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Hot Rods A 40 Ford Coupe for Uncle Mike Build Thread

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by The 39 guy, Oct 27, 2014.

  1. That thing's going to be like the cone of silence!

    Nice work as usual.
     
  2. The 39 guy
    Joined: Nov 5, 2010
    Posts: 3,523

    The 39 guy
    Member

    Thanks Joel and X38!
    Been busy with a few projects this week.
    Installed the cowl vent:
    IMG_8769R.JPG
    Tapped off the surrounding area to protect the shiny new paint job.
    IMG_8770R.JPG
    The vent had not been cut and buffed yet so I made a little wood jig to hold the darn thing still so I could work on it. No surprises here. It didn't take too long to do. It was hardly worth getting the buffing equipment out. I did get to use my new HF adjustable speed buffer a little and also employed my right angle air grinder at av very low pressure setting with some little 3" foam and wool buffing wheels.
    IMG_8771R.JPG
    Darn vent assembly has a lot of pieces and a lot of adjustments that can be made to get it to seal.
    IMG_8772R.JPG
    That new electric wiper motor kind of crowds the vent but clears it ok.
    IMG_8773R.JPG
    IMG_8792R.JPG
    So there is my AC system ready to inhale some air.
    IMG_8340R.JPG
    I bought a Hildebrant oil filter system from Obrien Truckers a while back. I bought the polished version and was pretty happy with the polish on the body of the filter housing but decided I could improve on the polish of the top piece. After spending way too many hours polishing this lid I decided that I probably should have left it alone. This picture was taken after I had already done a bunch of work on the piece.
    IMG_8794R.JPG
    After way too many hours of hand work it came out like this. Much smoother and easier to keep clean I hope.
    IMG_8788R.JPG
    I now wish I had used black fittings for this but I will go with the blue for now.
    IMG_8789R.JPG
    The hose routing.
    IMG_8790R.JPG
    I used a couple of clamps to hold the oil line away from the header.
    That is all temporary wiring .
    IMG_8791R.JPG
    As I think I showed earlier the hose out of the pan is way too close to the starter but will work.
    IMG_8795R.JPG
    Finished!
    Glass Install:
    IMG_8781R.JPG
    My Buddy Jeff came over today and helped me install the glass. We prepped the area with some foam packaging material and masking tape. We didn't know how rambunctious we would get and how many tools might get dropped in the process. This was my first attempt at installing glass other than helping Jeff with a Mustang window a few months ago. We didn't get many pictures because it took both of us to put the gasket on the glass and one guy inside the car holding the glass while the other pulled the rope to pull the gasket over the body flange.
    IMG_8793R.JPG
    Here are the tools we used. I bought the rope tool and the ball ended tool from Bob Drake. I didn't use the ball tool very much because I was afraid I would break the glass with it. The rope tool itself was of no use to me but the nylon rope worked very well. The yellow resin tools were very handy for moving the rubber gasket around. The spray on glass cleaner is very good lubricator and leaves no residue when you are finished.
    IMG_8783R.JPG
    Each of the Bob Drake rubber seals came with a template sheet. It says to make sure your glass fits inside the lines.
    IMG_8784R.JPG
    None of the 6 panes of glass we installed matched these templates but all fit into the gaskets and the car without problems.
    IMG_8780R.JPG
    IMG_8782R.JPG
    I think we may have installed the front glass panes in the wrong order. I think you should install the PS side pane first as it's center gasket flange goes on the back side of the glass. While the DS gasket goes on the front side of the glass. We had a heck of a time getting the gaskets reversed.
    IMG_8787R.JPG
    So there it is, I should have no bugs in my teeth on the first test drive..... It took about 4 hours for us rookies to install the glass. I bought the glass from Bob's Classic glass in Eugene Oregon. The price seemed fair and so far it all fits and has not cracked.
    IMG_8785R.JPG
    I am in the process of installing the door glass now. More on that later.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Sep 3, 2015
  3. Looking great.
     
  4. The 39 guy
    Joined: Nov 5, 2010
    Posts: 3,523

    The 39 guy
    Member

    We have been busy with some wiring lately. It is like everything else. You think it will take a coupe of days but might take a couple of months to do.
    IMG_8895R.JPG
    I installed this 1/4 inch rolled round sock with some metal and rubber clamps to attach wires too that will be going across the car.
    IMG_8896R.JPG
    just another view of the bar before it gets crowded with wire.
    IMG_8906R.JPG
    Looks a mess now but you can see the cross bar in use. For a simple old school looking build it sure seems like things are getting complicated and the space quite full of hardware.
    IMG_8901R.JPG
    The battery is mounted in what will be a storage space below the package tray.
    IMG_8897R.JPG
    I invested way too many hours into making these battery hold down clamps.
    IMG_8898R.JPG
    The clamps consist of 1/2"thick 3/4" wide aluminum bar tapped for 1/4"x 20 thread. I threaded 1/4 inch bolts up from the underside of the floor through the 1/2' spacer plate. The hold down plates were made from 1/16" aluminum plate slip over the exposed thread of the bolt. I found these plastic wing nuts with threaded brass inserts at the hardware store to finish the project off.
    IMG_8903R.JPG
    Don donated some 1/0 welder wire to bring the 12 volt current to the engine bay. A couple of jumper terminals were installed on top of the frame rail and # 4 wire was run from there to the starter. That little black box contains the 175 amp fuse for the fuse panel.
    IMG_8905R.JPG
    The heater install is finally finished( I think) . You can see the 12 to 6 volt reducer (gold gizmo) at the top of the heater. I found this double 12 volt outlet and installed it on the cover plate.
     
    kidcampbell71 likes this.
  5. Keep posting! I'm at the precipice of wiring my 40, and I'm scared to death!
     
  6. Dan,the American Autowire kit is as easy as it gets,everything you will need is includes with color diagrams for each step of the way. HRP
     
    barryvanhook and Dan Hay like this.
  7. n847
    Joined: Apr 22, 2010
    Posts: 2,724

    n847
    Member

    Very nice work here!
     
  8. 19Fordy
    Joined: May 17, 2003
    Posts: 8,016

    19Fordy
    Member

    Boy, you are doing a fantastic job.:)
    Thanks for posting.
    It's cool that you have a 40 DeLuxe dash with Standard gauge cluster.
     
  9. The 39 guy
    Joined: Nov 5, 2010
    Posts: 3,523

    The 39 guy
    Member

    IMG_8917R.JPG
    The dash is almost ready to install. I do plan to put the chrome trim on the glove box. I just can't find the hinge for it yet and I want to have the hinge operational so that I can get the chrome strips to align with trim on both ends.

    IMG_8918R.JPG

    Dan, don't worry too much about the wiring, Just take it one circuit at a time and lay out a good plan.
    Thanks for the compliments n847 and 19FORTY!
     
  10. olscrounger
    Joined: Feb 23, 2008
    Posts: 4,770

    olscrounger
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Great job--watching with interest--may have an extra hinge somewhere if you need one
     
  11. The 39 guy
    Joined: Nov 5, 2010
    Posts: 3,523

    The 39 guy
    Member

    Thanks OLSCROUNGER! I will keep your hinge offer in mind. I am sure mine will show up in some obvious place now that I have quit looking for it......
    I installed the right side inner fender so I could hook up the rest of the heater hoses yesterday.
    IMG_8920R.JPG
    I needed a clamp to hold the hoses tight to the inner fender panel so I cut a 1 1/4" wide piece of 1/8" aluminum and clamped it in the vice with some 1/2" water pipe.
    IMG_8921R.JPG
    My trusty dead blow hammer was used to form the bends.
    IMG_8922R.JPG
    After some trimming and polishing it bolted right up. I raduised the edges so that they would not cut into the rubber hose. One thing I noticed is that the stock inner fender panel on the passenger side sticks into the wheel well quite a ways. The picture does not show it well but it looks like one should consider this if you are running wide tires or your wheels are offset to the inside.
    IMG_8923R.JPG
    The lines were inserted through some grommets into the engine bay.
    IMG_8924R.JPG
    I was hoping for a little better angle on this upper hose but it should work out alright.
    I used a similar inner fender panel routing on my 39 and it has worked well for several years now so I hope this works as well.
     
    kidcampbell71 and Dan Hay like this.
  12. Hamtown Al
    Joined: Jan 17, 2007
    Posts: 2,899

    Hamtown Al
    Member Emeritus
    1. Virginia HAMB(ers)

    I noticed a while back that the glove box hinge on a 46-48 Ford dash looked pretty familiar. I took it off and used it to secure my 40 Ford glove box door. Who would have thought? 46-48 dashes are a heck of a lot more plentiful and cheaper, too.
    Somebody needs to double check my findings but I'm pretty certain I'm remembering this correctly because it was suddenly so simple to find that dang 40 glove box hinge that I needed for a dash I bought that didn't come with the hinge. My luck doesn't usually run in that direction.;)
     
    Kan Kustom and Bam.inc like this.
  13. The 39 guy
    Joined: Nov 5, 2010
    Posts: 3,523

    The 39 guy
    Member

    Thanks Hamtown Al! I just went ahead and ordered a new hinge from BD. It fit without any modifications! Thats a switch from the usual reproduction items.
    I did this little project awhile ago. I wanted to block off the speaker frill so that the miscellaneous hardware behind it will not show.
    IMG_8932R.JPG
    I cut some 1/8" ABS plastic to the grill size.
    IMG_8930R.JPG
    It ABS was easy to work with. I gently massaged the ABS with my heat gun to get it to bend to the shape of the speaker grill.
    IMG_8933R.JPG
    I used some ultra black silicone to seal and glue the plastic to the grill.
    IMG_8931R.JPG
    The plastic has a slight texture to it and I am happy with the way it came out.
    IMG_8917R.JPG
    Still have not put the glove box trim on yet. I will get back to it later.
    IMG_8936R.JPG
    It doesn't show to well here but I put my labeler to use to name all of the switches under the dash.
    IMG_8937R.JPG
    Since the car will have overdrive and I will not be using an accelerator pedal switch we decided to use this micro switch which will activate a relay. That is a new reproduction stock shift knob.
    IMG_8946R.JPG
    I cut a groove in the end of shift lever.
    IMG_8940R.JPG
    IMG_8941R.JPG
    I didn't want to compromise any of the strength of the plastic knob. I did radius the the end of the knob a little though so the wire could exit the knob without being cut.
    IMG_8944R.JPG
    Soldering the small gauge wire was made easier with this handy fly tying gizmo. I use the smallest heat shrink tube I could find to insulate the wires.
    IMG_8947R.JPG
    You can see the micro switch sticking out of the end of the shift knob. It was secured with a two part epoxy as was the wire. The epoxy did not stick well to the wire so I will have to so I will have to try something else.
    IMG_8950R.JPG
    IMG_8967R.JPG
    Shifter is installed and the linkage is adjusted pretty close for now. I am anxious to test this system.
     
    Last edited: Sep 3, 2015
  14. The 39 guy
    Joined: Nov 5, 2010
    Posts: 3,523

    The 39 guy
    Member

    I made this small panel to mount in the trunk area. Power for the radio,trunk lights, radio amplifier and a 12 volt outlet will be drawn from the battery through a 60 amp maxi fuse. Provision is also made for this to be a ground Buss. The panel is made from 1/8" aluminum. it was all my HF break could do to bend this width of material.
    IMG_8971R.JPG


    IMG_8970R.JPG
    The little fuse block will hold 5 fuses.
    IMG_8972R.JPG

    IMG_8982R.JPG
    Why? Well I hate inline fuses. They just seem to add to the confusion when you are trying to trouble shoot a problem. we also had to run less wires to the trunk this way.

    IMG_8983R.JPG
    Accesses to this panel should be pretty easy. There will be an overhead (map light) in this area.
    I am starting to think I am boring you guys to death with details. Views seem to be dropping off and comments have dropped to about zero.
     
    36 ROKIT and Mr.Norton like this.
  15. The 39 guy
    Joined: Nov 5, 2010
    Posts: 3,523

    The 39 guy
    Member

    We have advanced to the point in the wiring process that the fenders had to be installed so we could wire up the lights. This is pretty exiting stuff since it has taken so long to get to this point. It is fun to see the car actually start to look like something other than a shell.

    We started with the back fenders. At the risk of further boring you with details here are some things I learned about the fender nuts.
    IMG_8956R.JPG
    I bought these original style fender nut gizmos from Bob Drake. I think you could easily put your fenders on using just nuts and bolts.But since I bought them I had to try to use them. Each nut assembly had to be bent a little in order to get them to insert into the body.
    IMG_8957R.JPG
    I had to cut away the Dynamat at each hole.
    IMG_8958R.JPG
    The nut is inserted from the outside.
    IMG_8959R.JPG
    I then had to tap them into place until the tabs could set into the rectangular slot.
    IMG_8960R.JPG
    IMG_8961R.JPG
    They set in pretty good . You have to tap the nut holes to clear the paint out of them.
    IMG_8962R.JPG
    We put some tape on to protect the paint.
    IMG_8968R.JPG
    The fenders went on pretty easy. Since I was unable to find a fender welting that matches this color I decided to use the stainless welting. I had used this stuff before so I new what I was getting into..... The stuff is a pain in the butt to bend. It keeps wanting to buckle. It took much longer to install the welting than it did the to install the fender. But it's all part of the fun right?
    IMG_8969R.JPG
    I am happy with the results so far. The tire seems to fit the fenderwell pretty good too.
    IMG_8973R.JPG
    Hopefully this will be the last time we see the front end of the car like this for awhile.
    IMG_8977R.JPG
    We started the front end assembly with the inner fenders. We had some interference between the shock mounts and the inner fenders so I loosened the shock mounts and will shim them out as need later.
    IMG_8978R.JPG
    Leaving the headlight buckets out is a good idea because it much easier to see and access the grill mounting bolts during the fender install.
    IMG_8979R.JPG
    Wheel clearance looks like it will be OK.
    IMG_8989R.JPG
    Another angle on the tire to fender clearance.
    IMG_8980R.JPG

    IMG_8985R.JPG

    IMG_8986R.JPG
    Here was a surprise I only had to elongate one hole in the cowl to get the hood to align with the fenders and grill!
    That may change as we tighten things down tomorrow with the welting in place. But so far it looks like all of the time we spent mocking this front end up months ago before painting is going to pay off.

    IMG_8987R.JPG
    Just another view.
    IMG_8988R.JPG
    One more just because it is fun to look at it this way.
     
    Hamtown Al, lowcoe, 36 ROKIT and 2 others like this.
  16. patterg2003
    Joined: Sep 21, 2014
    Posts: 864

    patterg2003

    Far from boring anyone to death. Your craftsmanship & attention to detail is impressive. It takes a lot of work to create a thread of this quality and it is appreciated. I have learned more looking over your shoulder than I could from any book. I bought a book on building the 40 Ford Coupe used for the road tour & one on fat fender Fords seeking the kind of details that you have put into this thread. Your work is very practical and subtle upgrades which fit the character of the car. The body repairs, trueing up of gaps & body lines, transmission, rear, fan shroud, heater, overdrive switch etc have shown & taught so much. I think those of us following this thread are patiently waiting to see whats next. Wiring is a challenge. I am just putting the last touches on our homebuilt airplane instrument panel and can empathize with the work. Once we get the panel to light up then close up the airplane, finish its paint then I can get on with my 40 Ford.
    Keep up the great work. Looking to see what you do for the interior & finally the grin of your first drive.
    all the best,
    Glenn
     
    i.rant, cptn60 and Kan Kustom like this.
  17. The 39 guy
    Joined: Nov 5, 2010
    Posts: 3,523

    The 39 guy
    Member

    Thanks Glenn those are kind words and I appreciate your interest in the project. I hope you do a thread on your convertible so I can look over your shoulder and follow along.

    Sam
     
    Kan Kustom likes this.
  18. okiedokie
    Joined: Jul 5, 2005
    Posts: 4,777

    okiedokie
    Member
    from Ok

    Never boring, always enlightening, certainly inspiring. Thanks again for taking the time to share with us.
     
    Kan Kustom likes this.
  19. The 39 guy
    Joined: Nov 5, 2010
    Posts: 3,523

    The 39 guy
    Member

    Thanks okiedokie! I am down to less than three weeks to get this thing on the road for it's first show, so I will be real busy for awhile. finding time to post may be difficult but I will keep taking pictures and hopefully catch up with the progress later on.
     
  20. W O W ! ! ! ! ! ! ( shaking my head while also thinking --> f#cking WOWWW !!! )
     
  21. falcongeorge
    Joined: Aug 26, 2010
    Posts: 18,341

    falcongeorge
    Member
    from BC

    Car is looking GREAT. I finally found a deal on a set of '56 starfires yesterday, took a while to find them...
     
  22. The 39 guy
    Joined: Nov 5, 2010
    Posts: 3,523

    The 39 guy
    Member

    Kidcampbell you have so many ways to color excitement I think it is a skill with you.... Thanks!

    Thanks Falcongeorge! A local HAMBER was showing off his EBAY find Starfires last Thursday....I think I have to get me some of those. I wish my wheels were genies. They are some of those multi pattern wheels but they will have to do for now.
     
    kidcampbell71 likes this.
  23. olscrounger
    Joined: Feb 23, 2008
    Posts: 4,770

    olscrounger
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    great job thus far
     
  24. falcongeorge
    Joined: Aug 26, 2010
    Posts: 18,341

    falcongeorge
    Member
    from BC

    I'll keep an eye out for you...
     
  25. Although I'm sitting up top in the cheap seats, I'm still tuned in too.!
    Yours is one of my fav. build threads, JUST BECAUSE of your innovation,
    attention to detail, and great photos.
    Really like your battery box and fuse panel setup!
     
    cptn60 likes this.
  26. The 39 guy
    Joined: Nov 5, 2010
    Posts: 3,523

    The 39 guy
    Member

    Thanks olscrounger and 36 ROKIT! olscrounger have you found a new 40 project yet?
     
  27. white64
    Joined: Sep 15, 2008
    Posts: 679

    white64
    Member
    from Maine

    Just in from the garage to see how you lifted the body and where on the body you placed your lift points. I can lift from my garage ceiling (have had a 38 Plymouth coupe and my A hanging from the rafters; makes my GF wicked nervous, I tell her, if it can hold a snow load of 2 feet or more a coupe body ain't nuthin...)

    I'm so glad you're ahead of my build I have yours to go by when I get stuck and need a solution. Just amazing... and inspirational!
     
    Last edited: Aug 31, 2015
  28. The 39 guy
    Joined: Nov 5, 2010
    Posts: 3,523

    The 39 guy
    Member

    Thanks white64, It is good to know that some of the posts are useful. I think the body weighs in at less than a thousand pounds bare. I was only using one ceiling pick point and that load was spread out over three trusses. The cheery picker was used in the back and allows the body to be moved around a limited amount.

    The system made it easy to lift the body under a controlled (safe) manor by just one person if necessary. It really was nice when doing the final install of the body to the frame as we could place the body in a hover mode just above the frame while we lined up the mounting points and installed the bushings.

    My shop buddy Don is off RVing again but I have been working away at the seemingly endless list of details that need to be done to get the car assembled. Every time I struggle with some little thing for hours to get it to fit, I think of how the original assemblers had had just a few moments to get each part installed on the car........
     
  29. The 39 guy
    Joined: Nov 5, 2010
    Posts: 3,523

    The 39 guy
    Member

    Here is a sight I never get tired of seeing as I approach the shop.

    IMG_9014R.JPG

    IMG_9009R.JPG
    Installed some more trim on the hood.
    IMG_9018R.JPG
    I managed to get the insulation and hardware installed in the doors.
    IMG_9016R.JPG
    They are now ready for installation.
    IMG_9020R.JPG
    The window garnish felt is installed too.
    IMG_9021R.JPG
    IMG_9007R.JPG
    I think I touched on this subject earlier but I will bring it up again here. My brand new 40 Ford door handle and latch mechanisms had a about a 5 degree downward tilt when installed. I corrected the problem by heating the square shank with my torch and twisting it up a little with a 12 inch crescent wrench.
    IMG_9008R.JPG
    To my surprise it worked and the handles are nice and straight.
    IMG_9012R.JPG
    I have been doing a little carpentry lately.
    IMG_9015R.JPG
    I used 3/4 by 1 1/2" and 3/4" x 3" oak and some 1/4" oak veneered plywood for this.
     
    Mr.Norton likes this.
  30. i.rant
    Joined: Nov 23, 2009
    Posts: 4,295

    i.rant
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. 1940 Ford

    Eagerly waiting for more,the details never bore me ,keep 'em coming as they make your build that much more interesting. Your ideas and thought process to solve the many glitches along the way are at the very core of what this hobby/ lifestyle is all about. :)
    I am curious as to why you chose not to paint the fender welting as it seems to hold up well these days.
     

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