Picked up a 64 C10 last April, been working on it a little at a time. Hope to get on the road before LSR 17". Has a 283/TH350/307 heads that have been recently redone. I already did all brakes and hardware, new lines and all the front suspension. Rear has 3.73's. Plan on dual exhaust and eventually a larger block. Right now addressing a possible thread issue on the crank and I need to find the correct bolts for the motor mounts. Need to pull the Trans and have it looked at, not sure if it's in good running condition so I might as well get it rebuilt/overhaul while it's out. Here are a few pics... The crank, not sure where the key is? I went to turn the engine by hand and the bolt kept spinning. So I took the bolt out and the threads were chewed up pretty good on the end of the bolt. Actually it wasn't even a real crank bolt so I got to pick one up. Not sure but I sure hope the crank threads can be salvaged, I can't really see if they are damaged.I'm thinking of running a tap and then getting the correct bolt and maybe adding some lock tite and se if it will tighten up right. Also can anyone see a key in the pic? I can't. The key way is there but I'm not sure where its at? Maybe that was the problem...? The motor mounts aren't the typical style that comes up when searching 283 motor mounts. Im not sure if these are the correct ones. Right now they are not bolted directly to the block, I'm missing the center bolt that passes throught the mount to the block. Any suggestions guys? Thanks, Mark
I forgot to add a pic of the lower pulley. It just taps in but there isn't a notch in it for the key to sit in. So does just the key sit in the keyway ?
I could be wrong, but I have worked on a buddies 283. No key for dampner, and crank isn't drilled and tapped for a bolt or a key way. Its a press fit. But dampner is thin and one piece. More a pulley. No outer ring.
The key is in the crank, the keyway on the crank, it does not extend past the end of the crank. I think they used two separate, short keys on them? it's been a while! fortunately we have google, here's a picture of the end of a crank that got tore up, it's pretty common on 283s, especially when someone sticks a huge pulley on it to run aftermarket AC. (that pulley is not an original Chevy part, they were stamped steel, not cast)
Thank you very much for the information. In your opinion should I just try getting the correct bolt and after running a tap to clean the threads add some loc-tite and see if it bites down enough to turn the crank by hand?
Also I forgot to add I wouldn't object to running the correct pulley if I could locate one. That pulley has several grooves that I won't be utilizing other than the water pump and alternator. If anyone should want to part with a correct pulley please let me know. Thanks, Mark
That engine did not come with a threaded hole for a bolt, so whatever bolt hole is in there, is not really "correct". But later engines use a fine thread 7/16" bolt, which is probably what you want to use (if the hole it not buggered too much). http://www.camarocentral.com/1967_1968_Crankshaft_Pulley_Small_Block_327_350_p/enc-127.htm
I have found some old threads and from what Ive read the balancer is pressed on. Wow I didn't realize that they were made without a bolt going to the crankshaft. The third picture from the top, if you look at the bottom by the crescent you can see the bolt I took out of there. It's threads were chewed up pretty good. I know the pulley has three bolts that bolt to the "balancer" if you can call it that. So out of curiosity if I wanted to turn the engine by hand and there was no center bolt on the crank (by design) I would just have to turn it on one of the 3 pulley bolts? I will pick up a 7/16 fine like you suggested. Thanks, Mark
I made a plate that bolts to the 3 holes in the balancer, and welded a nut to the center so that I can turn the motor either direction.. There are also sockets available that fit to the key, so that you can rotate motor without the balancer installed.
A "strap wrench" should work to turn the engine over once you get a new key in the crank, even easier if spark plugs are removed. You may think they are too much money just for this job but you'd be surprised what they can be good for down the road. Crank rotating specific tools (socket) are only good for that. Could possibly find a reasonably priced strap wrench at HD or Lowes.
Appreciate the suggestion. I will look into them. I did pull all the plugs and I think the key may still be good. I had someone hold the balancer by inserting a screwdriver in two different holes and I tried moving the flex plate. When they held it with pressure the plate would not turn. Upon release it would move. Not sure if this correct thinking but I was just trying to figure things out. -Mark
I usually thread three bolts (3/8" fine thread) into the damper, and use a pry bar to turn the crank. If the damper comes off easily, then it's a problem. If you have to work hard to remove it, using the proper puller, then the press fit is fine, and the key is probably fine.
Not sure the reason for turning over the engine. I guess I should have said that if the "strap wrench" strap is long enough, the engine can be turned over with the balancer installed. Turning it over by the crank snout only, the strap will grip better with the key in place. Due to their design, they do have to be oriented correctly to work right, but you can turn over the engine CW or CCW. The strap on this wrench is only long enough if used with the balancer removed.
The small journal 283 and 327 engines as far as I know none where ever drilled for a bolt to hold the harmonic balancer on. The cast cranks where pretty easy to drill and tap. The steel crank was a bit more difficult. I used a masonry bit. Any small journal that sheds its balancer is trying to tell you something. What it is saying is there is a balance problem. Things like a broken piston skirt ect. or some accessory pulleys out of alighnment,bent or out of balance. I think in your situation I would try and find a stud that would screw into the existing threads. And Loctite it in there. then you could tighten the fine thread end with a nut and washer.
Old Wolf, Thanks for chimimng in here, your advice has been noted. Hopefully I won't have to experience the dampener coming loose. What happened was I went to turn the engine by hand and the bolt on the crank kept spinning which had me puzzeled? I wasn't sure why it would spin. Turns out as you stated a bolt actually doesn't belong there. The dampener is pressed on and the pulley is held in place by three bolts. Here is a picture of the dampener. I have never actually owned a 283 before much less an early block so I was curious why I could not see a key. Squirrel explained to me the key ends on the end of the crank and does not extend any further. Thanks to everyone for your help and knowledge. I like to learn as much as I can get.More progress and pics to come....
You have a "hub" rather than a true balancer or dampener; some 283's came with them, others with a small dampener (small compared to more modern engines anyway). Someone has drilled a retaining bolt hole for the hub/balancer/dampener, and I personally would't try using that bolt to turn the engine over. If you break that bolt off, you'll be right back here asking how to remove the broken bolt. You have the 3 bolts used to attach the pulley, so use them and a bar wedged against them. It may be slower, but you won't break the bolt off. And don't use the bolt to try and "pull" the hub on; same thing, you don't want to break the bolt off in the crank. If you're going to be rebuilding the 283, then swap to some better heads; chances are, the 307 heads have fairly large combustion chambers that will just drop your compression ratio on a 283. Some Power Pack 265/283/early 327 heads or 601/416 casting number 305 heads will give you a little more CR than the 307's. Your truck looks to be in pretty good shape; a good project for sure. Good luck meeting your deadline and making it to LSR 17. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.
Butch, Thanks for the information, it's greatly appreciated. I have heard of the power pack heads but haven't had any luck in finding them. Definitely will keep all the heads you suggested in mind! -Mark
A good friend of mine came over and we lifted the engine a tad with the hoist. Hit the mounts bolted in. I ended up using a couple of 7/16 (14) coarse 1 and a 1/4 on length bolts. Also got the trans mount and crossmember mounted in place. I'm still gonna pull the trans but just wanted to make sure all would line up. Ended working into the early morning in the garage. Pretty much got it all buttoned up. Just need to add spark plus wires, coolant and oil. Hopefully she will fire up on my next day off. So next Friday will be the day to see how it goes.
Chevrolet did not use s crank bolt until the 350 came along and that was due to the crank breaking at the first journal. The bolt was installed to preload the crank and it stopped the breaking problem. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Andy, Thanks for the information. I like to learn as much as possible, especially about about issues like this. Had me puzzled there for a minute because the crank came like that with the bolt. Thanks, Mark
This is the book that I read about the crankshaft bolt in Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I believe you, Denny, that's just what I read in this book. Most of my experience is in large journal engines. Thanks for letting me know Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
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