Looking for a cheap, durable finish for the frame of the shop truck. Reviews? http://www.kbs-coatings.com/frame-coater-kit.html
I use it, its a good product. Have done frames, floorboards, also painted parts of my hauler with it and have no complaints. To me it the same as POR15 only cheaper, and they have a better color selection. AA++ in my book, it all comes down to prepping the area, i personally think its a cheaper alternative to POR.
Thats what I have done, you don't necesarily have to have rust on metal for this stuff to work. BUT this product is made to work for that for those that can't have stuff blasted and you do have light rust. When you blast the metal it will have enough of a texture for the paint to stick, this stuff does not like super smooth/shiny surfaces.
I was wondering the same.I had an old post i saved that talked about the mastercraft coatings that looked just as good with a lower price.
Haven't used it myself but when Jim Rizzo was at Street Rodder he swore by it. His wife Candi used it when she built her T!
I have not sprayed it yet, I know it can be, but would like to know some more details also, from what i have read, mixing it with a thinner sometimes has a negative effect on it? we'll see if anyone responds.
Is this stuff UV safe? I have heard that POR turns sort of a green color when the sun gets to it. I would rather not have a green frame if possible.
no, the sun will fade it to a grey in no time flat. use the "black top" over it to keep the black. my truck sat out side with no hood or motor and it faded in a month up around the engine compartment. now i have to scuff it , ecth prime and then spray it with the black top so it looks nice and black again. other than my lack of research it an awsome product.
I ordered a quart of the gloss black and a pint of the clear. Gonna give the old vintage travel trailer tongue a try. I'll blast it first then coat it. I'll post my results.
I used their kit for the fuel tank, and the exhaust manifold paint. Satisfied with both, and cheaper than POR15. Steve
if you spray it,it comes out better...but i refuse to spray it anymore.even with a good mask,it made me sicker than a dog...got in my lungs,went straight to bronchitis.took two weeks to feel normal again.i now brush it on and have no trouble with the fumes
Sprayed the fuel tank on my car just two weeks ago. I don't think I'd buy the full kit again, their 'aqua Klean' and 'rust blast' didn't do all that much so I just ended up going over it with some crystal phosphoric acid as per my usual routine. The paint sprays nicely, I brushed it on a few brackets and it didn't come out as nicely.
They say it actually bonds better without removing all the rust, if the rust won't come off, it won't come off.
I wire wheeled (4.5" grinder with a twisted wire from Lowes) my Plymouth frame, brushed on a few coats and was pretty happy with the end result. They aren't kidding when they say the only thing that will take it off is time. Make sure you are protected!
I use KBS coatings all the time. As people have pointed out, they're cheaper than POR, and I think they're a little better too. Stuff lays on great and comes out smooth.
I have some direct results and I'll give you my take. I like the black. The clear is crap though. I read all of the directions, followed them to a T. I applied the clear coat and left, when I came back it looked like the parts were rabid. The clear had a million air bubbles in it and looked like it was foaming. I should have just bought the blacktop top coat and been done with it. If I would have stopped with the black only, I would have been ok. But, it would have faded over time. Now I get to DA all of the parts again. Ugh.
Here are my results if anyone is still interested 4 months later! I thinned down the gloss black KBS rust seal and sprayed it over bare metal. Take it easy when spraying, it will run VERY easily. I waited 15 minutes or so between coats and ended up spraying 4 or 5 light coats over an hour and a bit. Sorry about the ordinary photos they were taken on my phone. The car is an OT 1967 Holden for interests sake.
I need to chime in here. Anyone planning on buying KBS Silver, DO NOT waste your MONEY. First off you can NOT brush it without streaks. Secondly you can not spray it because it takes up to 4 hours to dry between coats and if the first coat isnt completely dry you will get small gassing bubbles and it looks HORRIBLE. Thirdly, the Silver become unusable after its expose to the atmosphere so if you dont use the entire can the first time you open it, it will ALWAYS blotch on you. Your best paint for the money for a silver look is Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy Stainless Steel in a spray can. For under $5.00 you will get a better finish and it will stand up to gas and be rust proof. I restore cars. Seems like KBS wants to keep my opinions OUT of their forum. They deleted my honest post and sent me a nasty gram telling me they didnt want my SPAM on their Forum... REALLY KBS???? Honest opinions are SPAM??? Their Silver out and out sucks. The black is good but again, if you brush it on too thick, it will gas on you causing small pin holes and bubbles. IT TAKES up to 8 hours to completely dry. Good luck with that. BEWARE!!!
I'm with Philtut here.... KBS rust blast in black, whether sprayed, brushed or rolled, I could not stop the runs and bubbles, it looked like crap....back to the sandblasted we go..... KBS Diamond clear.....another overrated product that does'nt spray well and bubbles....thankfully I tried this on a test piece beforehand... KBS silver.....I have a brand new can sitting in my shed which I will use for a doorstop... Fuck KBS coatings, spend you're hard earned $$$ on good quality 2K or get you're chassis parts powder coated and save yourself a huge headfuck !
I have used KBS with great success but you MUST follow their procedure step by step and use their 3 step system. As soon as it is dry to the touch, you can spray any quality urethane over the top of it. It sprays much nicer than it brushes.
I used the KBS black on my frame. I brushed it on, the places that came out good looked real good. The places I had runs looked real bad. If you could get the a frame to be all run and bubble free it would be a killer frame. I had to use 36grit to grind off the runs.