I just picked up my car today everything came out great i'm just a little dissapointed in the way it shifts..1st to 2nd are ok but 2nd to 3rd takes to long, how do i go about adjusting it myself..I think this has something to do with thorttle adjustment right???,up by the carb...because this has no vaccum like a turbo 350..Oh i forget its in a 55 Packard with the stock packard 352 V8 they make an adpator kit for this swap....Thanks in advance...
welcome to the wonderful wacky world of mopar transmissions. I think there's a way to get them to work right, but with a combo like that it's gonna take some work. You'll need to make sure the linkage at the carb has the same throw as a stock Mopar setup, then you should be able to adjust it as shown in a Mopar shop manual. from my experience, you probably won't get it to shift as nice as a th350, but I'm sure the mopar guys will help you get it close.... let me know if you need some measurements, the 340/727 in my wife's dart was working ok last time I drove it last year sometime.
Thanks squirrel, So am i right ti think this is all done by the thorrtle linkage by the carb it looks to me that there is some nice shinny threads on my linkage that i painted black before it went to the trans shop...so do you think i can move that fowards or backwards a little and see what happens..Of course i will mark it before i do that.....Thanks again
if a trans shop installed the transmission, it's really their responsibilty to make it shift properly...at least that's how I see it.... Yeah, the linkage may need to be adjusted, or it may be set up wrong. The throttle lever on the tranny controls the shift points (with the help of the governer to tell the valve body how fast the car is going). You can experiment, as you mentioned keep track of where it was when you started out.
There ia also a band adjustment on the side of the case for the 2-3 shift. It has a square head with a jam nut on it. I forget the exact adjustment but it involves turning the screw in so many inch pounds and then turning it out @ 3 turns or 2 1/2 turns for 426 hemi cars. My manual that has all the info in it turned up missing. Hope this helps. Josh
First, did the trans shop service it (new filter & fluid)? If not then do so. Did they adjust the bands? If not then do so. Check your manuals, but I think they're supposed to have about 1/8" of play. Second, after doing the above then you can adjust the linkage. If it has the stock setup. you just loosen the lock bolt & slide the linkage back or forward to acheive the desired results. Adjust it a little & see where it shifts, & go from there. HTH, ~ Paul aka "Tha Driver" Easy on the Giggle Cream!
It's kind of hard steppng in here where we really don't know what was or wasn't done to your trans. There is a kick band adjustment on the driver (left) side of the transmission case, just behind where the front trany cooler line connects. Loosen the lock nut, and back it off several turns. Tighten the square adjusting bolt to 72 INCH pounds. Back off the adjusting bolt 2 turns on V8s, 2 1/2 turn on a slant 6. Hold the adjusting bolt in position and retighten the lock nut. Mopar has two different kick down set ups. The early ones were full throdle kick down, where you had to floor the gas to get the trans to down shift. They were around until about 70 or 71. The later versions were the part throdle kick down where the trans would down shift at about 1/2 full throdle. The reason I tell you this is because the kick down linkage is adjusted differently between the two versions. Often linkage setups and adjustments became a guessing game if everything wasn't as it should be. I've seen linkages swapped between the two setups, and I've even seen parts of both kinds cobeled together. To make matters worse, many of the early trans were converted to the part throdle kick down. All that said, both setups push the down shift lever towards the rear of the trans. If the trans seems to up shift (2nd-3rd) too slow, (or too harsh) there is probably too much pressure on the down shift lever, shorten the linkage just a little. This is deffinately a case where a little goes a long ways. Its better to sneek up on it. If the trans upshift is too fast, there may not be enough pressure on the kick down lever, you may need to lengthen the linkage. With a little playing around, a guy can usually get it dialed into shifting where he wants it to. Gene
I used to build trannies for a living at a 5 star Dodge dealer in Phoenix. There are 2 bands in a 727 (904 as well). The front band is your intermediate band (closest to your converter), and the rear band is your low-reverse band. I always adjusted the intermediate band to about 5/16" between the lever and the tip of the servo. Remember when you adjust your shift points, the longer the rod or cable, the longer the shift. You should shift from 1-2 at 20-25mph, and 2-3 at 30-35mph. This is under a normal load. If you need anymore help, feel free to PM me or post here. Jon
Thanks guys for all your help but i think this is beyond me..i was driving today and i noticed that when i came to a stop it was staying in 2nd gear sometimes and then sometimes it would go back down to 1st weird..To answer some question the trans is rebuilt and it shifted long wheni got it so i marked the rod up top with a miagic marker i moved it a little it seemed to shorten the shifting but then i noticed it wasnt going back down to first ..maybe i screwed something up so i put it back where it was and it still doesnt go down to 1st everytime i either have to put it back to nuetral then into drive to get it to start out in 1st agin...this sucks......................
Check out www.allpar.com for a very informative tranny section on the 727. Besides the band adjusts mentioned, you can also modify the valve body with a Trans-Go kit. The B & M kit is thought to be too harsh for the street.
I have a shift kit installed i dont know what type i can find out from the trans shop i wonder if thats why im having problems???
If you made a TV adjustment and it made it worse, and you went back to where you had it orig. then I would look at the valve body. I would take it back to the trans shop and hold a gun to thier heads and tell em to fix your ride right or there's gonna be trouble!!!!
Well thats what weird i actually made it better but after doing so the friggn trans wouldnt always go into 1st when coming to a stop weird...I think i have to go to the trans shop i just dont want to leave it again he'll have it forever and i just got it back after waiting a month....
Man, i'm sorry to hear that! If I were closer I would be over there right now helping you sort it out. When you mash the pedal does it kick down? Where does the car shift now (mph)? Any thunks from 1-2, 2-3? Anything unusual about it other than not going into 1st all the time?
Yeah i do wish you were closer i dont even want to drive it do to that i might hurt something...Well i can tell you this the gas pedal is hard as a rock, shift points 1st to 2nd are about 15 to 20 mph 2nd to 3rd might be 30 -35 mph and i have no passing gear if i floor it it doesnt down shift just stays in 3rd gear ... Thunks the ony thunk i have is when im driving it and it shifted from 1st to 2nd and im waiting for it to go into 3rd and it never seems like its going to go in i let up on the gas then clunk 3rd gear....
Honestly it sounds like you have TO much TV. If it were me, I would shorten your rod. Count the number of turns or something to that effect, and slowly work it back out. Is your pedal hard because the kickdown rod is taunt against the carb, or is it kinda floppin around in there? Lets fix this thing TODAY!
Well to be honest with with the linkage doesnt seem to have any binding issue's just the pedal is hard now when you mean shorten the TV cable/rod do you mean the one near/on the carb which way would be shorting it...toward the front of the car or back near the firewall???i brought it back near the fire wall and the carb idle was way to high and it was actually pulling the thorttle and it had no adjustment..to bring the idle back down...this is confusing....
Hey buckeye_01 , dont know if you tried sending me a PM but if you want to try my email address [email protected] thanks...
hmmm...sounds like maybe the throw of the linkage is wrong. There's too much tv at light throttle, and not enough at full throttle.
I have a '74 Dodge Sportsman van with a 318, 2 barrell Carter Carb, and 3.55 rear differential. Under very light acceleration or downhill acceleration ONLY, it has a jerking "clunk" or "thunk" at the 2-3 shift. The 1-2 shift is just fine...smooth as silk. I recently had the transmission serviced and the throttle pressure slightly increased, hoping this would help the 2-3 "clunk", but no such luck. I'm beginning to wonder if the problem is even in the transmission at all...perhaps its somewhere in the drivetrain. There are no vibrations at any speed and no other noises or sounds. This 2-3 jerk/clunk is driving me crazy because most my driving is usually light and light-moderate acceleration. A passenger will always ask, "What in the world was that?" as it shifts from 2-3. Can anyone help or give some guidance as to how to best troubleshoot this annoying/embarrassing problem? All other transmission functions are normal. Under hard acceleration, the jerking "clunk" is not as pronounced, but as I said most of my driving is usually light acceleration and being from the old school, I prefer the shift to be as gentle, smooth and comfortable as possible. Thanks.
Early shifts and no kickdown = low throttle pressure, high shifts and early kickdown too much throttle pressure. Get this right and you should be ok. Band adjustment for second gear if not adjusted properly will either cause slip or harsh engagement. Most Torqies I have worked with will shift early but will still have WOT kickdown. Again it depends on the car's weight, engine torque, and what the governor to throttle pressure ratio is setup for.
your throttle pressure switch on the trans is prolly out of adjustment, at wot the lever on the trans should be all the way open. if not it will ruin the transmission ,the linkage can be a pain if swapping around motors and trans. swapped a 340 ,727 into a ot 6 cly dart earlier in the year and used a cable linkage from mancini racing had good directions and pretty simple to setup. ther are also bands that can be adjusted with the pan off. i think i still have a bunch of stuff on another computer if you want i can look and get it to you if i still got it.
Vacuum sucks Kustom, take some pics of the carb and kickdown-linkage setup. Also take measurement how far from the throttle-shaft center the kickdownlinkage is connected to. Of all the advice given, I've only seen squirrel point out a key issue which might be wrong here. If the kickdown-linkage is mounted too far offcenter (like mounted on a GM-style carb) 1-2 shifts might just be allright, but 3rd gear might be verywell delayed. Also, I've never encountered a 727 being stuck in 2nd gear after coming to a stop. Especially not during/because of KD-linkage adjustments. I would rather think there's some dirt in the valvebody orsomething causing this. I think you might have 2 different problems here. Therefore some pics would be nice if possible.
Theres a company that makes a throttle pressure cable kit for 727's that looks good for your problem, the company is Bourchillon I believe.
The not downshifting at a stop would most likely be a Governor problem. Could explain your upshift also. To grossly oversimplify, the Torqueflite shifts when governor pressure overcomes throttle pressure. Sounds like trash in the governor or a problem with it, Easy to fix, it's in the extension housing area.
The Jalopy Journal
