Drumyn29, Did you make a decision about the windows yet? I have the blue tint in my Plymouth, I'll attach a pic so you know what the effect looks like. I'm happy with it. Hi Mark, Thanks for replying. I've actually found a couple of things since then, but I'm not sure it would be the cause. I pulled the pan and rear main cap, and when I did... A) I got some sludge out of the pan that I didn't see when I drained the original oil out. Not a lot, but possibly enough to limit the amount of oil going into the pickup. It wasn't chocolate milk shake(y) like a gasket had failed and gotten coolant in the oil, just dark brownish to black sludge. The pump pickup wasn't particularly clogged up, so maybe this sludge was just from the car mostly sitting the last decade and didn't come out because the initial oil change was done cold. B). The stock filter bypass valve fell out in three pieces (Well, I guess two really, the cage and the check ball. The other piece was the anti-drain back valve, I assume since not all engines had them, they must be separate pieces.) Anyway, there wasn't a spring in it, and I also assume it has to have one. Except for the test oil change to make sure it wasn't a filter problem and look at the condition of the oil, It's always had Valvoline 50wt racing oil in it. I used 20w50 for the test because the local auto parts stores either don't carry 50wt or the one that did only had 5 qts, and it holds 8. I don't want to take up too much of your thread with my problem, but I did want to ask one more question. Is it possible that since the bypass was so loose in the passage, that it could be turning and partially restricting oil flow to the rest of the engine? I ordered one of those billet aluminum replacements since I run a later spin on remote filter, but I'm not so sure that's going to fix it either. I'm going to pull and check the rest of the main and rod caps (the rear main looked fine), and check them with plasti-gauge before I put it back together. I'm also going to put one of those large flat drip pans under it for a few more days with a pressure checker on the radiator and see if I see ant sign of leakage. If it passes those two tests, I'll put it back together and try again. It has a 392 oil pump in it that I believe is one of the rebuilt Melling pumps, but I'm not sure how to tell? Anyway, I'm going to try this and if I still haven't figured it out, I'll give you a call (if that's OK)and maybe bring it up on a trailer and let you have a look at it before I tear it down? For some reason, I was thinking you were in the Midwest, not three hours up the road. Thanks, Kurt . Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
If you ever need help transporting I know a few VERY affordable guys!! I transport stuff all the time.
I found a few black leather freebie couches on craigslist for my interior. I striped them already and tossed the carcasses int he alley, I'll get some pics later. Anyone need any blue leather?
Thanks, but I have that end covered. I do a little transporting for friends down here as well. I just got my my threads mixed up and thought you guys were half way across the country from here. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I am positive that in one of my metallurgy courses that I learned that "a hole in a piece of metal expands at the same rate as the surrounding metal." I am not saying Ron may have had another reason for wanting extra clearance but I can say with certainty as a rod heats the bore will expand, not grow inward, hence, the bearing clearance will increase as the rod heats up, especially since the coefficient of aluminum (rod) is greater than the coefficient of expansion of iron (crankshaft). http://physics.stackexchange.com/qu...disk-expand-or-shrink-when-the-disc-is-heated http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/thermo/thexp2.html https://www.physicsforums.com/threads/expansion-of-a-hole.692245/ https://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20070808005333AArZaEB
Bench racing is great but the true test will be at the track. I'll probably Dyno it sooner than later, I'll post what the outcome is, hopefully I won't be holding a broom and dustpan picking up parts off the floor.
Sounds like you need some new Clevite H series berings. I like 60 wt. Kendall with a quart of Lucas added. This Viscosity didn't work for me with a Melling Oil Pump. I got a new CVR pump from Summit and it works like a charm. .0025 on mains, .0035 on rods. Good oil and great oil pressure are your friends. Like Mark Engle said, fix it now = save money later.
Instead of mowing the yard yesterday, I decided I needed a bumper, my wife is pissed but what else is new! I striped a few black leather freebie craigslist couches for my interior as well.
MAN this car takes a long time to build!!!! I just added a big 2" torsion bar that my sprint car friend gave me. I didn't have the proper length bolts so I just used whatever I had in the bolt bin until I get time to buy some grade 8 bolts. Hopefully this will cure any Body-Roll that this car might have once I get it to the strip. Also added an aluminum brake master and Ansen brake pedal.
Nice !! You so need that. It will keep the windshield clean ...perfect for wheelies. Frekn' A man. Perfect.
Mowing the lawn back on March 11th? Cali*freekin*fornia! WTF!? Engine looks nice, real nice! I need to mow my lawn today, or tomorrow - for the first time this year!
You've captured the look and vibe of those gasser war Willys race cars better than just about anyone. Great job!
The reason Mark looks so upset is because he's never built a high horsepower engine with yard sale parts before. All of his grey hair came from this build. So with the intake on and torqued the over ported manifold has alot of gasket and port showing, which means that there is not much area of gasket sealing area. NOTE: The screw driver is 3/8 wide at the tip, the shiny part is the iron head the black part is the gasket. Not much left to seal with. You can see how much gasket and port is showing, making a reversion edge. He's seen a few funny car blower explosions in his life, so he's extremely cautious, I should learn from that.
The one thing that is bugging me are the rear wheels, they look more 70's rather than 60's. I'll probably use these wheels and tires for racing and I have to get a set of cheater slicks for my small window halibrands for rollers. The fronts are just rollers until it's ready to race, then I'll slap some Firestones on em'
I'd say that size looks like the latter part of the era, around '67-69ish. Still very appropriate for the car, even if it's not the look you're going for.
Hey Jeff, You know on my Super Stock heads and manifolds, I end up with a bunch of epoxy in them to get the shape of the ports right and to keep it in spec for NHRA, By adding some to the floor of the intake you could get some gasket clamping surface out of it at a minimum, and a bit better flow as well. Just a thought.
I need to figure out what class I'm running in and where. Are there any drags in Cali. anymore, or am I headed to Quain Stott's neighborhood?
The Jalopy Journal
