Technical Adjusting fuel pressure regulator

do you guys know of a way to adjust a holley fuel pressure regulator without it being on the car?

My 3x2 setup needs 1 1/2 lbs and every time I try to adjust on the car it either is way too high and the carbs shoot fuel out or it's way too low and dies. I through on a crappy dial style regulator to get me by but even it is just a bit too much pressure and it's adjusted all the way down so I'd like to go back to the holley regulator.currently at 2 lbs and it's just a bit too high

 

Is it a bi-pass regulator, needing a return line?
Maybe that is why it doesn't work correctly.
Is it the correct one? - Two types available.
From previous threads on here, it seems that about 50% of those that use the holley type regulator have problems and the other 50% have no problems.
I gave up with mine and bought a more expensive one.

 

No. Doesn't need a return supposedly

 

Do you have the low pressure one? (1-4 psi)

You may be trying to adjust the higher one down. (4.5-9 psi)


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

I've got a 1-4lb. regulator I put on my 3x2 system and adjusted it on the car running, with a pressure gauge t'eed in the line.

 

figure out the area of the diaphragm, in square inches. convert your psi number to square inches using maths and that square inches number, then you will know how much force the spring must exert. Press the spring on a scale, measure the deflection at that force. Use this measurement to set the height of the spring when it's installed in the regulator.



Or....connect the regulator to an electric pump, and connect the output of the regulator to a restrictor (such as a plug with a small hole in it). Adjust the regulator as the fuel runs out into a can.

 

Squirrel,,,,you forgot to add LOL........LOL
Always adjust the pressure on the vehicle running with a known good gauge. Recheck after the engine has gotten to operating temp.

 

Unless it's a liquid filled gauge, then it's all out the window.

 

Ozzie-yes it's a low rated one..

Squirrel-math was never my strong subject!

Rick- 'lol'? As I listed when I try to adjust it on the car it's way too much pressure and shoots fuel out onto the cowl,or it shuts off completely l... I'll get it figured out anyway

Landseaandair-yes it's liquid,like most other fuel gauges

 

You mean as in filled with fluid in the dial itself. They are generally not vented and the glycerine? Expands with heat pushing against the bellows making the gauge read lower than it actually is.

 

Why you want to set pressure so low, every carb I've seen works best at about 3psi (except for some really old gravity flow M2 Strombergs etc) but all carbs that we would use will take 3psi. One & a half psi really too low to adjust to, the spring in the regulator needs pressure exerting against it.
I presume you have either holley 94 or Stromberg 97? then bump pressure up to 3psi and if the needle & seat don't seal then there is a different problem, a piece of trash or something else that needs fixing it isn't the amount of pressure.

 

Recommended by Areospace products. Adjust it as low as it will go. Start engine, slowly raise to the pressure you want. Never turn down, if you go to high, start over. Good luck.

 

Landseaandair-as in yes a fluid filled gauge to prevent needle bounce

Oj- ...it's pretty common knowledge that 94's run on 2 or under. There's no trash or bad parts in carbs that have just been redone by a professional.

Jimmy-as I had mentioned problem is the regulator can be turned off. There's no 'low setting' the screw can turn until it stops pressure completely. So I can't really start with it low. Just seems to be off completely. I'll take a guess with it and see what happens

 

www.stromberg-97.com/tech_center/pdfs/Stromberg-carb-Inst-Guide.pdf
Connect the Fuel Line. 08 ... Always perform any work on the fuel system .... manner to a recommended15 ft./lbs. .... for fuel pressure between 2.5 psi and 3.0 psi.

 

Do you have the low pressure version of the Holley regulator?

If you really can't get it to work right, maybe you could get another regulator...or if you're in for some fun, maybe you could see about finding a softer spring to put inside the regulator.

 

Stromberg engineered the EE-1 Ford carb (a.k.a. 97) to run at a continuous pressure of 3 psi.

More difficult to specify with the AA-1 Holley (a.k.a. 94) as there were several different versions and settings. Depending on exactly which 94, factory specifications were from 3 to 4 1/2 psi. This would depend on application and fuel valve orifice size.

Both of the above with ORIGINAL FUEL VALVE ORIFICE SIZES!

A problem can arises when an enthusiast puts in a fuel valve seat with larger than original orifice, either by accident by acquiring a cheap rebuilding kit where one size fits nothing; or by choice to increase the W.O.T. RPM. At this point in time, the enthusiast becomes the engineer, and is responsible for the results.

Jon.

 

Geek!

Between the Edsel and this kind of stuff you really enjoy pushing the envelope, don't you.

 

FWIW, my supposed to be "low pressure" Holley req had similar issue. After trying to adjust with no good results, I decided to try a rebuild kit which comes with both a higher and lower pressure spring. Turns out the low pressure req had a higher pressure spring in it all along. Changed springs, problem solved. They are a different color, but I forgot what color is the lower pressure spring.

 

I'll say again squirrel.. I have the low pressure one. Your spring idea is probably what I will try. And 270ci mentioned as well

My carbs was built by dickster. If anyone wants to look him up,you'll know he's the king of these carbs,and has been doing them longer than most have been alive. He says I need under 2 pounds. So I need under 2 pounds. And oj,so? Obviously it's not working at 2,so you arguing that I need more just makes no sense.also you keep saying I have 97's. I do not. This thread is a mess.

Carbking-are you talking about what screws under the carb? The outer carbs don't even have those! Hard for it to be a problem if the part isn't there


The weaker spring idea is about the only thing on here that is worth trying. I'll just post back when I try the spring thing. I wasn't asking about my carbs. Just had a regulator question..not trying to peepee on anyone

 

Yeah, I like to get folks to have to use their noggins a little bit. Not nearly enough of that going on these days.

 

Quote "Carbking-are you talking about what screws under the carb? The outer carbs don't even have those! Hard for it to be a problem if the part isn't there" End quote

No, I was referring to fuel pressure; and was referring to the original manufacturers specifications. Fuel pressure requirements are determined by (1) the buoyancy of the float, (2) the mechanical advantage of the float, and (3) the orifice of the fuel valve seat (the piece that holds the valve that the float closes). If one changes the value of any of above, then the fuel pressure requirements can change.

Different builders may use different specifications, but the four items are always related.

Jon.

 

Carbking,I follow. I'm just going by what dick told me. He's very good at these and I told him before my problem and that it was fuel pressure. He usually chimes in from time to time. I have nothing but good things to say about him and he's helped me out a great deal in the past. I do wish these was 2g's instead but that's not my setup,just trying to work with what I got.

 

I've never had any luck with that type of"deadhead" regulator-the fuel has to go somewhere because you can't compress a liquid.Heres something to try-connect some hose to the bowl vents on the three carbs,run the hoses into a catch can[this is going to an extra hand or two],the over flowing fuel will go into the catch can instead of the engine and may let you keep it running long enough to get an adjustment,I have seen brass floats crushed from too much fuel pressure

 

Wow... I can't believe I didn't think of running some hose to the vents... duh right! Yeah last time the shot fuel all over the car and jacked up my nifty new rattle can paint.

I think it's weird that they would leak out of the throttle shafts (only my 2 secondary carbs) my primary carb does not appear to leak at the shaft.

 

Sorry, I don't know what I read to make me think you had 97's, good thing that as they are harder to seal than the 94. It sounds like your fuel pump is overwhelming the regulator, even tho the regulator is low pressure there are limits to what it can deal with. What pump do you have and do you know what pressure/gph it is?

 

Yeah that may be a possibility. It's just a stock mechanical pump from a c10 I think

 

First I've heard of this. Gauges are not completely filled with glycerin, there is always a "bubble", wouldn't that allow for expansion without affecting the gauge accuracy?

 

http://www.marshallinstruments.com/faqs/detail.cfm?id=26

Been a few years but the last filled gauge I had would read the 5-7 #s I set it at cold and after a short cruise it was at or near 0 with the underhood temps. Fenderwell headers didn't help any.

 

My first liquid-filled fuel psi gauge would eventually drop to 0 after a short time while on a test stand. A check, substituting a common vac/fuel psi gauge, showed no drop in pressure from the Holley 1-4 regulator. A very knowledgeable flathead friend of mine, Rumbleseat, said to simply drain the fluid from the fancy chrome gauge and it would perform correct, and he was 100% correct.
I don't know what advantage liquid-filled fuel psi gauges provide, but my advise is avoid, or drain them.

 

I was told to 'burp' the liquid filled gauges.
But when 'Rumbleseat' makes a comment, I pay attention.