I'm wondering if the pitting on the mating surface can be repaired. It makes me nervous to install as is. This is the water jacket area. Any input is appreciated .
How much meat is left behind her? Poke at it with a pick. If it goes through, find a replacement. If it does not got through, run it. You have a 100% sealing area, it is small, but 100%
I've seen, (and ran) worse............If ya' cant poke a hole through it, glass bead it, (preferable), or sand blast the area, and use some good epoxy on it...............Smooth with a putty knife, let it cure, and block it flat, so you have a smooth , flat sealing surface, and let it ride.
Yup, same stuff....................other folks make it too, 3M makes some fine product, but the brand name escapes me at the moment.....
Concure with using the epoxy for the easy fix. If you have the time and know how tig it for a more professional finish. But no one will see it, so it is a matter with what you are more comfortable with.
Ive done the epoxy thing..it works but good prep is the key to it lasting..get all the shit out of there, and etch the aluminum or rough it up so the epoxy has some tooth to bite into. nothing worse than having your repair show up in your radiator, or water pump. sometimes if its not too bad or deep..a good layer of RTV will seal it..again if it is cleaned well of all the aluminum corrosion media blasting the area would be my choice for the clean up
There is a product for the repair ,its made for metal repair and they have one for aluminum to,I think its called Def-con,but not sure,used some on a turbo manifold an a diesel engine and it worked good. Not positive about the name been a long time ago.
That too, just keep in mind, that MOST, R T V's are corrosive, that is, if they have that vinegar smell.......................It is Acetic acid, and it works well, ( sarcasm), with aluminum!!! As long as there is no vinegar smell, all is good on some minor damage.....
oh you know thats a dam good point..glad you brought that up..because i have seen that shit fuck up nice aluminum over the years.. if using aluminum covers..i should have said use a non hardening non Acetic gasket adhesive.. my bad for not bringing that up..thanks for the wake up call SC
I bought some low temp aluminum welding rods at a swap meet . You need to get everything real clean, but they melt with a propane torch and flow like lead. carlg
I was going to say JB Weld. I think its the same thing as epoxy. You best and cheapest way to repair it. Why look for a 20 dollar cure for a 10 cent problem.
Keep us posted on the JB weld fix. I used it a few times in the distant past and it has never failed me.
If that doesn't work I've got a bunch of Alumi-weld lying around. All you need is a torch to melt it in, then clean up with a file. I can cut a stick in half and mail it for free. Hell, I'll even break the piggy bank for the stamp
JB Weld has an aluminum weld product. I have restored very old Hit and Miss engines, Windmills, outboard motors, transmissions and about every other thing you can imagine with various JB Weld products and I have had very good luck with them. Read and follow the directions. I talked to a heavy equipment mechanic who said that he has saved many thousand dollars repairing castings on heavy equipment with JB Weld. Naturally he was talking about engine and transmission parts not weight bearing parts. I know that this advice dosn't apply to this manifold problem but it has saved me several times when a casting has broken. I some times Butt weld broken castings back together then drill and tap thru the weld and JB Weld hard steel bolts in the holes. I then cut off the heads of the bolts even with the surface. When doing this I grind the side of the threads so that the excess JB Weld that I put on the threads and in the tapped hole can ouze out. After grinding the threads and before running the bolts in run a hardened nut over the threads to clean them up and test them in the holes without the JB. Dick
You think it would work for a mounting hole flange that broke off ?? I have an old Fenton intake and one of the mounting holes busted off. I would need to build upabout an inch or so before filing it down and drilling it.
I've never put a ton of torque on it, but I've seen a couple people do that very same thing to a bell housing. I would say, if strength is going to be an issue, I would have a piece of 1/2" aluminum plate tig welded on and ground to fit, then drill it out. Maybe someone can chime in on the strength issue, but if you want to try it, I can send a stick. I've only got about 40 sticks, collecting dust.
Thanks for the offer Never2low, I'll keep it in mind. I'm hoping that I won't have to remove the intake for a while. The intake is off a tuned port engine. This being the first time that I've taken apart a fuel injected engine, it was somewhat painful! Once I figured it all out, I gotta say its pretty simple. It has fewer parts that a carb engine. Too bad it's not as cool!
Epoxies are a modern marvel for sure, prep is everything with them, cant stick to dirty greasy surfaces. We have repaired many items and never had a failure due to the epoxy. I have even seen the adventuresome folks drill and tap it with amazing sucess.
That's a job for your local tig welder. A good TIG welder can build up the aluminum so that it can be ground back down and shaped to what has broken off. Epoxy won't hold up ant it won't match the intake. This had 3 fins with missing pieces. I had it welded for 20 bucks. I did my own grinding, filing and polishing.
Bead blast it really clean and fill it with MarineTex,let it cure and file it smooth.I've got one on an off topic car for about 5 years now that was at least that bad.This stuff sets as hard as a preacher's dick.