brackets,,,back to plan A,,,, Im picking up a late 60s F100 complete diff locally for its centre to use in my Mustang, it's housing flange to flange is 61" so a bit wide but will do under a RPU. For me it has to be a original banjo or a 9" hanging under the rear, a 9" under a early banger A is massive overkill but they do look good Like to use a 8" but in Australia they are not common and worth as much as a 9" Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Might be now selling my 16" x 4 1/2 Ford Mainline rims, just been blasted too,,, Might be back to using early F100 rims and keeping 5 on 5 1/2 Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Bummer on the rear end issues. Overall your doing a nice setup with what you have. I'll be following this with interest. Earl
Hi Earl I guess I don't see it that way, I let the parts I find dictate the build. Trying as much as I can to use the parts I find in my travels and not "pay through the nose" for "must have" parts. As long as I see progress it keeps my motivation going. A 9" diff with a neat add on oil filler on the pumpkin looks good in my eyes hanging under a A Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Looking great Rich, glad to see some progress! Sent via carrier pidgeon & smoke signals with the HAMB App
I really like budget builds and like your approach, its how it was for most back in the day. as for progress, any is good. JW
Lookin good mate! I started off pretty similar to you myself.. I started off with a good cowl, and a surface rusty chassis.. And after like 5 years.. Just keep at it and it'll be awesome one day!
Thanks for the positive comments, now have the chassis painted, used Aldi metal paint I picked up a few months ago, used 1/2 a tin of silver I had no further use of and mixed in some black paint. Came up a gun metal grey,,, just wanted the freshly blasted chassis covered in paint. No set idea on final colour. The centre x member was removed for some reason so that was bolted in with M8 cap head bolts and the front x member was bolted in with big M10 cap head bolts, the holes for that size was already drilled so to save welding up I just used that size Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Finally got around to picking up my freshly machined engine Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I never stop, I'm a machine LOL Having young kids gives me more incentive to hide in the shed,,, looking forward to some assistance out there but the oldest, my 4 yo girl has no interest at all in helping. Will see if my 10 month old will help in a few years Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
My cam, not a huge lift cam but has long duration, should sound nice Very different cam timing compared to a overhead engine Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
How is my old F1 cab going, want to see channeled hard over a chassis, actually using that Chev chassis you picked up for it? Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Rich interesting cam specs without check my notes looks real close to the German G28T cam which I have used and liked it a lot
Cab still waiting while i collect parts Got a 39 desoto chassis pretty much the same as a ford in shape nice sweep in the back will probably use that
Hi Colin It's right out at .125 over, has the Edge Pistons, Chev piston ring style, crank is .40 main and .30 for the rods, still need to order the rods and matching bearings. All needed now is intake, head, lifters, gasket set, pulley I think? Getting there slowly. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Desoto,,did not know we had them in Australia, thought we had just Dodge, Fargo and Chryslers. Was it a local car or imported recently. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
My 904 Auto adaptor kit I was worried for a bit, the converter spigot was too small for the crank adaptor. I found there are 2 different size spigots on Mopars, the transmission I worked out was from a 1966, the first year after the Push Button auto was fazed out. Fortunately there are adaptor rings available to simply fix this issue. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Looks great, Egge machining? Glad for the progress! Sent via carrier pidgeon & smoke signals with the HAMB App
Yes Egge did all the machining, had the other parts hottanked locally. Going through these hottanked parts fixing them up for refit, sump, oil pump, oil pump drive gear, bolts and more. Need to place one last big order in for the remaining new parts to get it all together, lacking money for a few weeks. Fixed up a big dint in the sump, unfortunately I now have cracked the solder joint where the oil pump dropout is (28 style sump) Will get that fixed by a radiator shop, don't trust my soldering. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Rich do not solder your sump the oil pump pushes pretty hard with vibrations from the engine it will not hold up long braze it or at a min silver solder it 28 sumps as you know are galvanised so you need to clean down to the steel in your prep
Hi Colin, Taken it to the local radiator shop at lunchtime today, he wants to completely remove the dropout due to it being cracked a few inches along. Hopefully he knows what he is doing
interested in at least 1 flat head. based in melborne, would love to hear from you on 0450 133 002 or [email protected]
Sorry all the sidevalve V8 stuff sold or given away. If you can give me a list of parts you require I might be able to find through a few contacts.
The Jalopy Journal
