Technical After market Turn signal switch

I am installing an after market turn signal switch. I have the schematic from the manufacture. The schematic shows 2 of the seven wires going to the flasher but it also shows a hot wire going to the flasher. In my mind there then should be 3 spades on the flasher yet everyone I have seen is only two spades/wires. Can someone tell me how to wire this into the flasher please?
Thank you

 

I can't see your diagram since it won't enlarge

If the switch is anything like the one I bought from Limeworks, it requires a 3 blade turn signal flasher which I also purchased from Limeworks.

Bottom line is that you need a 3 blade flasher (If you have a flashing tip on the turn signal switch and want it to work).

The description from Limeworks website:







Turn Signal 1-1/2" Diameter
$ 140.00
A stylish turn signal switch to fit your rod, custom or stocker. Fits 1-1/2" column diameters. All turn signals come with two splits to easy bolt on to your column and in machined billet aluminum. Flashing tip means no need to drill the dash for turn signal lights - just bolt it on, wire it up and go.

Our switch requires the use of a 3 prong flasher can (not included). We recommend and stock the electronic style, reliability for only $12.00. These can be purchased in our store.

If you're using a commercial wiring panel or kit, you can remove the 2 prong flasher & bridge the connection where it plugged in. Now use the wire marked 'turn signal feed' or similar to power up a separately mounted 3 prong flasher. This way your turn signals are still on the correct circuit & fuse (a short length of 16 gauge wire with a male spade at each end is the ideal bridge.)

The yellow wire (number 7) illuminates the tip and connects to the third prong on the flasher can. If you're installing one of these switches in a car that already has dash indicator lights, it can be wired without a 3 prong flasher, as you don't need the flashing tip.

 

I can't make out the schematic you posted but 2 prong flashers have one hot coming in (ign) and the other one goes to the switch. 3 prong flashers the third wire is for an indicator light such as one in the handle.
A second input to the switch itself is from the brake light switch.

 

I went to Auto zone and they said they do not sell a 3 prong flasher, then I went to the bone yard and went through a bunch of trucks and cars and all flashers were 2 prong. I will check with the local NAPA.
Thank you

 

get em at Napa all the time for these types of switches

 

NAPA wants to know am I looking for a thermal or electronic 3 prong flasher?

 

Electronic will flash regardless of load whether 1157 or led but $$, Thermal depends on load so you need enough load like usual four 1157 bulbs and is less$..

 

If you took the time to read my response you would have seen that Limeworks specifies an electronic flasher.
That is what you need for your system which will be pretty much identical to theirs.

 

Now I know why NASA spent a million dollars to create a ball-point pen that would write upside down, instead of using a pencil, like the Russians. Instead of giving advice on how to solve the problem one poster tries to sell another product, and throws a hissy-fit because he thinks his advice is not being read correctly; and all the while, no one seems to have understood the original poster's issue. Here's my take: YES, the schematic is illegible. BUT, with a little logic we can assume the three wires to the flasher are thus: 1. & 2. are left and right. 3 is from one side of the two post flasher and the other post on the flasher goes to a fused positive battery. The switch merely acts as a means of shunting power to the left or right turn lights: being left rear and left front, and right rear and right front. The power thus goes from battery thru one post of the flasher and to the wire that is attached to the lever that goes to lr+lf or rr+rf. The filament is part of the circuit and the power goes through it to ground. Otherwise you need more to do more. I can be wrong but such a circuit will work. Try it with the breaker and alligator clips run power to one side of the flasher and out to the filament of a bulb and ground the bulb. It should flash. The rest is just more the same. You only need a two post flasher. Buy the old style if you have filament bulbs, and the electronic if you use LEDs. (One caveat - I cannot be certain the electronic flasher will work if it uses this circuit, unless you also use a filament bulb to achieve a ground. This was the stop-gap method used before electronic flashers were widely available.)

 

If you need a socket for the flaser, just get an old style headlight socket.

 

There is an X, P and L marked on the 3 pronged flasher. Which is the Hot line coming in, the indicator light and the switch power?
Thank you

 

X=power (hot)
L=Load (to switch)
P=Pilot (the 3rd wire we're discussing)

 

Thanks for the replies. Hotrodmyk, I hooked it up that way and the indicator light will not work. If I move the wires around on the flasher, I can get the indicator light to turn on but the flasher does not flash. Is it possible I purchased a bad flasher? Is the indicator light suppose to flash along with the turn signal or does that stay solid? In, addition to this problem I need to figure out why only 1 of the 4 Turn signals are only working. This condition is not new as this is how it worked with the broken switch that was in the column. One of the previous owners really screwed with the wiring especially going to the rear.

 

Blue one, I am sorry I did not pick up on your post stating to use an electronic flasher. I did read your whole post and appreciate any help I can get.

 

The flasher has to be "clicking" for the pilot terminal to have output. Probably should check each of the other non-functioning light circuits individually and make sure they are working before sorting out the switch.

 

Napa.

 

I will concentrate on getting all 4 corners working and hopefully the switch/flasher will take care of it self.

 

the flasher won't flash if the bulbs are not working, it needs the load to "trip" the flasher.

 

Correct, the flasher has to be under a load and working. Also make sure that the pilot bulb is good and the switch itself has a good ground.

 

My aren't we the holy one Meanwhile you have no idea what you are talking about.
At no time did I suggest that he should buy a switch from Limeworks.
I merely posted what I did because they (Limeworks ) sell a similar aftermarket signal switch and the info from their website might have lead the OP to a solution to his problem.

So as you can see ( or maybe not since you totally misunderstood what I posted ) I was trying to help in some fashion.
I did not throw a "hissy-fit" as you put it, ( I have no idea where some of you guys come up with this crap. Possibly if I had scribbled it in pencil you might have gotten it but even that is doubtful ).

I merely pointed out the possible reason for needing a 3 prong electronic flasher as they do in the aftermarket system I purchased (ME, not the OP !) and that he had missed what I posted. (which he acknowledged)

When someone posts something it is always nice if it can be read and understood.

 

So.....what are you trying to say?

 

I know the brighter filament of a two filament bulb is the brake filament but which one is the turn signal filament?

 

the brighter filament is both the brake and the turn, the "dimmer" one is for tail/parking.
the turn signal switch shuts off the brake power going to that filament when you activate the turn to that bulb.

 

That's why there is an input from the brake light switch to the turn signal switch. Do not hook up anything else to the brake lights, the turn signal switch does it all.

 

Ok, now I am really confused. I am not the one who wired this truck so I am unsure what really went on. when I feed the left rear tail light turn signal with power from the turn signal switch, both the left and right turn signals flash. At the left turn signal bulb itself, there are three wires going to the two wires from the bulb. One wire feeds the less bright filament for the parking/ headlights. The other wire from the bulb (the brighter filament) is fed with two wires, one for the brake lights and one for the turn signal. Then I think the brake light wire from the left bulb is is then fed over to the right turn signal bulb. I am guessing this is what is causing both bulbs to flash at the same time. How should I wire this so both bulbs aren't flashing at the same time?
Thank you

 

If I step on the brakes when both lights are flashing, the lights stop flashing.

 

Attached are a couple of basic wiring diagrams, see if they help any.

 

OKAY, the 2 (L & R) brake light bulbs are wired together. You have to separate L & R. It appears to have been set up without turn signals before.When they are separated you should be OK. Check out diagram above. Only 2 wires should be going to the lamp. One for the tail and the other for the brake/turn.(brighter one).

 

Two kinds of turn signal wiring, one that has independent turn signals (not combined with stop lights) and combined with stop lights. You have the combined version. Two or three pin flashers will work. You use the middle pin only for a common dash indicator. If you have two indicators, they can simply be wired to the front turn signal wiring.

That's how simple it is.

 

I think the problem is solved. I did not have the brake light switch wired in correctly. I still had the wire going from the brake light switch down to the lights and not to the turn signal switch. I also needed to cut the third wire that was going to the bulbs. As someone mentioned they must not have had turn signals in the past and had it wired for that. I still have a very dim front left turn signal which I am guessing is a GROUND problem. As always, I appreciate everyone's help.
Thank you