Register now to get rid of these ads!

58-64 Chevy slip joint drive shafts.... Anyone here make them/use them?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by CURIOUS RASH, Aug 18, 2007.

  1. CURIOUS RASH
    Joined:
    Jun 2, 2002
    Posts:
    9,642
    Location:
    Verdigris, OK. (Tulsa)

    CURIOUS RASH Classified's Moderator

    Just rebuilt the rear end on Mama's 59 Biscayne and noted the carrier is whipped. AGAIN. It's low enough it spends most of it's time riding the bump stops. I've recently put OG springs back in the rear after hacking 1.5 rounds off so it sits a hair higher and doesn't sag as readily as it did with whatever springs were in it before.

    I'd like to entertain the slip joint/solid carrier avenue and see a dude on the bay selling them but...

    I just need some input. The thing is sporting a the350 that was in it when we got it. It has a slip yoke up front but the shaft seems a bit short so I may just replace the whole mess.

    Who knows what?
  2. Grumpy
    Joined:
    Jan 28, 2003
    Posts:
    2,530
    Location:
    NE Ohio

    Grumpy Member

    Hey Rash

    When I had the tranny rebuilt in the 59 Nomad I had last year, I took the shafts to a local place and had a slip-yoke put in the rear shaft. Similar to what S-10 truck have.

    He redid both shafts, new carrier bearing, and the slipyoke install for $300.

    I was pleased and it had 4-5" of travel. And my wagon raised up above stock height, and would just about lay on the ground.
  3. chopperimpala
    Joined:
    Dec 22, 2004
    Posts:
    1,502
    Location:
    Spokane, Wa.

    chopperimpala Member

    The S-10 shaft IS THE WAY TO GO!!! I have them on 3 of my Impals (all juiced) and they work great! I didn't pay $300.00 but I have had lots of work done there and he may have given me a "good buddy" deal, just make sure you GET IT BALANCED!!!! Other than that, I say it is money well spent on ANY lowered X-framed car!!!! ...Ken
  4. Fraz
    Joined:
    Mar 3, 2001
    Posts:
    1,811
    Location:
    Dixon, MO

    Fraz Member

    Flippin thru Lowrider on my lunch break and noticed ads for industrial-strength carrier bearings for said cars, not cheap tho.
    Register now to get rid of these ads!

  5. B.A.KING
    Joined:
    Apr 6, 2005
    Posts:
    2,477
    Location:
    hartselle alabama

    B.A.KING Member

    an old CHEAP TRICK try filling the carrier bearing with a good name brand silicone(?) where the holes are on the outside,sort-of makes it a solid rubber incased bearing.got this from a old drag racer and inland empire?, sells a complete set up drive shafts,bearings and all.
  6. CURIOUS RASH
    Joined:
    Jun 2, 2002
    Posts:
    9,642
    Location:
    Verdigris, OK. (Tulsa)

    CURIOUS RASH Classified's Moderator

    Curing as we speak....
    The last one broke free of the mount though...
  7. Sam F.
    Joined:
    Mar 28, 2002
    Posts:
    4,226
    Location:
    AWESOME WORLD

    Sam F. BANNED

    i built a 64impala back in the mid 90's...at firts i kept ripping out carrier bearings with the hydros...10's in the back with 10 batterys...so after a few carrier bearings i took a front drive shaft from a fullsize 4X4 to my local drive shaft shop to have made into a slip yoke and then picked up a solid mount carrier bearing from COOL CARS,,,never ever had a problem afterwards,,,
  8. 1oldtimer
    Joined:
    Aug 21, 2003
    Posts:
    4,996
    Location:
    South Orange County, Ca.

    1oldtimer Member

    silicone doesn't work for long and i've welded tabs on the sides before (along with re-welding their weld)....still broke. the best way is to have a slip joint put in the rear half to relieve the pressure. i have 3 gm X frames and all run the slip joint, my elco has been running the same stock rubber center support (carrier) for about 8 years with no problems (my panel for 2 years and it's my daily). the driveline shop told me they leave about 3/4" of the yoke out of the trans, i have about 1 to 1 1/4" and it works fine. you can push the yoke in more if you have a little adjustment room on the carrier bearing. the 2 main things is to balance the whole shaft as one piece and to tighten the carrier bolts when the car is at suspension rest (not hanging). the yokes are different from the th350 and the pg/3spd. if you want new try here :
    www.iedls.com
    http://www.iedls.com/twopiece.html

    i think summit sells thier stuff also.
  9. sanmartin72
    Joined:
    Oct 29, 2006
    Posts:
    274
    Location:
    Porterville,California

    sanmartin72 Member

    Same thing here with my 64.

    We were tired of buying them so we used to hit the outer lip with a hammer on both sides and smash the rubber then wrap duct tape in a figure 8 over and over since we where broke beaners :D :D And there was four of us that did that until we found a place in LA that made solid one's and they where about $100.00 bucks back in 1990-92. :eek: By the way Still a broke beaner:eek:

    [​IMG]

    http://www.lowridermagazine.com/tech/0304lrm_hydraulics_driveshaft/photo_09.html

    Oh yeah
    Since i stuck a turbo 350 all i had already changed the yoke Didn't have to have it cut driveline. Slid right in useing my original driveline with a solid bearing and lasted till it was stolen!
    Martin
  10. chopperimpala
    Joined:
    Dec 22, 2004
    Posts:
    1,502
    Location:
    Spokane, Wa.

    chopperimpala Member

  11. sanmartin72
    Joined:
    Oct 29, 2006
    Posts:
    274
    Location:
    Porterville,California

    sanmartin72 Member

  12. chopperimpala
    Joined:
    Dec 22, 2004
    Posts:
    1,502
    Location:
    Spokane, Wa.

    chopperimpala Member

  13. B.A.KING
    Joined:
    Apr 6, 2005
    Posts:
    2,477
    Location:
    hartselle alabama

    B.A.KING Member

    this would make a great tech story,as i would love to see more info on the s-10 type drive shaft,what it takes to change it over?anybody got any pix.as i know this thing is a problem and a bitch to change. i know the silicone is a old way of doing it,but always open to knew/better ideas
  14. B.A.KING
    Joined:
    Apr 6, 2005
    Posts:
    2,477
    Location:
    hartselle alabama

    B.A.KING Member

    hey rash,did search on another forum and it was suggested to use a urathene sealer like a glass co would use, i may have to check in to that also.
  15. Andy
    Joined:
    Nov 17, 2002
    Posts:
    3,293
    Location:
    Kerrville, Texas

    Andy Member

    I can't understand how people can have so much trouble with the drive shafts!!!. I bought a 60 Chevy new in late 59. I had 200,000 miles on it in 10years. Ended with 360,000 on it , Had 283-270hp, 327-375hp, 327-275 hp engines in it. I broke one axle. I replaced the center support once. I ran 3.70 and 4.56 gears in it so the shaft was really turning. I was very carful with tightening the center support with the load on the rear wheels. I had the driveshaft out countless times changing transmissions and clutches. I am mistified that people want to change what I found trouble free??
  16. Sam F.
    Joined:
    Mar 28, 2002
    Posts:
    4,226
    Location:
    AWESOME WORLD

    Sam F. BANNED


    was your car lowered?
  17. CURIOUS RASH
    Joined:
    Jun 2, 2002
    Posts:
    9,642
    Location:
    Verdigris, OK. (Tulsa)

    CURIOUS RASH Classified's Moderator

    That's the question right there.

    Plus, they don't make things like they used to and I can take one of these "new" carrier bearings and tear the center out by hand. How the hell is that gonna put up with the rigors of Oklahoma streets?

    I went looking for urethane last night as I've worked with it before and it just seemed that it would be optimum, even better than silicone.

    Couldn't find any at 8:30 on a Saturday night in Claremore so I settled for silicone.

    It will last until I can settle on a slip joint and solid carrier.

    Just have to figure out who has the right quality. At the right price.
  18. Andy
    Joined:
    Nov 17, 2002
    Posts:
    3,293
    Location:
    Kerrville, Texas

    Andy Member

    It was for the first 100,000. I still have the straps that held the springs together. Then the up in back was the current style and the straps went in the box.
  19. DeucePhaeton
    Joined:
    Sep 10, 2003
    Posts:
    960
    Location:
    Grand Ledge, MI

    DeucePhaeton Member

    I read years ago in I think Super Chevy Magazine that they used an A car (Malibu) wagon driveshaft with a 12 bolt rear and it was a bolt in. That was maybe 20-25 years ago in the mag. Eliminated the carrier altogether and it was with a TH350 Trans too. Might sight down the drive line to see if you could just run a 1 piece shaft.
  20. Gambino_Kustoms
    Joined:
    Oct 14, 2005
    Posts:
    6,554
    Location:
    koolsville U.S.A.

    Gambino_Kustoms Alliance Vendor

    south bay drive line
  21. CURIOUS RASH
    Joined:
    Jun 2, 2002
    Posts:
    9,642
    Location:
    Verdigris, OK. (Tulsa)

    CURIOUS RASH Classified's Moderator

    I'm guessing that the S-10 shaft mentioned must be the forward shaft?

    What mods does it take? Same U-joints? shortened? lengthened?
  22. Just take your two existing shafts to the driveline place, assuming your front and rear are the correct length, and tell them you want a slip yoke added to the rear shaft. Most have new slip yokes in stock and can use your existing rear shaft, or it is a simple tubing replacement. I did this on my 59 El Camino, while at the same time shortened the front shaft since I had converted to a 700R4 trans.

    By adding the slip yoke to the rear, it takes the movement away from the carrier bearing having to slide back and forth. That is what makes the rubber break.
  23. CURIOUS RASH
    Joined:
    Jun 2, 2002
    Posts:
    9,642
    Location:
    Verdigris, OK. (Tulsa)

    CURIOUS RASH Classified's Moderator


    I went this route. Nearly. I didn't have time to yank the whole mess from the car again Sunday night so I grabbed up another back section I had and took it for the slip-yoke on Monday morning.

    Yes, I knew the whole assembly wouldn't be balanced but figured I'd get away with it.

    Got it done, took it home and attached it to the front shaft. I somehow split the front yoke on the front shaft in half where the cap slides in. Not sure how. It seemed to do it REAL easy.

    So I wound up taking the whole mess back in anyway, had a new front yoke put on AND THEN the whole thing balanced.

    Pretty sure it was the car Gods telling me to slow down and do it right.

    They did an excellent job with it too. They being Inland Truck Parts in Tulsa. Dropped it off on Monday at 8:30, it was ready at 4:30. Just as they said it would be and at the price I was quoted. Same deal on day two. Hard to find anyone who will do what they say, when they say and at the price they said... They barely even laughed at me when I came back with the busted part. :D


    Back in the shop. I installed the new assembly. It fits perfect. I figure about 3" of travel and I was able to adjust everything to where the carrier is happy, and the slip is dead center at ride height with a loaded trunk.

    In the spirit of doing things the right way, I noted that the floor pan under the seat was now dangerously close to the shiny new grease zerk so I yanked out the seats, rolled down the windows and started cutting. One long slit right up the center of what would be the tunnel, if there was one, and a few strategically placed slits left and right from there to relieve it where the floor contours and I was able to reform the existing metal to create most of a tunnel. I super duper double dog suck at welding but I managed to get enough sticky metal to hang on. I do have a great grinder. :D

    Tonight I will cut the patch to fill in what is still open and I'm done with that mess.

    Eventually this car will need the rear floor pans and seat pans replaced. I'll just make a nicely rounded tunnel for it at that time...

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2013 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.