57 inline 6 235..Popping,Sputtering

Special cudos to Rickybop. He was BIG help to you. I noticed you said you had carb adj. screw 1/3 out. More common way to relate to that adjustment is turns out. Whenever you mess with a needle adjustment, look at where the screwdriver slot is pointing. Turn half turn in at a time counting how many turns til in all the way. (NOT TIGHT, just bottomed out.) Write it down, so you can count back out to that point again, if you need to. When someone says start at 1.5 or two and a half turns out, that is what they mean. Hope that helps someone.

A lot went on here, and it's always difficult to get a cat back in a bag. Two things to remember: If you have points, you better have a good condenser. If your rig is negative ground, the distributor connects to the coil on the negative side. Keyed power to the + side. I have found a couple of cars that would run, but barely, wired opposite. Who knew they would even run.

Now I have to find another reason not to get anything done. Wonder if the internet is open?

 

SUPER SWEET, Sloppy!!!

I'm glad it all got handled.

Congratulations, on a job well done!!!

Ricky is my hero!

 

When you get a chance, give us a picture of the car we've been working on. Also, maybe we should see if there is a Doctors forum that they need some help on.

 

Here are a couple pics...Also see my Profile for more pics...

 

Hell Ya!!!

 

Dam Right... Ricks Da BomB..

 

That was great!! Awesome thread.
Sweet you guys.


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congrats sloppy, cool car..
glad to help put her back onthe road

 

To ease your future tune ups, When you pick up your timing light pick up a dwell meter also. With these tools you can fine tune your car much better. It's also a good idea to keep a spare set of points and a condenser in your glove box as stated earlier in this thread. After you get used to tuning an old car you can do it in minutes not hours.
Great thread BTW seeing all who helped getting this car back on the road and running good. Diagnosing a bad running car on the interweb is not an easy task.
If I were you I would double check as to what lifters you have in there. If you have solids you could very well have a tight valve or three. With this in mind another good tool to have is an vacuum gauge. You can use one for tuning as well as diagnosing problems.

 

Yaaaaaaaay! A happy ending! Finally. Whew...I'm all worn out...lol. But I enjoyed it...mainly 'cause all you guys pitched in. We needed the additional brain-power and input. Some of you were pretty funny too...especially the first night. Like when Sloppy was ready for his first test-run, and we were all in anticipation. And firengine103 says, "Jeeez, my nipples are hard!" Lol!

I've said it before, and I'll say it again...and I'll probably keep on saying it...there's nothin' like people coming together to help. Teamwork is so cool. Thanks to all of you. I'm not gonna even try to name you all, but thanks to everyone who posted.

And jcmarz, I have an apology to make to you. I guess I did take you wrong. And I got a little pissy with you. I thought you were saying we should've had the "simple problem" already resolved. I went back and edited what I said...trying to mellow it out a bit...but you had already quoted me and told me not to "get my shorts in a knot". I deserved that. Thanks for not saying "panties"...lol. Anyway, sorry pal.

So, I guess we really put Sloppy through the ringer. I think his head must've been reeling at some points. We'd tell him something, and he'd come back and say, "Huh?" Lol! But as someone said, he learned a lot in a short time. He's still got more work to do on his Chevy, but I think we gave him a good start.

Three cheers for the Hamb.

I don't know if Sloppy is gonna continue this thread or not. It is gettin' really long. I've been talking with him through PMs, but I'm sure he's gonna need further help from you guys. Maybe he oughta start a new thread if he needs more assistance. One thing I learned ...his name. I got tired of calling him "Sloppy"...lol. His name is Chris.

Nice lookin' Chevy, Chris! Looks real solid.
Maybe go ahead and start a new thread if you get in a bind.

I will address Chris's statement that the engine still seems to run a little rough "only at idle", and a couple particulars about the carburetors on these old Chevys. Stuff I've learned the hard way. There are probably still some existing issues and fine tuning he'll have to do, so I'm sure it's not only a carburetor problem. Actually, I'm not 100% sure yet that it's the carb at all. But when dealing with the old stovebolts, and somebody says it runs rough "only at idle", this is what comes to my mind.

Chris, one thing about those early 2G carbs, is that the base is so small. Actually, the small base is not a big problem in itself, but if you take off the carb and look at the bottom of the base, you'll see that there are a couple areas where the mating surface...and the gasket itself...is really narrow. I'm talkin' like 1/8"....jeeez. That gives it plenty of chance to leak...a vacuum leak...if everything isn't just right. The mating surface of the carb and the intake have to be nice and flat. So if someone scrapes on it too hard...especially on the carb...or gets too aggressive with sandpaper, the mating surfaces can get damaged. Also, the spacer and the gasket have to be in good condition and in the correct position. One of the issues, is that there's a very small hole to one side...maybe 3/32" diameter...in the bottom of the base of the carb. It goes way up inside. It's the source for the vacuum signal for the idle circuit. If it's blocked for some reason...dirt, or maybe someone used gasket sealer and accidentally plugged it, or if the gasket or spacer is installed backwards, the engine won't idle well, and probably not at all. Both the spacer and the gasket have a hole or slot that has to line up with the hole in the carb.

What usually happens in the instance of a small vacuum leak at the base, is whoever is tuning the engine will not realize the leak is present, and they'll compensate by adjusting the air/fuel mixture screw to a richer setting. Or worse yet...they'll adjust the choke to compensate! (closed too far) This will help the engine to idle, but the mixture is just too rich. And then the sparkplugs foul and things start to get worse...and more frustrating...and more frustrating! A veritable downward spiral to hell, it is!...lol.

Over and out.
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Awesome result from awesome HAMBsters;blessings on Ryan for getting it all happening.
I seem to recall, from many years past, that when adjusting inline tappets, when one set of valves was rocking, the set which was an equal distance from the center of the head was on compressionTDC. i.e.if # 5 was rocking, #2 was on comp. tdc. If # 3 was rocking, #4 was on comp.tdc.
If that is incorrect, you may 'shoot me down', sort of.
Three cheers for Rick!
Davo.

 

Chris, When I saw pics of your car, my memory shot back to my Dad's work car. I learned to drive in it and it was THE ONLY car he would let me use to date in (before I got my 48 Ford). His was a two tone, vomit green and rust. I learned the hard way not to keep backing up real fast, double clutching it into 1st gear, revving it, and dumping the clutch. It WOULD smoke one tire til I shifted, and sure that was fun, til I had to tow it home one day with the left axle and wheel sticking out about a foot. My friends thought it was hilarious, but he didn't.

Have fun with your cars.

 

Awesome news!!