Here is an altered I bought a few months back. Shortened up to 108 w.b. Just picked up the motor from the machine shop. Stroked 348/380 inch 6-71. Still have chassis work to do, and fab front mount and such. Hope to have it together this summer.
When and where are the Meltdown Drags? I will be in Bowling Green for the Hot Rod Reunion with my 62 409 Impala, but not sure I could make 2 events this summer. But you never know.......... I usually hang at the 348-409 site, but have been lurking here a bit more for some inspiration on this altered. Lots of good stuff here. Just trying to get the 60's look.
The Meltdown Drags are in Byron Ill July 15 17 Have you gone through the Drag cars in motion picture thread lots of old pictures to look at. I will be in Bowling Green also with Toms 62 and 61 if I can get it done in time.
Love your car. Altereds RULE! Google Auful Auful Altereds for insperation, lots of pics to see on theway they were back in the day.
Rear tire size will be 33 13.50 15 is that about the right size? I have 33x17 but those seem way too wide.
A common size around me was 14 x 32 x 15 or 14 x 32Ws. I think I would also be inclined to paint the rear wheels half white / half black, as was often the practice back then
Thanks fellas, I hope to fire the engine next weekend. Still rounding up some small things. This motor will go on the dyno for some tuning and such shortly. Just want to make sure I don't burn this b!tch down on the first run. Then to get back on the chassis. I am really enjoying this build. These altereds sure have a nasty look about them don't they.
Very cool little handful of a car, that blown W block is cool. What do you think the numbers will be on it ?
I have no idea what number the car will run. With a 750 horse 565 bbc it had gone 8.60/168 and the car is under 1800 pounds. The blown 380 is a mild street build, should run 500-650 horse depending on boost levels. I was told 10 flat is the cutoff, after that the safety stuff really starts to add up, and the chassis would need to be certified. All this stuff is new to me and am learning as we go. I sometimes look at the car and think "damn, I gotta drive that thing HOW fast!!". My wife has told me she is getting a bit nervous about the whole thing. Too late to back out now.
You might be suprised with how quick it'll run. My first one ended up running 9.56 with a very mild 427, not blown. Just put a bolt under the throttle and start off very easy till you get the hang of it. Lots of test and tune. I`m lucky, on the left side we have a test and tune session going on every weekend year round Good luck and have tons of fun. Make your wife the crew chief, you`ll need a tow to the line, a bug , and someone to bring you into the lights. That will make it more fun for her, worked for me
Wife won't want to come with me, but my boy, and a buddy will. I am planning to drive to the line for simplicity. The car will have starter and cooling system. Plan is to drive back to the pits as well. What requirements did you have running in the 9's? I started reading all the rules and it gave me a headache! This car was run in 2012, so I hope other than belts it will be good to go. This car was also powered by a flathead ford at one time. We are not planning to be competitive as we are 4 plus hours away from the nearest track and won't be able to race every weekend. But when we go, we want to be safe, have fun, and put on a good show.
I noticed it has helmet bars so it`s not that far out of date. Other than the belts, you`ll need trans /flexplate shields, certed harmonics balancer ( which they never check) catch can for coolant, double return springs on the throttle and a clip on the throttle that goes over your toes so you can back off if it sticks. One thing to think about is if the trans is in the cockpit( not covered) , you`ll have to wear a 15 suit minimum VERY PRICEY. If you build a floorboard with a trans cover you only have to have a 5 suit,cheaper. 800 bucks verses 200 A certed chassis lasts 2 years for sportsman 7.50 and slower NHRA rules. One other thing is a 15/20 suit lasts 5 years and can be sent to the mfg for recert and a 5 suit is forever. I guess I`m a tight ass. I ran 7.0 pro class and got really tired of recerting blower/ diaper restraints and chassis certs every year( a pro chassis is every year)
More unsolicited advise. Blower restraints, yes- battery cutoff,yes- engine diaper . the more you impress the tech inspector, the better, not required. One thing,don`t know anything about your motor but the small block blown motors have to have a crank snout support or the blower will snap the crank snout right off and into the belt cage at the top pulley and into your face
Chassis was not certified before. This 348 has a sbc size crank snout. I am running a crank hub,no balancer. I asked Don Hampton about the crank snout size and he told me if I use a crank hub, double keyed, I should be ok. A lot less weight on the end of the crank, and closer to the engine for less leverage. I had Don build the intake, and got the drive from him as well. Only planning on 6-8 psi for boost. Less than 6000 rpm, shooting for 5500. Not setting any records with this one, just having fun. Flex plate is SFI approved, glide will have shields, car has a floor. Has a chute. Did not know it had to have a blower restraint. It is running twin carbs on gas. Has battery shutoff. No belt cage. Will have to check throttle pedal, I believe it has a clip. Your advice is VERY much appreciated.
The diaper is usually the track call if you are running non NHRA Being that you are doing some chassis work you my want to check into having it certified you know after some seat time you will want to go faster.
Right now I am trying to get all the mandatory stuff covered for a 10 flat run. Once I feel confident at that et, I will either turn up the wick on this build a bit, or sell it for one built for more speed. Call this first one a learning experience. 11.70's in my 62 impala are cool, but I need a bit more than that.
The chassis cert may just be some tube fitting and welding it wont have anything to do with the safety stuff. And it will be safer at any speed.
A couple of things and I`ll leave you alone. When your bug backs you up, have him stop you at least 20 feet behind the line so when you come into the lights you naturally come in square with the track. No steering on the hit. Be ready for the dreaded bounce at the top end. Once in awhile she`ll start bouncing in the shutdown. do not grab the brake ,just pull the chute. When it bounces in the air the wheels will stop and then you really will put pinch marks in your underwear. Good luck and have fun
I welcome your advice. Even if I only get a few laps in this year, that would be fine. Enough to get my feet wet and see what I would like to change. I want this to be fun and an experience we will not soon forget. Can't wait!
Please keep us posted on your progress. Have a low 11 car and thinking time for a slow FED ( front engine dragster ) & then start adding power ( until pants turn brown ). Would love to know/follow your pitfalls & progress.
Sounds like you are in the same boat as me. I just hope the pitfalls aren't too deep. I just static timed the motor at 30 degrees, routed more plug wires, and other small things today. Trying not to get in a rush and forget things is my main concern.
Good luck, all good advice so far, just creep up on the speed, we ran 11.23 our first pass on a new car, we run 9.60 regularly now at 135 , don't need a chute, and having tons of fun
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